If 1.6 FLX SE, panjat Genting in D also no problem.

If 1.3, ask v12kompressor, but as far as I know should be more than enough in D as well.

ya... D also no problem..
Ｉjust tried last week...

Just Brought a OBD 2 scanner, to diagnose my car

Anyone in KL interested in a white color BLM manual basic spec with less then 40k mileage on it ? Planning to let it go ~

I'm talking about the fuel injection system, particularly pin point the fuel regulator. I have no idea whether the IAFM itself has any difference. What I'm sure about is the design of fuel rail between IAFM and IAFM+ is entirely different.

No info regarding sensor control fuel regulator on IAFM+. But it's a confirmed there isn't vacuum tube to actuates the fuel regulator on all FLX. As for BLM, the fuel regulator required vacuum suction from intake manifold to justify how much air getting in, at atmosphere 0 pressure(no suction a.k.a WOT), actuator will be fully penetrated and fuel regulator is in full force operation. Refer BLM intake photo, the fuel regulator is located behind the rocker cover, on top of IAFM near driver side between brake servo and rocker cover.



Whereas, in IAFM+, the fuel regulator already built in. Fuel line are directly plugged in. Due to less vacuum operation actuator, intake pressure is much higher compare to IAFM(FL,BLM). Accuracy of vacuum suction are greatly improved since there isn't external actuator(多只香炉多只鬼). Due to this higher intake pressure by nature, the designed of catalyst are different between BLM(lower pressure tolerance). According to Yau Yip Ah Wai, FLX needed 3 bolts, wider platform to hold the exhaust manifold, whereas BLM only need 2. I have no visual confirmation with FLX, but I conlanfirm BLM is only 2 bolts.



DbW signal is not lag, but the engine management is. Will need time to get used to it. Otherwise, do some cheap mod can improve it, provided you're into DIY. Gear oil, ofcourse will have difference, cause all of them using different gear box. All you need to do is read the spec plate by the B pillar at driver door side, you'll know what oil to be used. For me, mine is manual transmission, I don't really give a fuck as long it's not LSD/AT/CVT oil. Refer to my earlier comment, old FL/BLM uses Automatic Transmission fluid, whereas FLX uses CVT fluid.

What year is your BiBa? Spec? If you plan to sell anything higher then Mudah.My, then you need to pelanpelantunggu.com.my. Consumer are not that dumb to buy a car without looking at Mudah.My nowadays. Due to my crappy job nature, I'm widely involved in used car dealing business(despite I don't earn shit from it), if you're interested can PM me. I shall rekomen you to several used car dealer and negotiate for best deal(within KL/Selangor region only).

Don't forget, trade in a car and try to get a new car from those dealers, they also sublet to used car dealer and earn you 1 hand. Hence, those so called 超 high trade in value new car dealer is usually buying back your used car at much less compare to normal used car dealer. U sendiri fikir baik²

Brake pad kasi tukak. On the other hand, check whether the washer plate is still there, if you have recently replaced new pad, could be magician omitted the washer plate.

The IAFM unit by nature doesn't spoil that easily geh. However, according to magician cracking an IAFM could caused by blockage of catcon, too much reverse pressure from exhaust remained in the combustion chamber, as a result reverse firing the intake valve. Intake manifold kena suction(intake) and back pressure than ma crack lor.

Canister purge valve is a consumable part, it's wear and tear. Tauke lover will rosak it faster because the purging process will be more thorough compare to normal driver. ericmaxman to conlanfem

Can

the base ngam ngam fit?
or have to put battery senget a bit?

This post has been edited by sg999: Oct 11 2013, 11:00 PM

Ur viva still got 17k is lucky lo. Mine biba last year they only maksn for 13k, thn i like wtf, but still buy gaga witjout sell the biba.

Not fitting, just plonk on top. Rack also need to change.

to solve this iafm problem in future, we need change the catcon or remove it?

If you're not that hardcore, just drive normally it will not cause such catastrophic damage. If you are,

1) Change intake manifold
2) Change catcon once it sumbat(provided you're a tree huger)
3) Change to high flow catcon(if you can afford, around 1k++)
4) Replace with straight pipe/bullet silencer(not environment friendly at all)
5) Replace whole exhaust manifold + remove catcon(not environment friendly and need to spend more)

Let say now my iafm and canistor purge valve both got problem( got tek sound dy)

i change the iafm intake manifold + canister purge valve + any brand 4-2-1 extractor.

Thats should be ok rite.
Since the catcon so expensive, i decide not to include inside.
i want to keep the car quiet like stock.

This post has been edited by punkLOL: Oct 11 2013, 11:44 PM

i emo liao... CREE 1 side sudah kong...

It could be just the canister purge valve. Try to change the purge valve 1st. If conlanfem no problem, you save some 400+. Regardless, if change ady still same torque dip at 2krpm ~ 3krpm, then only change the IAFM intake manifold. Magician always try to threaten you they'll charge double if you try the purge valve and didn't work. So, it's about time to get a new magician, ask the magician how much do they charge on changing the purge valve alone before let him diagnose. Then baru ask how much do they charge by changing the whole IAFM. Like this ask prolly cheaper than you go ask them diagnose and they ask you change both. Even if I have to pay slightly more to try out the purge valve first, I rather take the risk.

Replacement catcon can be found at Steven, Sri Damansara Exhaust. Ayam using this 1, extremely stock and affordable. Reason being, I couldn't find a trust worthy exhaust manifold out there, provided most after market manifold sensor mounting NOT located at the joints.





How?

my viva is 2009 1.0 ez premium ( chrome ring on speedo and rev ). and i got extended warranty till 2015. ugpm.

what ur viva spec? and i really dun wanna add more vehicle right now, i got 6 car and 4 bike now

suddenly i reach home... the right side CREE keep blinking only... then i take out... whole thing macam meltdown... fuh ! now use back the CV bulb first lor... maybe want buy new one liao...

oh, nice.
Good info.

Thanks for the information.

Later go star wash lo??

Yesterday I stopped my car at Kau Wong Ye temple, so I off the engine then I wait my fren coming....During that time, I off the light just on the radio.....When my fren calling, so I turn the key, rdy to start up engine, around 5 mins....When I started to start up the engine, it can't start, and ...battery not kong, like fuel din coming....So i off all the thing, and take off the key, I put in again, then it can start.....That is weird...

You mean you left it on the on position after yoir friend called? No on acc?
If that is the case the fuel already evaporated thats why it wont start.