i think changing to tubeless won't solve much of your flat tire problem... basically flat tire is due to a couple of reasons apart from a crappy tire and inner tube..

1) rim tape not doing it's job
2) hitting a pothole resulting in a pinch flat

yes, the tubeless conversion is a DIY thing from stans notube... but i think you might as well be investing into a good pump, saddle bag and start carrying with you spare tubes....

why i am saying this is that...

1) if you flat a tubeless, you still stick in a tube and pump it up to get home
2) if you puncture a tubeless, there is a chance that you have to change the tire which is not cheap to begin with... same goes with standard clincher, but choices are abundant and prices are cheaper... yes, tubeless might leak air slower if it's there is a small puncture... but it still leaks...

so, unless you are going for tubeless due to lower rolling resistance and things like that... swapping it just because you think it solves your flatting mysteries is kinda bogus to me....

i dunno wat u mean....

out of curiosity, what's your tire PSI?

I see where this is leading to. The excitement of keep on upgrading like my Aluminium MTB is a never ending story. The things that I learn't all these year upgrading my MTB is wear and tear. I realized when I finish upgrade almost everything on my MTB, it's time to change the frame or some older component due to wear and tear.

The reason why I am considering roadie are due to my work commitment where it's impossible for me to ride off road during the weekday.

Good ride experience and feel of a roadbike comes first on top of the rest. I did some survey but unfortunately there's aren't a lot in RM7K range. If say increase the budget for RM10K and below. Any recommendation?

same shit, 1 or 2 years later, when Campag comes out with 12 or 24 speed or some special edition thingy with Super EPS or some shit like that.

Maybe he gets tired of carbon and decides to go Ti?

10k? buy this



JK again

10k you can have plenty of options actually. In addition, 2014 bikes are coming in, so there will be plenty of clearance on 2013 bikes. I got my Scott CR1 at a rather cheap price at this point of time last year.

Thanks for the advice.

I still undecided whether to convert or not, but if the price is right then I will.

About investing on stuff like pump, saddle bag and spare tube, I already done it (even got the CO2 inflator). I bringing it a long with me on every ride since I ride alone usually. And since I suffered few flats on road I already quite good at fixing flat tire(fixing flat tire roadside actually hehehe); thank god I learned about it from youtube before suffering my first flat tire.

Do you know any bike shop that sell Stan NoTube conversion kit? Or at least the Stan tape? If got online website or facebook page then it's better. I like to probe around before making any decisions.

Currently I use Maxxis Detonator on front wheel and Michelin Dynamic Sport on rear wheel. I put between 85-100psi on both tire.

at least on MTB, wear and tear on drivetrain parts and fork leads to reasons for upgrading... frame wise, not so much advancements on MTB unless you are on full sus...

on road bikes... reasons can come from everywhere and on everything which is a bad thing, and especially if you have "good friends" like the few bastards around here...

good ride experience is a very personal thing.. wat you think is good experience, others might think it's crap... so, it's hard for us to determine what is good experience for you....

of course, being a rider already... jumping straight to carbon is the wisest choice where aluminum frames might be a bigger chance for disappointment... but, then again... sticking to budget is of critical for your case...

as of late, my friend was planning to build a bike... brand, not quite that big or famous... just as an example of what might be considered entry level into mid priced bikes for quite a lot of rich fellas out there...

Swiftcarbon RS-1 (RM5k)
Complete SRAM Force 22 (RM3.5k)
Fulcrum Racing Zero wearing Continental GP4000s (RM3.5k)
Full Zipp aluminum cockpit (RM950)
Some prologo Saddle and Bartape (RM600++)

The complete bike i believe will come to a total of sub 14k... which is no small amounts of money to me and if he brought this bike to some of those who rides branded bikes... i doubt they even want to give it a 2nd look...

i am not saying there is no choices at RM10k..but you most probably will stick to manufacturer complete builds... and with a price of RM10k... you might be able to get some past year mid-range carbon bikes built with Ultegra groupset and some not too bad wheels...

for example, i remember the Look 586 with mixed 105 in KH for RM6.5k or something like that... the BMC Road Racer SL01 with Ultegra and DT Swiss 1600 or 1700 wheels for a tad under 10k....

just as a gauge... year end might have quite a bit of old bikes that might fit your price if you don't mind not owning the latest and greatest...

U is forget

no one says, it's impossible... even one can get tired of driving a lambo and wants to drive a honda once in a while just to experience the difference....

why not??? just know what you want and want what you know....

not sure if any online shops sell it... tried bicyclebuysell? or s2hcycle or wanscycle... they might not list it... but, they might ship it to you if they have it...

already bought


and frame comes with




anyways, even with look keo2max... it's only another rm350... not big damage considering the total of the bike...

The pedal.....I shitbricked

85-100 psi is rather low. that's the pressure that you would want to use on tubeless, not tubed. so pinch flatting is a rather likely reason.

the detonators has got a max PSI of 120. try pumping 110 for both front and back.

Whoops

https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/into-sports.../prod93569.html

WHY?

cheaper than SRM crank... just make sure you dun crash it...

http://bicyclebuysell.com/view_item.php?id=207536

BTW

Unlikely, wallet and bank account, not healthy

Ok thanks. Will try it.