Nobody would share the experience?

I applied flat coat on the armors separately. Gloss coated the gold frame.

i have assembled it but not yet on the painting or top coating part

but if i have to do it, ill just remove the parts from the gold chrome parts and top coat the individual piece. after drying, assemble as is. reason? I am not sure if i can easily cover/mask all those little parts very well and i think it will also be faster that way.

Its quite troublesome to take out the armor for matte top coat. I'm planning to mask the gold part only. But now trying to find water slide decal for it first.

Apply flat coat on armors separately, but how about the panel lines and decals? Some decals will run through multiple pieces of armor.

I'm thinking of do coating this way too. Just mask all the gold part especially chrome plated part.

You're gonna have a very hard time to mask the frame. You're supposed to slice the decal that sticks on few pieces, like on the shoulder.

i will end up repeating what mushy said

but really, whatever works for the modeller be it. there many ways to do it and masking is one of them.

as i said, it is what i said i would do. panel lines is easy, it is actually better to panel line piece by piece since you can ink the hidden areas (but not worth the extra work for me)

for markings, if it is sticker, just grab a new blade and cut it.
for water slide decals, if it is really multiple parts, just use marking solution to dissolve it. after curing it will shrink to that intended part (some may need cutting though)

but thinking back now, the armor piece is really hard to take off so the markings might end up destroyed in the process >.<

This post has been edited by chyll2: Feb 18 2014, 07:13 AM

im trying paint brushing now.... after 5 minutes of painting the paint will dry up, what did i do wrong? Mixed the paint with gaia retarder max, dem hard to paint brush ler....

The gold on the body is gundam marker gold with retarder max, the one on the shield is gaia star bright gold
but i cant seem to achieve the paint in a smooth surface, any idea guys?

i think most of us here will use the enamel cover up method here for the Sinanju's emblem... 1st layer brush all the parts that need gold color with ... then 2nd layer cover it with enamel black. lastly use zippo lighter fluid with cotton bud to wash off the black color of the emblem... then you'll see the result

so with what i have now, what should i need to buy?

1. Acrylic-based Gold paint
2. Zippo Lighter fluid
3. Enamel-based black paint.

i think my current gold paint is acrylic base, so enamel based black paint would be next
enamel black paint have to mix with what to paint brush?

or most of here uses AB to paint the black and the gold?

air brush or hand paint also can... enamel paint can mix with zippo fluid as the thinner...
actually for gold color gundam marker is not recommended since the color will oxidize very fast if no coating applied once the kit finished.
gaia star bright 122 is a good choice.

but hand paint can the experts here guide me how to make it more consistent? i had to keep adding the retarder in order for the ink not to dry up, and the colors gets lighter everytime i add the retarder

Gaianotes is lacquer

try painting few thin layers instead of 1 thick layer
by few thin layers mean, u paint a layer, wait it dry, paint another layer, n wait again

gaia note is lacquer based and afaik, it can only be used with airbrush

for handbrushing, you can use enamel paints since it really dries and cure slowly or acrylic paints (some acrylic paints though works better with retarder since they are designed to be used with airbrush)

for acrylic though, you need to know what is the thinner or thinning solution is. Alcohol based acrylic cannot be thinned with water and vice versa. for the gundam marker, i think it is alcohol based since it really dries quickly.

WIP (kinda)

Red phyco frame banshee
Haha

nice!
btw, anyone here who just doing OOB build (with custom paint) only even after years in this hobby?
just curious