Can masuk nicely into the boot flushed meh? Thought the new battery pack is bigger thus no space for the spare tire unless jutting out? Never peeked into the boot before though...

This post has been edited by Nitrous: Jun 25 2014, 11:34 AM

My most important criteria IMHO, is that Hondata does not support FL CRZ (at this moment anyway, unless someone sends the FL ECU to Hondata). This is a no-no for me, as it restricts majority of the mods I plan to do.
If you want the pre-FL to have similar power to the FL CRZ, some money needs to be poured in, like changing the cams for the pre-FL in order to obtain the HP closer to FL version (close but not the same).
If you plan to go all out for power mods (not styling or suspension etc etc, those are soft-mods), Hondata is a valuable companion in your car, and for that reason alone I'll pick the pre-FL.
Just my personal opinion.... go pick up the 2 volumes of Hyper-Rev, and salivate over the mods (mostly for pre-FL)...

Supercharging can be done on both FL and Pre-FL, just that FL's ECU does not have the capability to utilize Hondata to tune, you'd need some other ECU piggyback for it... similar to HKS supercharger kit. I am not too sure about the S+ button, but why are you so keen on it anyway if you are supercharging? By then you already have so much power and torque under your right feet, that you should not need it anymore.

Hondata is a ECU tuning tool, for CRZ it is called the FlashPro. What it does is that it removes/backup the old Honda factory software parameters from the original ECU, and then loads a custom parameters (called maps) which is suits the hardware mods that you have. This optimizes the hardware that you are using, as the stock map in the ECU cannot cater for the mods that you have installed, and this is especially true for supercharging.
Alternatively, some folks uses piggybacks to tune their car's ECU for their mods, but there are fundamental differences between piggybacks (like Halfords or Motec) and Hondata, as Hondata uses the original ECU (just that the software parameters are changed), while piggybacks uses a separate module to overwrite the original ECU's commands during runtime.

Most plug and play power mods does not necessarily need tuning, but if you want to extract all the power that the engine can for those hardware mods, tuning is required and in turn, require something to change the engine ECU parameters. This is where piggybacks or Hondata comes to play as it changes the ECU parameters in order to fully utilize the hardware.

Hope this explains the Hondata....

Have you tried other manual cars? Pinjam other folk's car and have a go at it... There may be mods that were done which can cause the lagginess, it is not easy to pinpoint from one pic unfortunately... have you tried asking the owner? Intake and exhaust mods should lighten the throttle and allow the car to rev easily, and should not cause lagginess. Heavier and bigger rims can cause some lag, but 1" above the stock should not give any detrimental effect. If unsure, try looking for another car, there are plenty manual for sale....

There is one item which i forgot to ask, the manual pre-FL and auto that you are comparing against, is the auto a FL version of CRZ? Stock FL CRZ have more torque and horses compared to a stock pre-FL car, hence might explain the driving difference between the 2 cars...
If they are both pre-FL, then unfortunately the owner needs to check further on the car.
Hope this helps....

Using Rays CE28N Genesis...
Lightweight rims is a must for this car, or for any cars on my books

All ori CE28 are forged rims, and forged rims are strong, durable and light.
No idea how much they run for these days, but I don't expect them to be cheap...

Been driving with Takeda for ages now.. never had such problems, though I have tuned the car together with it. Even without tuning (there was a time when I have not gotten my Hondata yet, but hardware is in), the car never bogs down or die.
Check to see if any of the sensors have kong'ed out, especially the ones near the exhaust or throttle body, either Hondata or an OBD2 scanner should help.
Cheers..

Pentagon Racing at Sg Besi brings in J's Racing parts, mainly for FD2R, but they might stock for CRZ. They recently have brought in Showa Racing (J's Racing rebrand) coilover set for CRZ. Try asking them...
https://www.facebook.com/groups/PENTAGON.Racing/
Some other forumers are also running on J's Racing parts if I m not mistaken, though i cannot remember who...

I service outside... Avantgarde Mechanic.... using Torco oils

Yes, void... not gonna be bothered abt Honda's warranty, not that they excel in after sales service anyway. Their oil selection are terrible anyways, and my mods require me to use specific oils like LSD additives.
I service every 5k km.. depending on the mods I do, but I do service more often than the mileage require me to.

One question, just curious (don't flame me), why worry about warranty? Sounds like you have been held at ransom by car manufacturers It would be very sad if that takes away the fun on owning a CRZ, just because of warranty. That is my 2 cents la... Then again, different people different agenda, so I guess you would have your own good reasons to keep the warranty.
Cheers..!

Been using SR1 since the day I left Honda SCs... never looked back since.
Great oil, especially for me since i bounce off the rev limiter when I drive... Honda Oil cannot take such abuse.

As for the battery, it is just a matter of time, CRZ pre-FL NiMH batteries are like notebook batteries, they have a lifespan after which needs replacing, although its lifespan is much, much longer than your average notebook battery. It won't cause our car to stall or die, just that it won't be able to store charge as much as before, and ends up being used up faster. Even our lead-acid batteries need replacing However, with that said, I have seen pre-FL CRZ been tracked-abused (i.e. batteries overheating, requiring external cooling, plus constant charge and discharge), and it is still holding up pretty well. I don't forsee any IMA batteries dying off that soon...

This post has been edited by Nitrous: Jul 22 2014, 10:32 AM

I am using BC BR... definitely more bumpier than normal, but acceptable to me. Its a gem when it comes to handling.

It is general news that there are no longer anymore tax rebates for hybrid cars. CRZ fall squarely into the Hybrid cars range, thus there were massive tax rebates for the CRZ previously (2013 and prior). After the tax rebates ended, the CRZ incurs the usual taxes that an imported car would in Malaysia, hence the massive spike in its selling price. Even the Prius can't escape this with the latest announcement of its new price list.
If you want a CRZ, you have 2 choices, either you get a used CRZ (quite a lot I can see), or hunt for a ex-stock 2013, ie. the car has been sitting there since Dec 2013 without been registered/driven.
Good luck!

The number of exhaust sections depends on how you define the extractor actually....
Technically, the "extractor" and the exhaust ports for the LEA engine is casted as a one piece assembly into the engine head (unlike the older generation cars). From this engine head, there is a "extractor" section which bend downwards from the engine head into the first cat converter (section 1) and the first exhaust sensor. This section is connected to the downpipe which has the second exhaust sensor and secondary cat converter (section 2). This is subsequently connected to the mid-pipes which has a center bullet to muffle the noise, and is the longest bit of exhaust piping (section 3). Last part would the muffler section (section 4) before ending up at an exhaust plume to our atmosphere.
As for full Js racing pipes, I have not tried them before, but have heard that it is great for supercharged cars....

For compatibility, you may need to cut into one of the flange of either the JS Racing pipe, or the original pipe, and weld the correct flange in order to fit JS Racing and the ori pipes together, as I don't think the flange will fit with each other. I can't confirm as I have not used JS Racing stuff before unfortunately.
As for power, you may make some power since you have removed the cat converter in both section 1 & 2, but note that your exhaust gasses may be restricted by the smaller sized ori pipes at the back sections. I do not know what is the impact of that to the overall power of the car, but you may make some power. Why don't you go full JS Racing?

Yea, there are "local" or custom made downpipes available, just be aware of the first section where you will need a better quality (strong casted iron preferbly) due to the intense heat and velocity of the gasses coming out, and also the EGR return pipe done up properly (or you can opt to close off the valve). I m using local cap ayam kampung kinda pipes as well, replica HKayAsS...
Note that once you have removed the front cat, there will be hollow klinking sound from the downpipes due to missing cat converter, so your car can get slightly louder.

Yes, there are 2 emission sensors at that area as well, one just before the first cat, you can view it from the engine bay, just as the exhaust section leaves the engine head. Second one is under the car, located close to the second cat.

Yes, for mine, the emission warning lights did come up, but I cancelled it via Hondata. Note that I have also deleted/blocked the EGR, thus it may be the cause of the emission warning messages, not the cat delete, as I plugged back in the emission sensors.

Sorry guys, have been bz these days.
Yes gotten back the car, initially wanted to do port and polish for the head, but that didn't work out.
Nothing special with my car actually, normal plug and play and some fine tuning...

Not much, just the usual plug and play suspects. And no, you won't get 20 horses more unfortunately, probably 15 if your tuner is good and only if you are using the pre-FL CRZ. If you are using the FL CRZ, then there is no point of mods frankly, as it is quite fast.
The basic changes are the GE8 cams which brings the petrol engine close to the output of the FL CRZ, with full set of exhaust and Takeda intake. Hondata (only applies for manual pre-FL version) pulls all these hardware changes together and ensure that my car does not run lean. On the side note, if I have the moolah, I would go for supercharger really...
On the other hand, power without handling suck balls, thus I have a 4 pot brakes, bigger wheels (18"), BC-BR adjustables, and the stiff ring installed. Cornering is made way much better with a 1-way LSD from M-Factory as well.

By the way, always note that auto CRZ have limited options available, thus if you are having an auto, my mods may or may not apply to yours, for example, Hondata is only available for pre-FL manual only (ECU RTW-P02 code). Supercharging may also not be an option depending on which type of FI you take.

Cheers..!