Time 2:20, new thing the first people use it in...

Signature Plastics DCS profile Dolch Replica.





This post has been edited by quovadis123: Apr 10 2014, 05:07 PM

just putting my keyboard in adidas bag like this

Mine rike dis:



Slightly different though, but you get the idea.

Damn nice pic.

This post has been edited by SetsunaFSeiei Exia00: Apr 10 2014, 05:25 PM

Do you already get this to add on your multi-color keyboard?
If not 016 still have leftover for you to purchase.

0168257061hey, what temp do your recommend for soldering and desoldering?

I read from guides is 350 celcius.

switch i use 400.
led ...260-280...pain in da ass ( so slow )

soldering or desoldering led i still no confidence yet

I totally messed up

I totally messed up
Do you use a sharper soldering head?

how come mess up?
i use the ori one.

it's so difficult to suck up the solder. I use hakkko ds01
the solder ended go through the hold and harden at the other side of the pcb

i have been thinking loooong and hard about this one, link here, interested?!!!!!



This post has been edited by ntw: Apr 10 2014, 10:06 PM

hantar rma ducky rosak balik ctntrik tech hampeh

I think this is not dsa???

maybe r2 or r3 dolch replica keycaps

hello guys..I want buy a mechanical keyboard..but i am newbie and know almost nothing about the mkb..can u guys suggest a brand or model for me? my budget is rm4++..i prefer blue switch

a very healthy budget. but u probably should refer to the first page to check out the cherry switch that suit your taste and then the keyboards within your budget range

400C is too hot for lead solder
260C is too low for lead solder

You should target 300-350C
400-450C is for lead free solder. You use this when you want to fix/remove switches from stock keyboards. Be sure not to mix your tips.

You can still use 400C for lead solder, but you're gonna kill your components faster if you leave the solder tip contact too long.
Look for the Pb Free logo on the PCB if you are not sure whether your board is Lead free or not.

Are you still wetting the solder with half coverage like you showed during the gathering, or do you wet the pad fully before removing your solder tip? If you assembled keyboards with half-wet pads, those things are going to fail faster because of the lower mechanical reliability.

http://www.circuitrework.com/guides/7-1-3.shtml

Sharp soldering tips are pretty useless for what you want to do. i.e. desoldering LEDs. If you are talking about SMD components, then that is another story. You would want something like this
http://malaysia.rs-online.com/web/p/solder...n-tips/2694045/
Chisel tip , 2.4mm (some call it screwdriver tip)

Generally you want to use the largest surface area contact between your tip and the solder for optimal heat transfer. This means that the solder melts fast and you can suck them out quickly. For desoldering, I use 2.4mm, for soldering I use 1.6mm

For desoldering LEDs, my advice is that you should use the cheaper solder (60/40 type) and add it to the 2 pins until it forms a solder bridge. While heating the solder bridge on one side, pull out the LED on the other, with a tweezer/plier, and then clean the pad. This is the best way I use to remove LEDs. Other methods are just horrible without a powerful desoldering pump, or good desoldering irons like a Hakko 808.