Thank you for the praise and encouragement bro, really appreciate it
I really love macro, because it drives me to really go out to see new stuffs everyday, and there will always be arthropods that I've never seen before And its interesting to learn more about their names, behaviour etc.

Usually macro shooters just stick to F11 or F16. I pretty much stick to F16 all the way unless if I need more light. That way we can just focus on shooting instead of the fiddling with the settings, since every moment is precious if you are shooting a natural (unposed) shot.

There are a few things that affect the DOF based on my experience:
(1) Magnification. The larger the magnification, the thinner the DOF. If you want to get a subject that is sharp pretty much all the way, try shooting farther, then crop. When I first started, I never noticed this haha, so I only shoot at the highest magnifications, which will be a problem for larger organisms, or those that are very 3D i.e. very protruding antennae, legs etc.

(2) Your angle. Although it depends on what you want at the end of the day, if you want the whole subject to be more or less sharp, the general rule is to shoot from the front, on top (or bottom if applicable), or from behind. But this may vary from subject to subject, since arthropods come in a wide range of sizes and shapes. For example:

Shot from top of a Menemerus fulvus:


*this kind of shots will retain the details of patterns on the spider, and is very important if you want to ID the spider  I usually shoot this kind of shots just for science, since its considered as a "bad" or "boring" photo for art (or photography)

Shot from the front of a Menemerus bivittatus:


*this is a very popular shooting angle for jumping spiders (or any other insects) because they have really cute and big eyes (imho la , Agito sifu will disagree kekekeke). Of course, just by looking at this side, its impossible to know what spider it is, so this is more towards an art shot.

Shot from the side of a Menemerus bivittatus:


*Another one is from the side, especially when you want to take photos of insects eating. Because if you shoot from the front or ~45 degrees, the entire subject will be too 3D to be sharp (unless if you follow #1 and shoot from really far away la, which sort of beats the point). For example this shot of a Nephilengys eating a Bactrocera fruitfly:

The blurring in this shot is intentional, since I realized the spider was so big that its impossible to get everything in. If I shoot too far away, I won't be able to show that its a fruitfly. And I can't shoot from the side since the web is very large, if I touch the web, the spider will retreat.

Another general rule: Usually for most macro shots, the eyes (if applicable) should be kept in focus, just like portrait shots 

Just my 2 cents la, still a lot to learn from the sifus out there.
Oil or dust can be pretty troublesome to deal with I have to admit haha, although programs can help you remove them, but when working with a lot of photos at once, there is the tendency to miss them out, until after you uploaded them and being pointed out by people 

this is good
like a summary of ur macro shot experience. 

yeah, is true i always go for the magnification when i shot macro. sometime the lens almost touching the object (sp90 extend out very long)

View of the sunset from my friend's apartment is much better than sunrise
Alot of friggin bugs though, have one trying to fly into my nose every 5 seconds or so on the rooftop. 

[/spoiler]

i like the reflection and overall feel

Great photo bro, I love it
Especially the reflections and the really calm waters

I think there are some rubbish on the grass (sorry if see wrongly haha), those can be photoshopped out
I also think the photo needs something to be put at the front (like how people taking landscape photos of beaches will always put a rock/wood/ship etc. in front). In this case, I think the trees on the left of the frame will do. Perhaps can try shooting closer to that tree?

Just saying haha, again I am noob in landscape shots 

i think he literally means rubbish on grass, not oil spot or dust particle in picture 

dust spot more harder to spot 
unless you shoot in clear sky , or have several clean images to spot it... for my D70s i need put in PC to spot it 

Sorry for another post, but I think this is pretty important, and I have been receiving many inquiries on this, so might as well just put the info here

For those who are interested in getting cheap extension tubes (~RM30) for macro photography, do take note that these are merely hollow tubes which "holds" your lens at a certain distance from the sensor to allow a nearer focus point. There are different types of extension tubes (ET) with different mounts for Canon/Nikon/Sony etc.

[attachmentid=3723658]

Of course, there are more expensive extension tubes (ET) which costs around RM200-RM500 i.e. Meike/Kenko.
The main differences between these ET and cheaper ones are:
1) Electronic continuity between body and lens. Meike and Kenko ET allows the camera body to "communicate" with your lens, so aperture control and Autofocus abilities are still usable.

2) Better built quality: Can support heavier lenses without breaking

Afaik, using cheap extension tubes (also known as manual tubes by some) will cause Nikon systems to enter an aperture mode of F0 (due to the lack of electronic connection) when used on normal lenses without manual aperture rings. This will lead to photos coming out very dark, no matter what setup you use.
Based on what I know, there are only two ways of getting over this if you do not have a lens with a manual aperture ring
a) Get a lens with a manual aperture ring (duh lol), usually the one to go for is the 50mm F1.8D since its pretty cheap and very common.

b) This depends on the type of ET I suppose (don't think all cheap ET are like this). For Nikon systems, the only way to prevent the aperture value becoming F0 is to manually "trick" the aperture controls. Details can be seen here: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=402...&type=3&theater
All credits to Mr. Shahrir Haji Nawawi for sharing his knowledge on this 

Canon systems are easier to use with cheap ET though. One only has to attach a normal lens, set the aperture (say F16), then press DOF preview, remove the normal lens, then attach the ET plus the lens and the aperture will be set to F16.

Verdict for Nikon users:
Unless if you already have a 50mm F1.8D (which many have since it is the nifty fifty ), and only wanted to try out on macro photography (no intentions of buying any dedicated macro lens later), the cheap ET will be good enough~
If you intend to venture into the world of macro photography, then by all means get Meike/Kenko (especially Kenko if you plan on investing in a big macro lens i.e. 90mm/105mm/150mm/180mm etc. later on); the better built quality will reduce the risks of dropping the lens or damaging the connecting plates between lens and body. And of course, there is Autofocus. The AF capabilities differ from lens to lens, although it sucks on the 50mm F1.8g, it works like a charm on the 105mm F2.8 micro. I even shoot with AF now, big change in shooting style

Just sharing XD
Sorry for long-winded

Hi sifus,

I wanted to buy a new lens as the kit lens doesn't provide the sharpness I wanted. Finally step into prime lens.

As budget problem, I'm only able to get 35mm f.18 and 50mm f1.8. Normal usage would be traveling and food photo.

As much research 35mm is all rounded which is good for me since I take various crappy photos(LOL). But I want to hear more opinion on this.

Since food photo is also vital to me, 50mm also a good lens for better close up.

Opinion guys?

Side Question : How to avoid reflection from the food? You know, some oil will reflect the light from the ambient light which makes the photo suckish.. Photo taking with no set-up, just DSLR and in-door restaurant light. Is it I need a filter or something?

if got budget, i really suggest the 40mm macro.
its a nice in between and obviously can focus closer.
used one i seen before RM600, so about same price as the other 2.
of cos u lose about 1 stop, but the sharpness, almost no distortion etc...good trade off right
even 35mm on DX also you will have a hard time.
somehow i still cannot bond with the 35mm...just looks weird thru the viewfinder

If for portraits, then just set the limiter switch la. It'll prevent the lens from focusing all the way down to macro ranges. The speed then is actually quite ok, just don't expect instantaneous lockon la 

For macro leh, when I was using mine, the extending tube is a big problem. The length is one thing already, the extension during focusing can sometimes scare off more sensitive bugs.

Ehh, your landscapes are always so nice leh. 

want ask bracketing is auto stitch photos together one in body or kena sendiri do in PS?

lazy experiment now, doing work, just remember this when i read the manual....

and bracketing photo shoot 3 photos in once... or 3 times after i press shutter, so i need put on tripod or somewhere stable to make body position static ?

Lovely shots as always mate   
I love #2 and #4, especially #4, really got feel to it   

If your lens is the 35mm 1.8G, with the entire set of tubes on, your focus plane is already inside the tube. That's why cannot see anything in focus   

Wah, the Raynox 250 pretty gooding man     
Dayum, here raining whole day LOL. So much for shooting  T____T

First one very nice bro

All the recent discussion make me wanna go into macro

Tail Baiting

Yeah I thought of that too but but but I didn't do it in the end, thanks for the input

Foot Step

Great composition bro, I love it
Why stop your landscape shots bro? Exams coming up?

Wah, didn't know you are into stills hehe XD
I did some lately too, lazy to edit