No. Maybe using Panasonic technology

Supposedly tech from Japan but in real life usage, since year 2010, it lasted abt 2 years or more for all my City. Maybe also depends on luck. Currently my PE also using it.

Even changing to other pads, it might still come back after a while. Mine does. Now getting louder. The pads at rough looks still have at least 50% left...

Used to ignore the screech sound (H-Line sound insulation lessen it in the cabin) but now getting more frequent and louder. Will have to re-check it when I change tyres somewhere next month.

Mudguard mechanic can pull it back easily. If kaki no patah, abt RM20-RM30 at most.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 22 2014, 11:32 AM

So its the rotor that is the cause?

The front one gap looks even smaller than my gap...stock.

Service now better to clear out any metal residue in engine oil. Then next time, service at 10K mileage ok.

He will be outstation during that period, either service now or going to exceed 5k.

With upgraded API to SN now some more.

No, 10W50 is too heavy for persona. 5W40 will be the most balance for high-speed and city drive combi. 5W40 is the default viscosity used by Proton for PE.

Walao eh....so long also you can dig it out...

Mmm....I really don't remember talking abt Cusco with the PAO.....can't even remember how I got that info...

I changed my post liao.....wiping all evidence...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 5 2014, 05:10 PM

Recently baru habis Raya....meaning before Raya, there's Ramadan with huge traffic jams all over. So go figure if you can maintain your fc during these period.

btw. can discuss FC if its a technical issue. Itu elephant cannot discuss FC with coz his car no FC, using hydro fusion technology using his elephant trunk....

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 6 2014, 04:24 PM

One is stock, one is not stock lor...

No idea. Hard to check out unless I change tyres.....now dragging the changing tyres period. Already should change but somehow I'm dragging it coz no time.

No money and tyres still got treads left (not hitting the min. 1.6mm indicator yet, very near). Last time when I'm loaded and not buying house, I change when its abt 3mm for optimum braking strength.

Now wait till min. 1.6mm, then only change. I practice 1-2 car distance liao instead of sticking to other cars rear especially night time.

I just got buttseks last week when driving Civic. I was waiting for traffic light to go green, so is the car behind me. Then he cakap cakap with daughter and either let go of brake or step on accelerator instead....rear bumper have fine line crack and I did not even notice it until morning, cialat since at night cannot see the fine line, so no ask payment and its late as well like last time when I buttseks ppl.

See....even tyres got full tread and full stop also accident, just my luck...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 7 2014, 04:26 PM

Why bother, just treat it as gunmetal coloured rims..

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 8 2014, 09:27 AM

Actually you don't really measure how long an engine oil can last by the colour of it. If its clear even after 5K, it could mean the engine oil is NOT doing one of its major tasks of cleaning your engine and suspending the contaminants in your engine oil. As a matter of fact, if its an older engine and it still looks almost golden at 5K, I would suspect it might not be cleaning then engine at all....where the heck are the contaminants....

If you use an GOOD engine oil and it turned black after 2K, it could be cleaning your DIRTY engine wondrously and suspending its contaminant in its oil.

Once it goes dark brown or near black, one of a way (not the only means) is to check if your engine oil is still watery. If its getting thicker or in worst case scenario, sticky like thick gravy, then CHANGE it immediately, its a goner. If its a used only in short time span, you either got yourself a extremely lousy lube, its a fake lube or you got bloody dirty engine.

Therefore a GOOD lube can turn dark brown/black after 2-3K sometimes and as long as its still watery, its doing its what an engine oil should do. Of course, if its celup brand or fake ones, no one can guarantee if its working even if its still watery.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 11 2014, 10:20 AM

You go eat your Cintan and die...

Why flush auto tranny at 20K mileage? No needed at all unless auto tranny got issue.

Only change fluid cukup. Balance atf fluid should be use to change steering fluid.

Mm...I changed all my full at 5K...

As I mentioned, if its a good branded lube, as long as it is still watery and its not due for change (addictive still there), lube colouring does not matter.

Anyway, like what Quazacolt did, only lab test can prove it....without the test, we can only take precaution either to change it early (takut mati -> me) or drag it out (poket kosong -> me too)...