my room has 4 ceiling LED lamps, but luckily all can be switched off individually
my PC desk is all the way horizontally to the left, so I just need to switch off the one that shines directly on top of the monitor and the other one that is 7-8ft away from the monitor, 45° from the top

however u also need to keep ur expectations right because u may still be able to perceive low degree of raised blacks depending on ambient light conditions and reflections. the semi-gloss coating doesn't eliminate all reflections so don't expect exceptional result where if ur monitor is facing white wall, then some "raised black" due to reflection will definitely occur. it's still very good at handling reflection, but u don't get exceptional reflection handling like in Samsung S25 Ultra. it's definitely better than a lot of matte-coated LCD monitors incl my LG 27GL850 to say the least


I'm not using ClearType because the text clarity for 32" 4K QD-OLED is pretty good due to high PPI (27" 4K is even better)
the text fringing will be more prominent on 27" 1440p, so ur MO27Q2 will kena. depends on ur personal tolerance, u may need to turn on ClearType so that narrow texts will be bolder
for example, see FO27Q3 review on text clarity: https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/giga...o27q3#test_4264

depends if ur i1display is rated for calibrating up to 1000cd/m2 or not. do u own a calman software license? that's an expensive software. never heard of HCFR until today, last time I only calibrated with DisplayCAL instead.

anyway it's no longer worth it anymore. LCDs I calibrated them because LCD monitor profile often does not clamp their DCI-P3 to sRGB when viewing sRGB contents. so everything is oversaturated, so need to use DisplayCAL + my colorchecker pro plus to make a software side icc profile to properly clamp it down. but then when playing games they still oversaturated because games don't read icc profile (they needed 3DLUT instead and color corrected using reshade). but QD-OLED I don't bother anymore because it never oversaturates sRGB contents since they're below HDR spectrum. this is why I usually leave HDR always on and let Windows do everything.

plus if wanna die die follow proper 2.2 gamma curve also no use when ABL kicks in. only setting to ABL low will follow proper gamma 2.2. when ABL kicks in with med or high, it won't follow anymore since the panel dynamically adjusts the brightness based on the percentage of white in the window. then there's also issue with windows AutoHDR as well where it's not fully following 2.2 curve (it uses something called piecewise sRGB curve). then calibrating HDR + OLED is also pain in the ass. most usually u calibrate it for accurate sRGB only.

if working on contents that need color accuracy, then u do need to turn off HDR and set picture profile to sRGB. now OLED monitors ship with very accurate sRGB mode. no need to buy overpriced ProArt from Asus anymore

u keep it this way, ur gonna enjoy QD-OLED fully. no problem at all. since ur monitor is facing away from the window + smart light.

I agree with TFTCentral, but honestly no need to bother manually switching between SDR <-> HDR anymore. especially true if ur using the default HDR profile (which is the most accurate HDR400 profile). the washed out issue is not due to imbalanced gamma curve but instead
1. people were used to the unclamped DCI-P3 color from wide gamut LCD monitors this past decade when viewing sRGB contents, not knowing that it's inaccurate. to know it, u had to have calibrated the monitor targeting sRGB, to actually understand what correct sRGB actually look like. for example if u compare between the reddest red in DCI-P3 with the reddest red in sRGB, u will notice that the reddest red in sRGB is more orange than DCI-P3.
2. HDR is messed up when viewing SDR contents. usually caused by driver issues because if SDR contents become HDR, it'll become super washed out. and vice versa. for example, if u turn on HDR on LG 27G(L, N, P etc.)850, which is not capable of showing HDR yet it allows games and software to read it as HDR capable monitor, and they transmit HDR signals into the monitor and the monitor show as SDR contents, what happens? washed out. I knew because I faced this issue on my 27GL850 before.

if don't trust, try setting up AutoHDR properly with Windows HDR Calibration. select ur fav HDR profile (preferably either the most accurate HDR400 profile or just go gung-ho with HDR Peak 1000 profile), then calibrate the HDR with the said tool.
then load this page: https://lcdtech.info/en/tests/dynamic.range.banding.htm
now win+alt+b to turn off HDR and now ur in SDR profile. go to OSD and look for sRGB profile and set it to that. now switch between HDR <-> SDR and tell the difference.

thx, lots of good info will be digesting it slowly especially for the font.

yeah thats a lot of lighting u got there. for myself i try to keep it simple, though if i want to improve, i need to add more smart led light bulbs that can adjust the brightness. but tbh i dont really need to go that far. i'm quite ok with my lighting. but for the monitor as long as its not detrimental then i dont need to do much more





oo the monitor arrived but...... it was hell....


ok here is the story




first thing i did was obviously record opening the box (if later got problem and got finger pointing for refund or whatever....)

then first problem. trying to add the arm mount. i think the screws for it were too long because when i try screw further it felt like it hit a dead end. i dont dare force screw once that happened cause may damage monitor. so i gave up on the arm mount for now and will contact the seller to ask about this issue. maybe i need a shorter screw or something for this model. i was using the one for my previous msi ips no problem though.


next problem (yes there is more ). to my shock when i plug in all the cables from monitor to pc, and power on, i see the monitor is powering on, but nothing. say display port no signal. now i had to troubleshoot......

remember my pc went offline for many weeks cause my msi ips monitor up and died only 1 year old so during that time i was cleaning my pc, i suspect i might have knocked something (not sure).

so..... i look at the side window where the motherboard lights flashing. got orange color. this usually mean maybe ram issue. so my first thought is the seating. so i use a pair of gloves (cause there is a lot of electricty i get shocked otherwise. yes i did turn off the power but u know electric still flow hasnt dissipate)

so checked all the important cables all properly connected, and tried to reseat the ram WITHOUT taking out the cpu cooler (i can but its a bit of a hassle remove then reinstall so rather not).

then i boot up, and i got the asus bios screen for motherboard. said it post fail a few times ask me to adjust the setting. but i just reboot and it booted fine after that.

so at this point now i got a working pc again and can begin testing monitor



another experiment i tried.

i got display port cable from monitor to the desktop pc. AND simultaneously i got the HDMI cable from monitor also to the PC.

So i wanted to test change input from DP to hdmi. When i tried that, it was like no signal, then it switch back to DP. whats that about? faulty cable? or not suppose to use it like that?



still doing more testing. Firstly the colors look off. looks a bit red tint warm. so something is off. My first sus was maybe it was loading my previous monitor icm, but when i checked it wasnt.

so will do more setting adjustments following the youtubes i posted this thread earlier.

whats kewl about this gigabyte monitor, it came with a sheet of paper telling you it was precalibrated right from the factory and it gives you some info.

yeah sure, the pros tell u, u need to recalibrate every month because the things change. but its better than nothing.



another thing i noticed, why the fuk was it on eco mode as a default so i turned that shit off.

pc monitors used custom setting. but my thinking is, if its factory calibrated already, why not just use the picture > srgb. yes it does lock ur setting except brightness. but wasnt it factory calibrated so u dont need to change all that? or am i mistaken?

i will get around to the lagom to check the banding tests and all that, only if i find it off will i consider using the custom setting to unlock so i can make those adjustments by eye (since no appropriate calibrator )

yeah i know the rule, wait 30 minutes or a bit longer before trying to make some changes. im just changing some stuff that dont need to wait for that.





havent finished calibrating yet, but using firefox at 2k 1440p reading the lowyat forum text. its small but readable. so for myself text clarity is good enough. so this whole whinging and causing headaches, maybe it will just i didnt notice yet. but looks alright to me so far. and my eye sight isnt the best.

so what i did was scroll to zoom 150% and now this is much more comfortable for my reading

*update

hm...

so this is what i set

1. enabled free sync (monitor, radeon app settings, and windows settings for vrr)

2. in radeon app i set a hard cap of 236. why? because i worry if it hits 240 it may have issues. so someone said to cap it slightly under, and u wont have that issue. it will be much more stable. so a few hz difference wont make any big issue i dont think and it solves one possible issue.

3. in monitor setting

- gaming - free sync premium pro enabled

- picture custom > color temp natural.

color space native


* for the picture > custom i tried not to change the individual stuff and try use presets hoping that i get a good factory pre-calibrated setting without messing things up cause i dont have a calibrator. i know if i wanted proper srgb, then sticking to the srgb mode that locks you out of lots of these stuff is the safest choice, but i went with the settings i mentioned and looks quite nice to me. it's something that isn't grossly sickening vibrant but not too dull either. good balance to my eyes

- display input : DP

- system audio mute ON, volume 0. I turned off my own speaker turn on youtube, no sound. i turn on my speaker now got sound. i was testing that the monitor speaker was off. i was wondering why youtube so quiet, its probably cause it was using the monitor speakers set at 30 volume



since i am now using oled, i thought it a good idea to change the taskbar to stay hidden unless hover over, to avoid burn in risk.



passed the dead pixels test



This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Aug 14 2025, 10:27 PM

just a rough test.

my face roughly 1 meter away from the screen (when i got the arm stand issue fixed ill have it positioned further away). i'm looking at it at night with no other sources of lighting. i dont see any reflection

i also test total black using this
https://darkblackscreen.com/


full screen. PURE black. NO MAGENTA, nothing that looks odd. BYE BYE IPS white glow. pure true black goodness

keep in mind this is a qd oled glossy with anti reflective (so semi glossy?). i dont see the magenta effect people were complaining about. And i even have edifier qr65 speakers with lighting on them but they are off to the side and the lighting from that doesnt affect the monitor.

Maybe it will be different during the day when there is more bright light sources all over. will check then.


But at night its fine.


for additional experiment i turned on my standlight with the brightness set at 57% and although not blatantly pointing directly at the monitor, its position in the general direction to it so i have a light source so it's not too dark at night.

the result, still total black, no magenta nothing weird.

so satisfied with this night test result






then next i turn on the normal ceiling lighting now if very well lighted as you would expect typically. the ceiling light there are 2 coming from different off to the side directions.

then i did the black screen and white screen test. yes i can see reflections in the black screen, but it's not too bad. i can get away just watching stuff and not get too distracted by it. also i don't particularly notice any magenta effect. on the true black full screen, it just looks black to me though i do see some light trying to ruin that total black but its not too distracting for me for the experience.


then i try watch overlord anime, no distractions at all, can enjoy without issue.


basically with the ceiling lights at night on full artificial light and brightness, no issue for viewing is my own conclusion *ymmv.



the only time so far i manage to cause an issue, was using my smartphone flash light and point it directly at the monitor, then you can start seeing more of the reflections (this is with ceiling lights off). so someone has to really go out of their way to be a bastard before you start noticing issues.

maybe daytime will be something similar to an extent, i dont know yet, will have to find out tomorrow.



going through the tests to verify
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/contrast.php



ufo blur test
https://www.testufo.com/framerates#count=4&...nd=none&pps=960


ok i can now appreciate 240hz when doing this test. for myself its very noticeable the difference between 240fps and 120 fps. but for me 240fps seems good enuff can't imagine need more than that tbh.


*update

testing watching anime.

i dont know why but for overlord season 2 episode 9 @ 1:10 around there, when the scene pans side ways, there is some ugly blurry distortion in the video. i tried checking from other sources they all had the same issue. i also noticed this on my previous ips monitor as well.

so i was experimenting with the radeon setting for mpv, to toggle on/off fluid motion frame with anti lag. with it enabled, the issue goes away. without it, it has that ugly blurry distracting effect that is particularly apparent during panning scenes (normally horizontal panning do i notice this sometimes).

i donno what that is, but this different monitor has it too. so i sus the issue is to do with the video source, or something.



*update

using the default monitor stand (due to arm mount issue). the monitor stand is pretty good. Though i cannot make the monitor go up higher. but everything else it does fine. even the bottom is almost pure flat which is great for people wanting space on their desks. it's also metalic rather than those cheap plastics, making the stand a solid 9/10 imho. it uses a basic cable management. it works for me, but some other users complain it doesn't hide it enough (the cables)



This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Aug 15 2025, 09:36 AM

i cant get to the hdr windows calibration.

in windows 11 display setting for hdr, it says not supported.

i checked my box to confirm it has hdr. but i check monitor settings, no toggles there for hdr afaik.

so confused.

how to i enable hdr exactly?

https://www.thewindowsclub.com/hdr-not-supp...n-on-in-windows



*update

found out the issue.

for radeon driver settings app, its the setting graphics > 10 bit pixel format. TURN THAT OFF. then reboot to apply.

once done, NOW i can select hdr in windows.

additionally, ONCE you enable hdr in windows, ONLY THEN in your monitor settings (use the monitor buttons to go to the monitor settings) will now show HDR options. It wont do it until you toggle hdr via windows.

this my first time doing this so thats new for me


im a bit confused though.

this guy says to adjust the peak brightness to 1000nits.




but in the other youtube, they dont talk about that at all




i assume you only set it to 1000nits ONLY if u plan to use the peak1000 hdr mode. but what if u r using hdr mode? what then? so what is the correct thing to do? if i follow that guy and get windows to recognize it as 1000 peak brightness, will that mess things up when i use at hdr mode?

currently it says my peak brightness in windows is 465 nits


*update

nm watched the video. since i am not using 1000peak brigntess hdr, i went with the nit value closest to 420-460 where the boxes disappeared. when i just temporarily tested peak1000 hdr, it felt too bright to me. hurt my eyes. i just want to relax


the other youtube mention for sdr changing back from native to dci p3. i'm testing between the 2 which to use. i liked the native a lot, but the reason for the dci p3 was to make the black equalizer sdr setting improve the lagom test for black level. this is for games where some scenes too dark, so this may help with that.


https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gaming/commen...should_use_dci/

http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/


*update

after some more testing i felt that the native preset gamut was better for me because with dpi it felt like it leaned more toward a red hue look which felt gross to me. native felt more natural and still colorful. what do you guys think? which is better? for gaming, browsing web (youtube), netflix (basic ) and mpv for watching anime?




ps: dont notice any flicker. maybe its there, just i dont see it i was worried, but seems no problem.

i have freesync /vrr enabled. also i cap my fps in radeon settings to 236 not sure if that or something else helped.

This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Aug 15 2025, 03:37 AM

ok so i finished the sdr and hdr setting tuning based on those 2 youtube mostly.

i'm quite happy with the result

also tested in bright scenes, looks amazing. i know they say oleds not bright enough, but in the sdr it looked fine to me.



in this scene especially during the overlord mv ed, you have brightness coming from both sides while there some blacks in the center. looks awesome. for the same scene with an ips monitor, you get awful blacks and that nasty white glow by comparison. this qd oled blows ips out the water



so was it worth going from ips to qd oled (glossy with anti reflect coating). For me yes.

- no more ip glow
- amazing blacks
- no ghosting or overshoot. latency is insanely fast for gaming


The only one thing i still have concern is the oled burn in. but i got all the gigabyte oled care enabled. i made sure windows sleeps monitor after 2-5 minutes of no activity. so wont know till 3 years or more of it can resist burn in well or not. but i'm not going to be reckless by keeping a static image. just not possible when it will go black on idle. hard to make that mistake.





ps: this model does have some sort of holder for the neck of the monitor stand to hold the wires. it's good enough for me, but i saw on reddit some users complained it was a mess of wires even with that. if they not happy just buy a monitor arm and mount to that. mine has neat cable management for it.



for hdr content i used youtube to test






my jaw dropped how good it looks. seriously, if u r still using ips now and u know nothing about oled and u got a budget of rm2k, then i recommend this gigabyte mo27q2 model. Or if you can wait, the gen4 woled model might be even better more so the glossy version.

But honestly with this model right in front of me, i'm totally satisfied. Gaming, anime, netflix, desktop browsing, blacks, no ghosting during gaming, high fps (when paired with my cpu and graphics card) it does very well


maybe those who have been in oled world for much longer would nitpick the stuff it doesn't have e.g.

1. 32'' 4k
2. dolby vision
3. blame frame insert
4. gen4 qd oled or woled & el 3.0
5. detection sensor and a similar or better oled care like asus has
6. higher brightness (which the new panels will have)
7. no magenta (i didnt notice it though. maybe during the day perhaps?)
8. no flicker (didnt even notice any flicker. my eyes arent that great for starters, but either way if i dont see it, then good )
9. better text clarity. looks good to me after i use the windows clear font or whatever its called. though tbh it may be causing some eye strain, but not sure.


yet despite all those short comings (the ones i noticed anyway), it's still Rm2k. For a 27'' 1440p qd oled with hdr10 support, it seemed to hit my buy zone. it was totally worth it. Maybe if you can wait next year maybe u can get the gen4 oleds for 1-2k by then?


This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Aug 15 2025, 03:59 AM

for pc gaming tested with diablo 4 hdr ultra setting without the ray tracing stuff



new experience i never had with ips. looks good. maybe other titles r better for hdr.

yeah i didnt quite get 240fps for d4 ultra. my specs arent that gr8 not to mention i disable pbo to keep my cpu cool it rarely if ever gets past 60-70c now



i did get to 240 with apex legends though








*update

will it help u win games? yes i think so based on my results















*update

my usage pattern is to alt tab between game and windows for browsing. so i am stuck in HDR cause im using that for apex legend, whereas hdr isn't the best for windows regular stuff. That said, it's fine if not ideal, it doesnt bother me as much. i could use the sdr shortcuts but i cant get xbox gamebar to stay active donno why. but for me isnt an issue. if i am gaming ill use hdr if its available. when not gaming then ill probly switch back to sdr.



tip: if the windows + alt+ b toggle for hdr on/off not working,

this is why
https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsHelp/commen...11_not_working/



*update

figured out how to get my shortcuts and also gamebar to work. this required a few fixes



as to why my windows key wasnt working, its because of my aula mkb.




this toggled the win lock to be disabled so windows key now working again. they usually have this feature on some keyboards for gamers to avoid accidentally switching to windows during gaming by accident.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Epomaker/comments/...fter_reset_and/


you can use this to verify if your keyboard keys actually work
https://www.keyboardtest.org/



The other issue was i didnt think xbox gamebar was working right for me. There is a good fix someone posted that worked.
https://www.reddit.com/r/xbox/comments/pyx0...hich_game_i_am/



win + g = xbox gamebar.

You need the xbox gamebar enabled, because that is what is required for the HDR on/off toggle to work, apparently. That shortcut to toggle between hdr/sdr for windows 11 is is

You know it works when ur screen flashes while it changes modes, and the xbox gamebar shows u a quick pop up telling if u r in hdr or sdr mode.


I HIGHLY recommend you use the shortcut toggle to switch between hdr and sdr. Because otherwise, you have to do it by go to start > settings > display > then toggle there via the UI. It's not convenient. Especially because for users like me that alt tab back and forth between game and windows, it's just too many steps if done too often. That said i dont think i will switch toggle between hdr and sdr during gaming session. Only if i play game then i just leave it on hdr. Reason is, there is a short delay to toggle modes. I alt tab way too often for this to be practical with such a delay. So i am better off just sticking to hdr during my whole gaming session. the HDR mode while watch youtube isnt too bad (not ideal but i'll live)


according to youtubers, they also recommend going into HDR mode BEFORE entering game. so as not to reset the hdr settings for the game or some such.











but as you can see my own results, i can barely even touch 240fps and that would would have to be by enabling fsr 3 and possibly tuning down some video graphics settings in the game to achieve that so how to go 4k gaming? obviously cant afaik not for me with my current cpu and graphic card anyway







This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Aug 17 2025, 05:57 PM

daytime test.

8:30am

sun i can see directly (literally) in front of me through the small slit window blinds. it doesn't get brighter than this naturally (best spot to setup a solar panel).

repeating black screen test here

https://darkblackscreen.com/


bottom left, top right, bottom right, some parts near center of monitor still show a pure total black. but the top left corner which is closest to wear the sun is coming from through the window, that part you can see the lighting from the sun intefering with the black. so it has a sort of white grey tint. put simply you can get total black with the sun lighting sort of getting to that part of the screen from behind.

i cannot see any reflection, but if u put ur face right next to the screen you can see reflection but barely. so for reflection as far as im concerned is not an idea for this screen, even with the sun shinning through the blinds slits gap right behind the monitor


next test is trying to watch youtube, watch anime and play some games with this lighting conditions. i'm testing between sdr and hdr content.

ok tested the hdr youtube demo. it's fine. for someone that had to put up with ips glow for like forever, this is like nothing i'm not too fussy about this. yes the sun lighting does reach top left corner of the screen, like about 10-20% of the total screen but only in that corner mostly, it's ok for me. i can watch the demo HDR without issue or it being a huge problem for. But if you are a purist and want total black no matter what, then you'll need to put some black out curtains to solve that problem. for me not too bothered.

supposedly woled can handle external lighting better than qd oled. i dont have a woled so i dont know much better that is in these conditions, but supposedly it is.

matte offers more protection against reflection. but for the model i barely notice much issue with reflection. the only time i saw reflection was shinning the lighttorch from my smartphone pointed directly at monitor, and even then it wasn't much. i still could still watch without too much distraction so not big of an issue.


anyway if the sun was not directly in front of me, then for room brightness wouldn't be as severe as my situation. it's only most severe when no cloud cover, but more often than not there are lots of clouds so this dims the external lighting at times.


*update

9:30am

lighting got brighter. in total black screen, is where it's most obvious,. 25% from the top left, you will begin to see reflections of yourself more so than at any time ive seen so far. but still not too big an issue, and u barely notice it under normal viewing conditions. So no, i dont feel i nneed a matter just yet in regards to reflections. but i do wonder how a trully glossy would fair. or whether samsung was right going semi glossy



*update

12 afternoon+

not as bright as early morning. with blinds especially no problem. so i then tested open window and remove blinds to test the lighting conditions. similar issue as at 9:30am but with less external brightness. it's no problem, but yes the top left 25% of the screen is exposed to the external outdoor sun lightning. It's not a big deal for me. If you are a purist, use the blinds. I think even without full black out curtain, just these blinds are more than sufficient around this hour, at least for me.


reflection does appear with external lighting, but i had to try hard to even notice it, so in real usage it's not really a concern. just dont be a d** and deliberately make ur external lighting situation worse if possible the not totally black due to light expore, maybe woled can solve that? i dont know, never used one. for me it's no problem after i tested.

If i wanted full glory of qd oled without worry for the external lighting issues, i'll just watch at night for serious binging, or just get some dark out curtains. no big deal


This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Aug 15 2025, 01:36 PM

in regards to the oled care features.

for the oled care features i left them all on default.

the only thing i changed was add a monitor shutdown after 10 minutes of inactivity. but i think i will change that to 30 minutes later.

for ips normally i just have it sleep and not care about shut down. but for oled, i think i need to be more cautious.

the other thing, i think it only runs the pixel cleaning only when monitor is shutdown, NOT asleep (correct me if i am wrong).

I also did not notice any screen notification like asus do for their oled care for reminding user it's due for pixel clean. I didn't see that for gigabyte. Instead i had to check in the monitor oled care settings to see if it wants to run a pixel clean or not. if it doesnt it doesnt allow you to manually trigger it. It's fine because you shouldn't be spamming it anyway since that just makes it worse for the monitor if u did.

so yeah i think the oled care could be better, like asus, but at the same time it's fine for me.

this is how it works.

at the end of the day when i am done, i will just sleep windows. The monitor goes to sleep mode. then after 30 minutes (based on the timer i set), it will then auto shutdown on its own. When it's in the shutdown mode, it will automatically run the pixel clean IF it needs to. I'm assuming it will just do it once only, and won't resume the pixel clean timer until you turn it on again.



as for cleaning (physically) the monitor screen, early on i notice a dirt smudge on the panel. so i damped a fiber cloth, rinse it as much as i can so its damp and not totally wet dripping. then i try to wipe off the smudge. But it simply left a smear. So i took another micro fiber and did a wipe to dry the water trail.


So i'm doubtful just plain water and micro fiber cloth enough.


Is wet wipes doable or will that ruin the screen?

https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gaming/commen...qdoled_screens/


https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gaming/commen...qdoled_screens/

This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Aug 15 2025, 09:15 AM

lg's ultragear for the gen4 woled. it's in chinese

found an answer somewhat to the arm mmount





https://www.reddit.com/r/gigabyte/comments/..._of_a_gigabyte/


different model but the same issue.

any ideas anyone experienced?


*update

in the monitor manual it says



https://www.gigabyte.com/my/Monitor/MO27Q2/...#support-manual



found a shop on shopee selling these.



my monitor arm came with these


but i couldnt find the 10mm. instead i was using the m4 x 25mm with bracer for the msi. so another shopee seller was selling the screws, will take a while to arrive.


will re-do review with the monitor arm.

the monitor is too close to me, it's not good for the distance. not the monitor's fault, but my gaming desk is too short for the length. it's fine if using a monitor or speaker arm clamp, but not as is.

This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Aug 15 2025, 02:41 PM

Boss.. DON'T use water.
and try not to use normal microfibre towel, especially the waffle type.

Use 70% Ethanol with ultrafine microfibre. This is what is recommended by the QD-OLED maker, samsung. it is also recommended by Gigabyte and MSI.

ideally, food-grade Ethanol (pure Ethyl, no mixture with other substance)

Personally, I use 75% Ethanol and spray on glass microfibre cloth (the one we use to clean eye glasses). The ethanol small bottle can be found in Shopee. No marks left on the panel.

The glass microfiber helps to clean the smudge.

This post has been edited by overfloe: Aug 15 2025, 10:50 AM

got recommend any good shopee store sell this? where to find

i found this on shopee, is this one ok?




also found this



500ml spray 75%

but seller review














found a seller "Cleanse360 Official Store"

RM10.90 for a 75% ethanol 500ML in a spray bottle. 75% is ok right? though i dont think its food grade








do u spray on the monitor then wipe, or spray onto the micro fiber then wipe?





https://www.laballey.com/blogs/blog/storage...life-of-ethanol












Gigabytes official instructions for this particular model



https://www.gigabyte.com/my/Support/Consumer/FAQ/4362

This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Aug 15 2025, 04:31 PM

This one:
https://my.shp.ee/NSPpjMX

Or this:
https://my.shp.ee/8NAQyEd

Spray on the microfibre towel first, and then wipe the screen. Not recommended to spray direct coz it might drip.

for local video player playback e.g. mkvs, mp4 etc, i use this setup for anime


previously i used mpv.net which had a UI for mpv which makes things far easier to use. but the project died. so i found an alternative.

step1: get the original mpv. i use windows so i use the windows install. if u go to the mpv website they give u many solutions. this is the one i used that seemed the easiest to setup

https://github.com/zhongfly/mpv-winbuild

once you download it, extract it onto your pc to a location of your choice. maybe u want to make it a mpv folder in program files to make it standard? up to you. next, run the bat file as an administrator. this will prompt to download youtubedl so you can playback youtube using mpv, and also download ffmpeg which is the codecs needed to watch many video media (make sure u say Y to download it when it prompts you).



step2:

follow this guide



but he uses a different mpv UI skin than the one i am using. You can use his if you prefer, but the one i was using was this one. this one is actively maintained and has many stars on github so its quite popular. i tried it out, looks gr8. i dont mind the simplicity, it's clean and functional and thats all that mattered.

https://github.com/tomasklaen/uosc/releases


maybe the youtube one is better i dont know cause i am still testing. but so far i am happy with it.

the point is, i liked mpv.net but the project died so i needed an up to date still being maintained alternative, and this was that.


step3:

for anime, i use this shader for mpv

github.com/bloc97/Anime4K



you may use something else or not at all, it's up to you. but for anime, this makes it look nicer. it wasnt really intended for tv series like breaking bad etc, but since i mostly watch anime so this is what i use.

Last time i used mpc-hc with madvr. But these days i prefer mpv + anime4k shaders. you can try whatever works best for you




so now with mpv we can toggle the audio or subtitle track if the video has one (usually this is important especially for anime). And you got the shaders to make anime looked even better

this is my setup for enjoying anime viewing for this new qd oled. thought i'd share this.

If you got a better setup, do share



*update

as bonus, the mpv uosc adds an update in the ui, making updating it easier. also, for updating mpv, there is a bat file where you can check for update. this is why i preferred that other the other mpv installers.








This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Aug 15 2025, 07:52 PM

oof. pc crash again.

reseated ram it booted properly again.

i did run a memtest over night, 7+ passes no errors. so i think the ram is fine. so only time pc can boot is only when i jiggle the ram to reseat.

so my conclusion is either the ram slot is dirty and need more cleaning (using ethanol), or motherboard is damaged somehow.

i already updated the motherboard bios, and factory reset and redid all the bios settings. so just testing this for now.

also have hwinfo to monitor temp as well


is totally unrelated issue to the monitor. But if i do end up having to replace motherboard, i reckon i'd rather just upgrade the whole system.

with my current build i can get close to 240fps for apex legends which is the game i play most. not so much for diablo 4 but it's fast enough and i dont play that game much these days.

this is my current pc build

AMD 5700X3D

AMD RX7800XT Nitro+

Asus ROG Strix X570-E Gaming Wifi II motherboard (AM4 platform)

Gskill Trident Neo DDR4 16x2 (32gb) ram



The possible upgrade i saw was an Amd 9800X3D + motherboard combo (X870) for roughly Rm3.9k

the other alternative is an AMD 7800X3D + motherboard (same one) for roughly rm2.8k

*note: ddr5 ram prices not included. i estimate ram for 16x2 would be about RM500-600?


But even with that upgrade, i'd still need to get a new graphics card if i wanted to do 4k gaming? but is good enough for 1440p right close to 240 fps right?


between these 2 system upgrades which is better for me for 1440p? which is the better deal. I don't mind paying for the more expensive option but only if it's worth it though.








https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/...0x3d_for_1440p/

https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/..._with_a_7800xt/




oo... dont buy asrock



That said, i'm quite alright with my existing pc build. Yes it's outdated but it's fine for my usage. rather save money if i can. But if pc continues to reboot, have no choice but to upgrade.


another thing i sus is perhaps DOHC for this ram kit is not stable. But that doesnt explain why reseating ram fixes the booting of pc (temporarily so far). So i doubt that is the case. more likely to be the ram slot or motherboard in some way.



PS: notice some 2 small smudges on screen. wiping with a dry microfiber cloth not enuff. using distilled water on the micro fiber and wring it out then rub gently in circular motions did the trick though. the thing is i cough and sneeze so thats probably how it got dirty hoping to get that monitor arm setup soon so i can place it further away from my face.



*update

still crashing not practical having to reseat ram to get it to work. if it happens again i'll try put in another ram slot i never used and see if that does anything. if still got i'll try the ethanol clean when that arrives. after that i think ill just upgrade

i bought this mobo around August 2021. now is August 2025. When do u guys typical upgrade your pc builds?

This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Aug 16 2025, 04:24 PM

hm pc crash again. this time i try use different ram slot see if stable or not

as for the monitor arm already fixed. much nicer



i used 4 x M4 x 10mm screws. i also ordered some 12mm thinking to use the spacer, but after i check, the spacer too big. so i just skip the spacers and just use the thing metal ring separator only, thats more than enough and i did not see any issues, it just works.

the distance for face from monitor now 1 whole arm and 1 hand away distance. just perfect for a 27''

Then again a 32'' 4k would have been better... o well

i used the cable management on the monitor arm, thats y u see fewer cables. the display port cable i didnt use the cable management because the DP cable too short as is. so i used it without doing anything. sure can order a longer dp cable but personally i'm not bothered.

This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Aug 16 2025, 04:20 PM

I'd strongly suggest you go for 9800x3d+5090 combo for 4k gaming. No regrets, no looking back.

my budget only can afford cpu + motherboard + ram + cpu cooler.


the youtuber said for a 9800x3d, they recommend 5070 ti. cheapest i saw was a RM3599 But i already have a RX7800XT and don't really want to replace.


Maybe the cpu pick is too good for the graphic card i have for 1440P? should i get a 7800X3D instead?









*update

mobo msi x870 tomahawk wifi i think is better





But anyway i think pc problem fixed so don't need the upgrade.

What i did was, remove the ram sticks, put in the other 2 ram slots i never used before (so unfortunately i wont get dual channel mode working cause using the wrong slots). next i remove the CMOS battery for 10minute to reset. I also update bios.

Now i don't have any hanging so far. So i think problem is fixed.

I did the memtest to check ram no issue there. I borrowed a spare ddr4 but never got the chance to test because pc hasnt crashed again yet.

Then i ran OCCT stress test app for an hour where cpu 100% use, no crash.

So i'll skip the upgrade for now. Problem is graphics card just too expensive. I'm already getting 240 fps for apex legends which is what i mostly play, for 1440p. So no need to upgrade

i just save my budget for the next 5-10 year when spec requirement is higher and prices for these parts are cheaper. If i was gonna go for their upper mid range build, i would have gone for the 4k monitor (MO27U2) instead.



*Update

PC was still bugging out..not sure where the failure when I was trying to diagnose and fix. My suspicion was CPU dmg, motherboard dmg, ram DMG or its only the ram slot needs cleaning.

Though ram passed memtest after 12 hours, I sus ram is spoiled. Also I think 3 out of the 4 ram slots may be spoiled cause when I try use the working ram I got elsewhere, it only worked in the third slot

Anyway I went ahead with the upgrade.

Qas planning to get 9800x3d but it was rm1k more than I wanted to spend. A box version for the 7800x3d cost almost the same as the 9800x3d. So I went the tray version which is a 3 year store warranty. There were too many news articles about 9800x3d so didn't want to risk it.

Also I don't plan to upgrade graphic card anytime soon..I use a rx 7800xt. So I figured no point spend more for the 9800x3d anyway, waste money.

I'm moving from a 5700x3d so this new CPU there is some performance gain to be had

This was an unscheduled PC upgrade. I only found out I needed to replace after my 1440p monitor arrived. Fyi, going for 4k monitor which was the mo27u2 would have also added another rm1k

So yeah upgrading just to go 4k is not cheap hence why I was on 1440p to begin with. Never tried 4k before but I'm quite fine on 1440p 27'' so I'm not too fussed. For a lot of us it's too cost prohibitive

Next went with Kingston fury beast ram cl30 6000mhz 2x16gb, frozen a720 cooler



also look at this performance chart for rx7800xt paired with a 7800x3d. the graphic card is 99% usage while the cpu does mostly 50-65% so the bottleneck is the graphic card not the cpu.






if u r building a new pc build for 1440p gaming monitor and going to change graphic card, DO NOT get a 7800xt to pair with the 7800x3d. The only reason i am doing that because i already own that graphic card, thats the only reason.



This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Aug 19 2025, 08:03 AM