I like this one, would be better in black and white with the yellowy highlight toning IMO. Good job!

Like first and the fourth. Second sky looks tad much on clarity I think.

Old stock for tonight spam.

Don't worry Ausubel, we'll survive the rain. by NurAzam, on Flickr

This post has been edited by copperwire93: Nov 6 2013, 08:29 PM

Sure it can't fine tune from 1600 to 2000. But you don't have to worry, my experience of shooting events in yellow dim lights in hall, 1600 is good enough. Just need to get a proper lens like 1.8 aperture for example. And I was using 1000D with nifty 50mm 1.8 much, much older generation of DSLR.
Just need to use RAW for extra performance.

Congrats on the purchase.

Got my landscape filters today. I'm ready to learn something new!


This post has been edited by copperwire93: Nov 7 2013, 12:24 PM

I think it's okay for learning purpose. I didn't get it though, because I bought mine separately with 35mm 1.8G because of my friends' persuasion.

In the end, I missed the experience on shooting at the wide 18mm, composing with 35mm is hard, many time I was demotivated by it. So, lesson learnt, kit lens is okay for starters like me.

Not pro lah, still a noob.
Indeed it's challenging, many times I was disappointed after taking few shots and check them in the computer, too many failed compositions. lol!
It's a good training though, it'll test you to get everything you wanted in the frame.

I bought a set of this, along with other graduated filters and a square ND filter.

DSC_0814 by NurAzam, on Flickr

But it didn't work and I got vignetting effect. lol! Still need to learn about this.

But here's the spams.

By the roadside by NurAzam, on Flickr


Drowned by the clouds by NurAzam, on Flickr

This post has been edited by copperwire93: Nov 7 2013, 08:29 PM

System? I don't know, I bought the set from gstrapinuse. I think it's P system, I don't know. Hehe!

Make sense, thanks for the tip. I'll be careful with the focal length now.

This post has been edited by copperwire93: Nov 7 2013, 08:35 PM

Thanks man! I'm still learning Lightroom and Photomatix, right now only know to mess with all sliders.

Sorry double post.

Great one lah! Wow! I like the graduated sky from yellow sun to the blue.

Rhu Island look by NurAzam, on Flickr


Rhu trees plantation by NurAzam, on Flickr

These are all I can make for this morning shot. Planned to do long exposure but I intendedly came late at 8AM as opposed to my routine near 7AM to test that ND filter, turns out it can't stop enough light for that time.

Looks like I still can only do the shots either at early morning or near dusk.

I'm not sure about the first one, because I did shot with and without GND to see the difference. But, I think it's not because of filter but pp just like the second one.


True this. lol! Worse too many lalang here

I guess I shall go back to seascape and sunset than shoothing lalang.

This post has been edited by copperwire93: Nov 8 2013, 12:15 PM

Thanks for the info. Now that explains why it's extremely cheaper than hitech and Lee's Big Stopper.
I guess it's kinda early for me to buy either those two for practice.

Thanks for the supporting comments guys!

Really hope I can do more water long exposure soon.



Haha! Can't escape from this when we're dealing with tech products mostly.

OMG! Already have D7100, I want one!

If it's P mode, I think the only thing by default the camera will not set it automatically is ISO. Get to the menu and change the iso to auto if it suits you fine.

Congrats on your purchase. Welcome to the club.

You mean the green auto?

Must be total havoc for you.
I think it's best to read the manual first. I don't think it's faulty. You just need to control shutter speed, iso and aperture, but you need to learn about these basics first.

If it's still slow outdoor, I think it's because there are less light depending on where you're shooting. For example, if you're focusing your lens to the someplace in shade, the shutter speed will drop because there is not sufficient light for it to capture quickly.

Same goes with compact, if it's less light it will capture with slower shutter speed but it's not as slow as DSLR because it's consumer kind of camera, it will 'care' less about the quality but rather capture for user demands who want it fast and convenient, thus consequently resulting image blur.

Bogel bokeh, yep.

If the subject is in focus and anything but it blurred, it's bokeh.

The background should be much clearer if you're using smaller aperture. That said however, it depends on the distance too. Say I was using f/22 on my UWA, but I was close to this subject, it is in focus while the background a little bit blur.

I went thru many modifications in Lightroom with the pressure of getting my lappy froze. lol! This is all I can do.

Sailed in sunset by NurAzam, on Flickr

This post has been edited by copperwire93: Nov 8 2013, 09:52 PM

SPAM!

I use daylight white balance outdoor regardless of weather condition. Because with it, I can recover the white balance again if it's shady weather through RAW mode and lightroom.

When indoor shooting events, I stick to AWB or pre AWB settings. Shoot RAW for best WB recovery,

I use Adobe Photoshop Lightroom mostly. If you have Adobe Photoshop CS6, also can do this with its Adobe Camera RAW.
I edit it directly from Nikon's format NEF and convert it to JPEG when I'm done with my editing.

You need a grey card for Pre-AWB. When indoor, take out your grey card, choose pre AWB option, and then point your camera to the grey card and shoot. Now, the camera can neutralize the WB according to the indoor condition and lighting based on the grey card.

This is because, the camera can only see grey or whatever I forgot that tutorial.
Here:

Just any normal grey to your eyes would do I suppose. Need to experiment otherwise especially if you're using JPEG shooting. I used a portion of grey icecream box. It works! lol!

Sometimes, it just not accurate but pick the closest white balance you can get later reedit in Lightroom.



This post has been edited by copperwire93: Nov 9 2013, 11:46 AM