Not many use ring circuit.
Home Electrical MCB, How to size Miniature Circuit Breaker
Home Electrical MCB, How to size Miniature Circuit Breaker
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Oct 10 2013, 02:24 PM
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All Stars
12,019 posts Joined: Jan 2003 |
Not many use ring circuit.
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Oct 10 2013, 03:49 PM
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Senior Member
1,365 posts Joined: Jun 2009 |
QUOTE(Xccess @ Oct 10 2013, 01:39 PM) Bro, a word of advice, please get the help of a certified electrician. I used to work as a electrician many years ago when I was much younger, even with a certain level of experience, I won't touch the electrical box let alone changing of ELCB and ECB. Thanks for your advise, this thing cannot DIY, too dangerous, evenh though I know got to pull out the big black fuse from outside at the meter. There are just too many wires in the DB, once take out the MCB got to mark which pair in the circuit. And if cannot finish work in one day, whole house got no light. Fridge has to be empty otherwise foods go bad.Please take note there's live wire in it unless you shut off from the main electrical board outside your unit. Stay safe. |
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Oct 10 2013, 03:50 PM
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1,365 posts Joined: Jun 2009 |
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Oct 10 2013, 04:04 PM
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12,019 posts Joined: Jan 2003 |
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Oct 10 2013, 07:40 PM
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1,365 posts Joined: Jun 2009 |
QUOTE(Sydneguy @ Oct 10 2013, 12:44 AM) 1) The solution to this particular problem is to add more MCB and split some of the socket to the extra MCB. Any electrician real good and qualified one to recommend?2) As others have mentioned using 32A MCB with writing only meant for 10, 15 or 20A MCB will lead to fire when there is an overload. 3) fire you electrician and get one that gives good advice. |
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Oct 10 2013, 07:44 PM
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Senior Member
1,365 posts Joined: Jun 2009 |
QUOTE(amberglow @ Oct 10 2013, 10:37 AM) You better get a qualified electrician - make sure he is registered with TNB before you engage. Wire-cable thickness is very important ... if the load more than wire can handle then it will overload which leads to wire becomes heated up which leads to electrical fire. How man? The existing DB Box is full and I have so many power points and dont know how it was connected if one wire shares many points. Each wall power socket should not be more than 13A which means your fuse should be 15A. And depending on how your electrician wired up your sockets previously ... some electricians do short cut ... they put multiple wall socket on one wire example one room you ask 3 sockets ... that may be shared with 1 wire 1 MCB ... thus it is no better than an extension bar ... maximum load combined is only 13A. Kitchen appliances such fridge, washing machines, microwave, electric stove, etc. usually will require its own dedicated socket and MCB ... that would be around 20A each. This especially true if you use very old appliances. New modern appliances nowadays use a lot smaller amps - so a standard 13A can support. You better check your appliance power draw requirements and count ... to be safe make sure total amp to 1 wall socket is no more than 13A. If you are overloading ... you have inefficient electric wiring which leads to high power loss which leads to a higher power bill. So when it comes to electric wiring ... don't play-play ... be penny wise pound foolish. Hope that helps. |
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Oct 10 2013, 07:51 PM
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Junior Member
383 posts Joined: Jul 2013 |
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Oct 10 2013, 07:54 PM
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Junior Member
383 posts Joined: Jul 2013 |
QUOTE(stevie8 @ Oct 10 2013, 07:44 PM) How man? The existing DB Box is full and I have so many power points and dont know how it was connected if one wire shares many points. You can get electrician to add an extra sub-board, either next to the existing one or some other place in your house then run 60A or 100A cable from that sub-DB back to your main DB.But I expect that will cost something like RM1-2k including hardware (RM700-1200). Cheers. |
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Oct 10 2013, 08:01 PM
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2,768 posts Joined: Feb 2012 |
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Oct 10 2013, 08:07 PM
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1,365 posts Joined: Jun 2009 |
QUOTE(Sydneguy @ Oct 10 2013, 07:54 PM) You can get electrician to add an extra sub-board, either next to the existing one or some other place in your house then run 60A or 100A cable from that sub-DB back to your main DB. Cost is not so much of a problem. The problem is under the existing box below are a row of switches sure got wire running in the wall.But I expect that will cost something like RM1-2k including hardware (RM700-1200). Cheers. Also, the wires now terminated at the DB box and how to connect to another place without major re-wiring? Even next to it still need to connect and lengthen the wire one by one? This time i want to make sure i know what is to be done before getting electrician to do what he wants or easy cincai job. |
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Oct 10 2013, 08:10 PM
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1,365 posts Joined: Jun 2009 |
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Oct 10 2013, 08:11 PM
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2,768 posts Joined: Feb 2012 |
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Oct 10 2013, 08:23 PM
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2,768 posts Joined: Feb 2012 |
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Oct 10 2013, 08:37 PM
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Junior Member
383 posts Joined: Jul 2013 |
QUOTE(stevie8 @ Oct 10 2013, 08:07 PM) l. Yeap, sorry to say it wont be a simple job.Also, the wires now terminated at the DB box and how to connect to another place without major re-wiring? If you have usstairs and downstairs then most of the wires will run from upstairs to downstairs at the same place, somewhere near the DB, most likeley just above it. Then the easiest solution is to put a sub-BD upstairs near that common location and connect all those wires from upstairs into that DB, then run one big wire downstairs to the main DB. now your upstairs sub-DB should have several spare CB slot, and you will have freed up several CB slot in the downstairs DB. then can add in extra DB as required. In Australia most of our internal and even most external walls are cavity walls, so its very easy to run extra wires. Here in Malaysia the wires usually plastered into the brick wall so have to hack the wall to run new wires. If your super lucky the electrician will have placed some conduit in the birck/concrete wall and you can pull a new wire through that without hacking the wall, but from what ive seen that is very very very rare case in Malaysia. Cheers |
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Oct 10 2013, 08:47 PM
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1,365 posts Joined: Jun 2009 |
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Oct 10 2013, 09:01 PM
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12,019 posts Joined: Jan 2003 |
QUOTE(stevie8 @ Oct 10 2013, 08:07 PM) Cost is not so much of a problem. The problem is under the existing box below are a row of switches sure got wire running in the wall. Cost really depend on the aesthetic, it need to be hack and conceal again. When I renovate my house, I insist minimal looping, and identify every single point that go direct. I have 2 DB Box, one per floor, even separate the ELCB.Also, the wires now terminated at the DB box and how to connect to another place without major re-wiring? Even next to it still need to connect and lengthen the wire one by one? This time i want to make sure i know what is to be done before getting electrician to do what he wants or easy cincai job. My ground floor ![]() My first floor ![]() |
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Oct 10 2013, 09:02 PM
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Senior Member
1,365 posts Joined: Jun 2009 |
QUOTE(Sydneguy @ Oct 10 2013, 08:37 PM) Yeap, sorry to say it wont be a simple job. Good idea to have the sub DB upstairs. But I have to find from photos taken last time. Below pic is the massive wires at DB photo taken during reno 12 yrs ago.If you have usstairs and downstairs then most of the wires will run from upstairs to downstairs at the same place, somewhere near the DB, most likeley just above it. Then the easiest solution is to put a sub-BD upstairs near that common location and connect all those wires from upstairs into that DB, then run one big wire downstairs to the main DB. now your upstairs sub-DB should have several spare CB slot, and you will have freed up several CB slot in the downstairs DB. then can add in extra DB as required. In Australia most of our internal and even most external walls are cavity walls, so its very easy to run extra wires. Here in Malaysia the wires usually plastered into the brick wall so have to hack the wall to run new wires. If your super lucky the electrician will have placed some conduit in the birck/concrete wall and you can pull a new wire through that without hacking the wall, but from what ive seen that is very very very rare case in Malaysia. Cheers This is where the wire from G floor to 1st floor and up to ceiling, i think. Got to go up to ceiling to check this week end. As you can see no conduit in wall. Conduit only on those above plaster ceiling. So have to drill a hole thru the 1st flr slap down to plaster ceiling for the thick cable |
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Oct 10 2013, 09:10 PM
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477 posts Joined: Jan 2009 |
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Oct 10 2013, 09:11 PM
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1,365 posts Joined: Jun 2009 |
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Oct 10 2013, 09:19 PM
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383 posts Joined: Jul 2013 |
Just for comparison purposes here is my current DB. Its quite small, but its only for a 3 bedroom 1200sqft Condo with only 4 AC, 3 of which are hardly ever used.
There are 12 CB. 5 pcs 32 A 4 pcs 20A and 3 pcs 6 A the RCB is 0.3A and the Main CB is only 32A. I once tried to map out which lights and power sockets got to which CB but i gave up after only a few as it didnt make much sense. In particular some CB had both Lights and power socket on the the same CB, which is a big NO-NO is Oz but not sure about the wiring rules here. My the power sockets for the Kitchen, laundry and common bathroom also also seem to be on one CB, since i have tripped it a few times when I have I had the washing machine, kettle, rice cooker and someone showering at the same time. Cheers Attached thumbnail(s) |
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