If I'm not wrong, Amsoil SS is a true PAO/Ester synthetic, not the refined hydrocracked base stock. That is one reason why it can last longer.

However I think it also depends on driving conditions you're in. If I'm not wrong, Zen used it before, not sure if its SS, but since he mentioned true synthetic, it seems at least for him, I think, it does not agree with his PE engine. Ran out of juice at abt 8-9k mileage, engine performance degraded after that. Very expensive also. Some more although the lube can last, our stock filter could not last more than 10K.

Thanks for the report....send to US kah? Very far and troublesome lor...Tot you found a local UOA test lab..

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 10 2014, 03:57 PM

For a new car, unlikely tho. Maybe a leak somewhere.

No, he's the one who stole the paper for his kid...

The biggest issue is you're buying a Proton....

Yesterday, after leaving my car without starting for 10 days...cannot start.

Battery is still good as has left car up to 7-8 days without problem.

Called AAM and those guys are quite knowledgeable...mentioned engine lost compression where supposedly the piston or the ring whatever expanded with NO oil lubricating them (since 10 days).

Had to keep pumping the brake and alternate fuel accelerator. After quite a while, engine still cannot start but the grrr (trying to start) seems to be getting longer. Staff remove the air filter connecter to engine and actually pour in very small scoops of petrol directly into the engine (via the air duct). After quite a few start, managed to start the engine.

Mentioned one proton owner got same problem, don't want their help since under warranty, send to proton and ends up overhauling the engine pulak.

Wonder if force start this way will damage the engine or piston or not but they did manage to get it started.

btw, if someone knows about camber setting. My Civic FD rear right camber runs to -1.75 liao. Cannot adjust camber unless change the entire lower arm (that's the design if want to change camber)..

Is -1.75 for Civic FD stock setup still ok or not? Change to a RM400 local adjustable arm last time....but after only 1~1.5 years, kong. Had to change back to stock arm. Waste of money. Can change 1 tyre liao.

Don't know if other aftermarket arm good or not (HardRace, etc)? Or else can live with with -1.75 if not getting worse.

Thanks for the info. Solution seems simple and yet helps save a bundle that way besides the headache of new kits failing after some time.

For stock setup, at what range can the camber goes before it is deem necessary to switch to adjustable camber kit. It is so that I can monitor if the camber get running out to greater range before drastically affecting ride.

This is first time in my life kena the engine lost compression after leaving car for 10 days. Something abt vacuum and lack of oil in piston and piston or its ring kembang and sort of got stuck.

Anyway, driving 2 days liao. Seems ok. Mileage now 68k liao. Crossed my fingers, no issue with car for now.

Gonna change my tyres soon.

Still choosing between Goodyear Triplemax or Yoko C-Drive 2.

My NCT5 lasted almost 70k mileage. Maybe go back to Goodyear again. Both almost same price at RM195 and RM198 respectively.

Only 1 tyres hitting the min. 1.6mm. The other one abt 1.7-1.8. The rear, 1.8-1.9.

My city tyres last time lasted abt 55k and changed at abt 3mm tread. Now no money drag till minimum.

While NCT5 has been whacked left and right by lots of users, I myself felt it is actually a good lasting tyres for its price. A bit hard, noisy when tread goes below 60%, handling suffer noticeably below 50%. It is still manageable and acceptable grip for avg daily driver running on city and highway standard speed.

As you can see, it lasted till now BUT please don't do hard brake, hard brake sure slide one...

Ecopia entry, triplemax mid, cd2 mid performance but not lasting.

Alamak more choice...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 18 2014, 02:14 PM

Do outside at tyre shop especially if you have a trusted ones. Cheaper, faster and more efficient. No SC warranty for tyres and alignment anyway.

All cannot afford....

OEM....come with car.

Stock size, not all tyres got, most does not actually. I want only stock size.

So far limited to these few models and the price I got is Klang price. If I'm not wrong CD2 elsewhere is at least RM210 and above.

Teoh Brothers in Taman Sentosa. The price is good even against Kedai Papan (maybe papan sometimes a bit cheaper) but tyres and undercarriage service good. Got 1 mechanic specialize on alignment/balancing, etc.

Even kedai papan cheap, they're very busy thus lots of time cannot service you, alignment/thingy a bit cincai...

Found this shop got a few branch (sentosa is HQ) thus can get tyres at good rates as well. Last time I managed to get Hankook V12 at RM190 when even Papan selling at abt RM210 at the least.

Walaoeh.....how come so cheap unless its a 2 years and above tyres, Kedai Papan also cannot get that price. Its even cheaper than NCT5.

Mine also same since 45k. near 70K also. Mechanic mentioned a lot of proton also got same problem. Just leave it unless it get worse.

If really worry, then wipe clean and keep jalan for another 5 to 10K, see how bad is the leak. If still same, only dry dust, not wet with no detectable reduction in engine oil, I'll just leave it.