this is why we say X1R is a crap.

Avoid X1R.

There are always some ppl who will attest to "smoothen" engine and performance of various snake oil. The worst fear of engine oil becoming sludge seems to appear for X1R, an "authorised" snake oil that was added due to political and cronyism in Proton. Other established manufacturers always recommended NOT to any performance boosters as they have no way of knowing what chemical reaction of the additional oil will do the any attested and balanced engine oil.

Sludging and engine miniscule damage are the worst case scenarios of these oils. It seems Proton has officially approved the usage of such oil without thorough research as do other established car manufacturer.

i'm waiting they announce the Magnacrap problem same like X1R.
but if this spread to media sure X1R will give respond of Proton design problem not the oil treatment problem.

i'm waiting they announce the Magnacrap problem same like X1R.
but if this spread to media sure X1R will give respond of Proton design problem not the oil treatment problem.

I think magna crap no side effect wan, only plain useless. Put there for show so that it can show a bit of metal sticking in the filter. But then again, without magnacrap, it will still stuck in the filter.

this is why we say X1R is a crap.

where you found this? i wanna see full thread...
member search feature seems not working.

How about octane booster? seen quite a few shopping complex sell those tablets (dynatab if i m not mistaken) or liquid booster that add in to fuel tank... Any comment?

Engine oil talk

Fubar20 TitanRev

I know you guys have your idea on how motor oil benefit the car. Here's my piece to chip in despite I'm not particular and have very little knowledge on engine oil. I've been driving several years, changing engine oil almost every 3 month, sometimes twice when I hit 3000 miles too soon. Due to cost of motor oil start increasing, I found I'm paying more and more on the vehicle maintenance, so I start to dig more info from magician. Helping to overhaul engine benefit the most in terms of technical knowledge and understand how motor oil affect engine performance.

Rule of thumb, buy engine oil with API stamp. Here's a link, please download and print a copy put inside your car. The next time when you wanna purchase motor oil, make sure you read the ratings whether its SN/SJ/SM/SL.

http://www.api.org/certifications/engineoi...2010_120210.pdf

With API ratings, you'll get an idea how these engine oil comply to your power unit. Your motor vehicle rely on the chemical inside the motor oil to survive friction. The viscosity only meant very little, but the API rating worth the most. Hence, when you use cap ayam motor oil, despite they put down 10w60, that does not mean the molecule can stand your car's 10.1:1 compressrion ratio with 400'c extreme heat during the ignition. Be it 10w100, it doesn't make any difference when the oil being channeled into the combustion chamber.

However, don't take my word as a whole. The viscosity does yield it's importance. For instance 10w40 multi-visco simply means 10 comes suffixed with W, meaning WINTER(not weight/watt as claim by others) for cold start viscosity. The 40 after W is hot viscosity. The front winter denote has lower figure, meaning the liquid has lower "beku" point. Sorry ran out of vocabulary. The hot visco higher denote a higher boiling point. You don't want oil to boil, just like your mommy cooking in the kitchen.

I've seen many horrible incident's while helping customer to do engine overhauling. Unsurprisingly, most of them having problem with their motor, they tend to miss their oil change quite often, sometimes up to few years did not change oil at all. Before dismantle an engine for overhaul, as I loosen the oil sum nut, I'll be extremely careful to not let oil spill on my hand. These burnt oil can irritate my skin and cause allergy. However, most of the time after the sum nut being pull off, there aren't any oil drip out. Even if there is, very little and very thick. Got once we unable to drain anything out from the sum, because those oil already turned grease. Can imagine how not to jammed the pistons?





Thinner hot viscosity oil does not mean you have less chance building up sludge, infact it's the opposite. Otften I ask magician why not fully synthetic as those expansive oil usually added cleaning agent, can last up to 6000 miles. The answer is simple, recycle the same oil in the engine can only make those oil turn into sludge. Debris and dirt to have more opportunity to form a bigger object between molecule, hence sludge start to build.



I used to worship 76 racing motor oil 10w40 for NASCAR, until my car start to emit white smoke and finally ended up with a full overhaul. Again, I did the overhaul by myself with assistance of magician to find that not much sludge built up, but the piston ring has been fully grounded off. Lesson learned as magician explain, usually racing motor oil does meant for racing. Those oil wouldn't last more than few thousand miles as it degrade faster than normal oil from the market. The dangerous part is, motor oil should form a film of coating on engine parts, but the degraded oil does not. It will be fully drained to the sump. Believe it or not, your engine life were shorten each time you crank start it, not when you taking it to the redline(provided the redline figure is properly balanced on your crankcase).

From the above little knowledge I gained from magician, I've been practicing frequent oil change. For your information, VTEC oil is rated SAE10w30 have no problem running at 8krpm.

See, reason why X1R has to be avoided.

In undocumented cases, cars running on NGV (BLM taxi primarily) also suffers from heavy sludge build up after using X1R.

Terrible sludge edi build up in turbocharged engine, i wonder how it works in the "NASA rocket" as their advertisement claimed.

for NA engine it is still OK. But better just avoid it all together.

for CFE engine, since it is turbocharged, the temperature inside gets hotter than usual NA engine, hence the heat accelerated the breakdown of X1R and that turns into massive pile of sludge.

How did you get those FC figures? What is your driving style and the type of traffic condition that you drive in most of the time? 9.0L/100KM seems kinda normal to me especially if you drive short distances / in the city or town a lot, maybe a slightly higher than the average but nothing to be worried about. I'm also suffering from the IAFM noise symptom since quite some time ago, and I don't see any difference to my fuel consumption nor the performance especially in the low rev range, though maybe it's just me being not sensitive enough.

anyone know where got buy persona accessories?

your friend mengsuan post that in preve thread.

https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...&#entry67253334

I checked my service list,there is 1 item called high pressure fuel..
Anyone knows what is that?