Ya, my new one to RFID fitment center, tested with the signal strength device. My earlier one just stick on by the Honda car SA as a free gift (honda also go RFID sticker).

IMO, the gold standard is VKool Serendipity aka VKool Elite but the pricing is also the gold standard that many cannot afford.

That is the main material used for tints such as Dye, Nano Carbon, Nano Ceramic, Nano Titanium (metallic), etc.

Nano carbon when compared with ceramic and metallic tints are the lowest of the 3 popular group of material used.
Generally it has lower heat rejection when compared to the rest. Cheaper too.

Of course it is generally still way better than dye tint that can fade out in time (dye tints are the cheapest material with lowest longetivity, lowest quality BUT the most affordable).

As for 3K and 4K, 4K has lower VLT (darker) aka better heat rejection than 3K. Many nano carbon has a matte finish that is less reflective and darker in colour.

As for the brand, based on the pricing, it will be most likely a house brand tint of the shop aka no name brand.

My 2 cents only.

This post has been edited by Cavino: May 7 2025, 12:38 PM

A nano carbon 4K tint is a higher performance tint than 3K. Most time, the performance increment also comes from the lower VLT. The lower the VLT, the higher the heat resistance. So usually the 4K tint are darker but then again depends if it is the manufacturers. Rarely tints of different brands are of the same quality.

However if you have both 3K and 4K tint with same VLT, then the 4K tint will be of higher performance. You have to look at the VLT of the tint for "clearer" tint. Whoever VLT is higher, they are brighter.

It is a house brand....aka no name brand, so there is no review, no well known brand backed QC quality like the branded 3M, VKool, etc. The only thing matters for these tints are the cost is really affordable. Unfortunately lots of tints we see bubbled at rear windows, many are these own house tints that nobody can verify their quality. They are really affordable tho..

Even local brands like Irispro, Totalgard, etc has the brand name to back their tint quality trying to established themselves in the industry (building brand name is hard).
Branded tints has advantage of brand backed quality (brand name matters), known usage quality by others, etc.

My 2 cents, if you want good quality tint but not the premium tints, don't use house brand aka no name brands. Just try out any of the branded local tints. No matter what, they still have their brand name to back their quality (haha...no garantee but those with established local brands will try hard to keep to what they say).

This post has been edited by Cavino: May 8 2025, 09:29 AM

No, metallic does not necessarily stop smart tags. As a matter for fact, many high end metallic tints can use smart tag.
It is RFID that are especially susceptible to metallic signal interference, not smart tag.

Smart tag uses a certain range of wave that many tints with very high IRR that uses similar wave affected them.

VKool 70 has issue with smart tag signal but not VKool Elite (front tint that might be using what used to be VK75 or euro spec, not sure now).
3M Crystalline is not smart tag friendly and it is not metallic, it has 200 layers of nano-polyester (mind-bending). So is Raytech best Windscreen clear range Ultra 70 (highest range) that is nano ceramic and yet cannot pass smart tag but their 2nd range nano-ceramic can.

When the IRR is high enuf and using the same wave as smart tag, screwed.

As mentioned VKool Elite with high IRR (not as high as VK70 tho), no issue with smart tag, so is Irispro metallic based tint (highest end with high IRR Diamond X nano-silver/titanium and Diamond nano-titanium range), no issue at all with smart tag (I go thru 7 tolls a day, a mixed of RFID and smart tags), rarely got stuck at smart tag, if any.

From what the IRISPro owner mentioned, they designed the tints using another range of IRR signal wave to avoid complication with smart tag. (whether that is true or not, no idea but as long as it worked great for both heat rejection and smart tag usage, who cares, hahaha).

Do note IRR only takes up half (53%) of heat resistance, since UV is mostly 99% for most good tints (abt 3%), the VLT has the remaining 44%. That adds up to TSER that we should look at.

So VLT darkness is as important as IRR. Those want clear tint especially for JPJ will have no choice but to allow lots of heat thru FWS (70%) and front side (50%).
If you parked a short while or couple of hours under noon sunlight, makes a huge difference to have darker VLT but if you parked whole day, not much of a difference in terms of heat, 15% VLT sunlight will accumulate heat overtime to max vs 70% VLT is sunlight but higher TSER/lower VLT/High IRR just slows down the heat penetration (talking abt heat resistance only).

Now, the protection of dashboard fading, leather seat....that good tints will extend the life much much longer.

Now comes the TSER reading. Even cheap house brand tint can claim 67% TSER vs same TSER of premium tint...you believe that?
Even branded tint TSER calculation sometimes I also doubt.....coz I see higher end tint with TSER 67%, then their own lower end tint also TSER 60++...I also blur..may as well take lower end tint coz also 60+ TSER.

But then when used in real life experience, that premium tint TSER seems to be nearer to as listed but the cheaper one..haiz, some worked as expected...then couple of years, total failure.

So takes TSER with a pinch of salt as well. Sometimes word of mouth or indepth review of existing users matters way more. Better yet, sit in car with the specs you want, see how.

BUT then again....ppl have different expectation, what is great for me in terms of heat resistance might be shit to others that expect higher due to their unique heat tolerance.

For eg. in my house, I feel slightly warm but not hot but yet my wife screaming super hot...I say no way, but then I saw the sweat...wtf....ppl have different heat tolerance...

I am a supporter for VKool except now cannot afford coz too expensive due to this as well.

I still have a 16 years old Civic and 19 years old City GD8, both just change the VKool off last year to Irispro DX series.
The dashboards and interior of the cars are practically as good as new (of course need to take care of cleanliness (oil stain, etc)).

The true test if my 14 years old proton persona that are still using VKool Elite. That car are ALWAYS parked under hot sun. Although the tints heat resistant has degraded now, it is still working ok enuf (for clear tint) and the dashboards and leather seats are still good. It does has some cracks but BUT not from sunlight/heat but the seating positions (natural wear and tear degradation). The side seat leather with sunlight shining on it is still good.

The demister, no one can garantee it will still work when removing tints. It really depends on the demister wear and tear quality, luck, workmanship AND the quality of the existing tint that stick on it.

One of the reason I always insist on using a good quality tint, at least on the demister screen coz try to minimize risk of tearing of demister when have to removing them (theory is good tints can last longer, less chances of bubbling and quality of the adhesive used are better). It really also depends on if the demister lines are weaken overtime....luck and workmanship matters a lot.

For my previous VKool on the almost 2 decade old Honda cars, Irispro removed them perfectly, all demisters still worked now.

As for usage of demister, usually ppl used it when it fogs up badly especially during COLD misty early morning or cold rain/weather. Personally, I rarely used them tho even when the rear windscreen fogs up unless I have to reverse during that time. It will tends to clear up short while during drive with air-cond on. Maybe the minimal use is one of many reason, they don't tear off when removing tints

Well, advanced and getting nearer but for now, I still think high quality metallized tints especially VKOOL are still technically the better tint for me in terms purely from the heat rejection perspective.

Ceramic absorb heat and disperse them when especially when moving (in technical terms), metallized tint generally tried to reflect them out. There is a difference in that in real life application rather than just paper spec. Of course the type metal used, the layering process, material used besides metal, all differs between different brands.

I am bias towards good metalized tint. For VKool, for me, it is still the best but the price is also the utmost premium priced out of many ppl budget (me included). It also last over decade as has been proven by my 3 vehicles that installed them and only forced to change when hit decade and a half when they finally started detaching aka blurring. Surveyed and end up with the only premium local branded Irispro DX series (their silver mixed nano titanium premium metalized tints). The heat rejection is indeed very impressive (after a year).

3M is quite a unique tint as it is neither metalized or ceramic. It is mostly polyester layer, 200 layers of them compressed. Impressive as it gives really good performance and is neither the tint common metalized or ceramic-based tint. Unfortunately it can't go thru Smart Tag mostly, so no go for me.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 14 2025, 09:27 AM

A big amount of heat comes thru the glass/windscreen. So yes, tinting old vehicles (with reputable brands or just use much darker tints if want to reduce cost) still benefits a lot with heat reduction.

My oldest car not as old as wira or kancil but still 20 years old liao. Changing to premium tint and darker one makes in heaven and earth in heat reduction under direct noon sun. Big different. However if you leave car many hours under super hot sunlight, new car, old car, the accumulated heat still hit super high, not too much difference.

In terms of heat reduction, tints just slows down the heat penetration, leave it under sunlight super long, it will still be super hot. But leave it for 2 or 3 hours, tint (tints that worked) and no tints, big difference inside the car.

Heat penetration while driving, tint and no tint also big difference in keeping cool temp inside car. Old car or new cars, the tints will still work.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 18 2025, 07:58 PM

Usually we listed the spec as 88% VLT but I think you might have listed the spec as 10% dark.....aka 90% VLT. Based on the spec AIR88, it is might be be 90% VLT.

So it is likely to be

Air88 FWS - 88% or 90% VLT
PIPL65 Front Side - 65% VLT
PIPL35 Rear Side, RWS and Roof - 35% VLT.

If that is the case then Now at 88% VLT, it is very bright liao. Super high 88 to 90% VLT and VERY HIGH IRR, rare. Have not encountered that yet tho. If cannot pass thru, definitely super high IRR to cover for the high VLT. You have to list the IRR spec of the Air88 tint to be sure,

If super high IRR, then might be screwed for not finding out the FWS spec cannot take smart tag. We usually research that first before installing tint for those with frequent smart tag usage (like me, very essential) and don't want to cut a hole, so always chooses a high spec tint BUT proven to be capable for smart tag usage. Some high IRR uses different frequency that smart tag, so can still go thru.

As for bubble, very hard to say now as the tint are new and wet. Some wet tints installation have lots of bubble initially but will dried out eventually and loose the bubble. This happened a lot for rear wind screen with demister lines especially if it is too wet inside during installation. So having many small bubbles at rear windscreen is quite common if it is too wet. Wait for a month or 2 to see if it goes away. Parking under the sun will help quicken the drying process. Mine also many wet bubbles initially but goes away in 1 to 2 months. If after that still got bubble, then go back to installer for checkup.

The glare is normal for wet tint at rear demister lines...wait till it dries out. It will get better but the multiple lines glare might still be there, just much better than now.

Front windscreen usually no bubble without demister line where the installer can squeeze out all the water during installation.
Side windows should have not bubble coz their easy access for installation mean the installer usually able to remove the wetness bubble more thoroughly. If there is bubble, usually 50/50 chances they might stay there even when dried. At least that is the experience I have with tinting on my cars.

As for bubble at side especially around the frits (dots at side of windscreen) that usually make it harder to stick fully, some will bubble a bit at on top of the frits but usually stayed that way for the rest of the tint life. If bubble gets bigger overtime or interfere with vision, then go back to installer for checkup.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 22 2025, 11:00 AM

VKool in 2006 is using original VKool 70 for front Windscreen (FWS)....thus got problem with smart tag. I also have the same City in 2006 with VKool 70 tinted.

However a few years after that, they switch VKool front tint to Elite series with VKool 75 for front FWS. That is smart tag compatible (but got delayed scanning, thus slow down more to tag in). My FWS has broken twice since then and has switch to VKool Elite on FWS and it is smart tag compatible.

As for RFID, any metalized tints like VKool Elite and Irispro Diamond or DX cannot detect RFID coz metal interfered with RFID. So if you used metalized tint, you must stick your tag on your bumper (that is what I did for my current car with Irispro DX tints) or left headlamp.

I used to stick on headlamp but nowadays even headlamp have metal parts design that is placed near the headlamp clear plastic where the RFID are supposed to be stick thus you have many cases of RFID not being detected intermittently. The moment I switched to bumper with no metal parts near to it, 99% goes thru except for cases of driving too fast.

As for 3M, the only weakness they got is smart tag detection. Most cars cannot detect smart tag signal although there are drivers (Toyota Harrier, if not wrong) that vouch it can go thru for that car. But so far the current Honda City, 3M still cannot detect smart tag signal.

I am a frequent Smart Tags / RFID users, 7 tolls a day and with RFID lanes congested at peak hours at some Kesas toll (specifically at Kota Kemuning tolls) especially if car got stuck, Smart Tags are still critical lanes for me during peak hours. For those that have no usage of smart tags, then 3M is an alternative good options. Of course I would still recommend Irispro metalized tints as alternative local premium options for VKool alternative aka premium metalized tints (I have posted personal reviews on it since 4 of my cars on it as alternative to very expensive VKool metalized tints). It does have the same slight white haze under direct sunlight like Totalgard but in terms of metalized heat rejection, it is one of the best metalized tints I can find locally other than VKool. Used almost 2 years now). My 2 cents only as I am admittedly biased to metalized tints as I think it is better to reflect heats rather than absorb and disperse them (ceramic) them.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Oct 13 2025, 03:25 PM

TSER for heat rejection are usually divided into ratio of 3% UV, 53% IR and 44% VLT.

3M has high IR and UV, so that covered for most 56% of heat rejection portion.
For the VLT portion, having a high 70% visibility means you only block about 14% off the 44% VLT portion with 30% heat still get thru (not accurate but just use for better understanding). Increasing the darkness of the tint aka lower VLT aka 50, 30, 15, etc, will reduce the heat getting thru proportionately.

So if you want minimal heat to get thru, then use dark tints with minimal visibility but for front windscreen, that is quite dangerous or illegal.
So do not expect CR70 or any tints with bright 70% VLT will greatly block heat. What they can do is minimize heat get thru so that your skin won't have those super heat bite/pain or at least feel minimal heat bite when under direct sunlight.

IMO, I don't think Wingard can do any better than the proven 3M CR70 on heat resistance at 70% VLT, so don't expect much unless you lower the VLT further to reduce heat from the VLT portion of TSER.

Even VKool and Irispro metallic based tint that reflect heat WILL still get lots of heat thru at 60-70 VLT. It can't be avoided as the appx 44% of heat comes from how much light you let thru, the brighter the hotter. Just much less hotter than lousy or no tint at all especially with the IR and UV ratio taking care of the remaining half of the heat.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Nov 24 2025, 02:19 PM

No lar...

The material is made of polyester and it compressed over 200 nano-layers.

100% non metalized tint. So I doubt it reject heats like metalized tints.
I don't think it absorb heats like ceramic either.

My 2 cents is that it is likely that over 200 nano layers just block them from penetrating as much as possible.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Dec 1 2025, 05:44 PM