Lidis bery hard to troubleshoot wor It's like:

patience: dokter ar, I shit a lot lately
doctor: huat kinda shit?
patience: i dunno wor, shit is busok i no purposely go see geh
doctor: hao does it smell?
patience: it smells stinky
doctor: ..... pls go shit nao I had to take a sample
patience: i doubt i can shit nao. but ayam sure my shit stinky
doctor:

Can you please atleast get a friend to ride along try to record the sound? Road condition? Detail RPM reading?

Ya. My farder in law heard from me, immediately he drove the car out to nearby petol stasen fuel up. Took him almost 1 hour to come back. I ask him, how much bcoz this morning I still saw it like 4/5 tank full. He sei 8 bucks He added, marneh bery hard to earn. Eberi little saving count That hour of jam at petolstasen ady offset huatever he saved.

This post has been edited by davidke20: Oct 1 2014, 08:35 PM

Pipu wanna change kar, their current car always got rosak here & there(be it in their mind or really rosak), and make it sound like changing a car is the only best solution

On the other hand, pipu who hold on to a car I bought the car for 7k, repaired 7k, will still think paying RM25k for a new car which not even have a radio is foolish, not to mention insurance rotax kena kaw kaw

Normal is no sound Either the bearing koyak or disc berak rubbing the pads, and or could be jammed caliper. So, it can be all 3 together if unlucky

If disc warp, usually price for machinery shop to grind 1 disc is RM35 only. But how much your magician gonna charge you, that I have totally no idea. If it's a disc warp, I'll suggest you to leave it as is, use until you can't berak anymore than 1 shot go change berakpad + disc. Dun forget our single layer disc is so thin, after grind become even thinner. The next time even more easy to get warp. After send few times go grind disc, ady enough to buy a new set jor! Might as well save the money now and do it 1 shot later. Rather than grind so many times, in the end magician tell you can't grind anymore, you'll stil have to fork out money to get another set of new disc

Akon kompressor bearing? Pulley? Tawpon kompressor piston sudah mau koyak

Yg mentioned tu semua menda yg dalam 1 package, semua related to airkon je. Paling terok, kena tukak kompressor lar apelagi Harge ntah la. Slalu aku bikin kat YKS belakang AmBank Puchong Tmn Kinrara. Biase dalam lingkungan 700 pakei part sekonhen.

Bro, itu RM700 kira manyak morah. Biasenyer, kompressor baru dah RM1000 Belom kira aperanjiao yg tambah masok, upah pasang agi Magician yg bagui, klo kompressor klac magnet sudah tak cengkam, diorang boley kasi tukak, harge dalam RM200 siap pasang. Tapi kebanyakan magician tau komrpessor klac magnet rosak pon sengaje beritau itu kompressor rosaked, supaya hang tukak baru, nanti itu kompressor koyak die sendiri oberhol juai bagi kastomer laen nanti

So, hang pandai² la. Aku pandai cakap je, as if I have a workshop

Tukak kompressor 1 bijik, cooling coil 1 bijik, evaporator 1 bijik, hose 1 batang picah, 700 mahal?

Steering vibrate left/right = tayar balancing / tayar bengkak

Whole car bouncing up/down = tayar bengkak kaw kaw / drisab misalign

Tayar very hard to say geh. Who knows it's the material leh? Tayar komani cincai leh? Kena paku & patched many taims, until steel belt dalam tayar radial sudah koyak, then the rubber mai pregnant liao lor.

It's not like I wangto be sifoo, it's just these are the komen issue with Ganjil. Other than these stuff, basically it's a cheap & nasty little devil that served it's purpose of going pasar beli vavi geh It's very rare to have a car from 1994 that never needs an overhaul under my care

Aluminium bukan pakei bagi sejuk, bagi anti karat. Lu punya kawang tataw palanciau smua cerita dongeng sohainess. Semua material tangki akan panas, berapa cipat panas terpulang kepada termostat. Berapa cipat sejok terpulang kepada kipas & berapa core itu radiator desain. Radiator mmg senang panas mia, klo itu radiator takpanas, injin engkau lah yg panas.

So, senang cerita. Duet ade, belik aluminium. Bajet tarak cukop, belik hafkat. Duet langsung tarak, tapaya mod pakei ori

Klac kit murah jer, around 200 nia, but upah wise... Usually 300

don't bother until klac slip or unable to engage klac Usually after "checked", den drisab cover bocor, den drisab bearing koyaked, den gebox got vibration =_= Especially the passenger side, stuff is like made of tofu, cincai touch abit will rosaked 1. Never bother to inspect never had problem, once checking done, meaning wallet also dry jor. Might as well wait until kenot use baru "check" and repair

Tapaya tengok brand. Reason behind this is, Ganjil(Mira) got many aftermarket performance parts, also many imitation. If you're getting GReddy/ARC locally for less than RM300, most probably those are fake Anyway, be it fake or original, janji aluminium. Check inside the inlet hole see berapa lapis itu radiator is. Usually atleast 2 lapis, if dapat carik 3 lapis or 4 lapis lagi best lar

1st gear hard to engage can be shift link senget. Can try to ask magician kasi ejes dulu see whether can get the 1st gear back in place. Otherwise, can also try to adjust clutch cable kasi higher clutch action see whether it helps.

Another thing is, usually hard to engage gear after presss clutch pedal, could cause by clutch cover,not clutch plate. Weaken clutch cover may result in unable to detach clutch fully, hence hard to gear in since the flywheel still spinning together with the wheels. Anyway, if changing clutch cover, might as well do the whole set.

So, it's a very good excuse to say klac plobrem, mau tukak injin ye

L2 6 valves carburetor NA engine Stock 660 if you understand my sarcasm. Sorry ar, ayam not a tebu person, so performance wise I really dunno how to advise you

Your injin apa plobrem now? Ayam looking for L2 to detebu play NA

Recond around 400. Baru tak tau