Saw 1 guy managed to change from this:



to this:



Looks nice...

hi sifus all,

anyone know how to open this?

You mean open this part or how to remove it from the steering column? What's the prob anyways?

remove it and put it back...that thing loosen aredy...

Remove the horn column on the steering. Loosen the nut inside so that you can take out the steering. Then you can access the wiper & headlight module. Hope this helps...

I have not remove this bulb before, but looking at photos, I guess it is just simple push-in pull-out type. Maybe something jamming the legs.



Attached thumbnail(s)

there is a screw and nut there holding it but the nut is inside and the screw is like nail cant use screw driver...

Hi Everyone, I need some sifus to enlighten me a few thing of my ride... I have a few issue with my Iswara the one with rear number plate at bottom(not really good in specifying the model)

1. The car die off at the 1st and 2nd cold start everytime its like not enough fuel supply to the engine, but the car get very smooth after 30 seconds idling.. anyone face this issue?

2. This issue is terbalik pula, sometimes after I switch off the engine, the engine dun want to mati pula... it will still "Run" a few more round before it goes off...

3. Headlamp is too high! Its not illuminating the floor but flashing other people's car, I tried to ask the workshop ppl to adjust but they said it cannot be adjusted but only have to replace with a new one... is there any solution to this?

4. Does adding a ground cable like the one supplied by EricTioh helps a lot to improve the car like air-cond, engine response and FC? please share your thoughts in here... Because I have tight budget not sure if this upgrade worth or not.


Note: I've gone thru some of the threads and couldn't get the answer for this and its too tired to gone through all the 27 threads, so I apologize if I've re-posted similar issue that has been solved earlier...

Assuming your car is carb engine..

1. Retune the carb & check your autochoke.

2. Ignition timing too advanced / Spark plugs wrong heat range. Go and change to a new set of plugs heat range 6 and ask the mech to retard the distributor a bit.

3. Duno.

4. Helps a bit, not a lot.

Oh yeah, forgot to tell that what I've serviced so far

1. Just changed a new distributor but not Ori and also did some engine tuning, is engine tuning same with carb tune?
By the way how to check autochoke?

2. What mean retard the distributor? by the way its a new distributor...but not ori.

3. Its ok... Because I found this quite special for my case..

4. if its not worth the upgrade I may leave it aside first since my budget quite tight...

Updates : This morning I also just add in gas for my air cond because air cond is not cold and mech suspect compressor got leaking because it seems oily, was told to monitor the air cond, other than that just changed power windows motor also, total damage RM85

Next will plan to change lubricant fliud and air filter with this groupon deal, seems cheap to meEngine Oil Service

1) consider de-carbon the carb, or check air filter/carb idle settings.
check auto choke

2) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dieseling

3) behind the headlamp there got some screw/nut like thingy, adjust the headlamp angle from there.
assuming your headlamp still proton orioginal, the workshop people BS you lol
if non ori i no comment.

4) personally yes, only IF your existing grounding is bad (eg: very noticeable headlamp dim/harsh air cond compressor kick in etc.)
cars over 3-4 years depending on level of corrosion/cable degradation will have grounding issues.

FC not much difference, best if you check your carb tuning, AFR, engine condition/lubricant used, and of course your right foot.

1) non ori distributor gives me too much headache and since then i only stick to proton (APM OEM) original distributors.
engine tuning by right is not carburetor tuning; however i believe most workshop/layman just bunch them both together.

for autochoke you'll have to ask for honest mechanics, get second (or more) opinions.

2) loosen the distributor housing (2 bolts) and adjust the distributor housing angles (towards the radiator direction is advancing while towards the firewall/driver/chassis would be retarding)
look up my post, i did a post of timing advancement for my track day pumping ron 97 + octane boosters

4) find out on your existing grounding resistance is the best to determine if a grounding cable replacement/addition is required (it isn't really an upgrade, more towards restoring lost performance)

also in general, cheap things no good, good things no cheap. groupon... most of them got their terms and conditions/mediocre product/services (you get what you paid for)

1) The distributor I think kena con a bit... my dad took it to service one and it cost him about RM280 for a replacement unit and then I found this is not ori from my mech cause he ask me how much I change that for...

2) Sounds like this steps can be DIY... I guess I have to change a new set of Spark Plug as well ?

3) the headlamp im not sure if it is ori cause i know it has been changed before due to accident and insurance comp service the car

4) Wow, if u say 3-4 years then mine might be in bad condition already since it is about 15 years car... But I need to get the meter to test out the resistance... wondering those mech will test that for me or not..

from what I see, they claim it is ori Idemitsu semi Syn oil 10w40 with ori Oil Filter la... But the 16 points inspection I think they will keep on telling you what parts is not in good condition and want you to change... Btw did u guys change gear box oil every 20k?

Oh yeah, in term of FC so far I get figure around 12km/L with 60% Highway and 40% city drive, I'l light-foot and my rpm usually does not exceed 2.5k except at 5th gear, no choice short gear ratio at 3k RPM only can run at 93km/h

This post has been edited by zero5177: Dec 29 2013, 11:47 AM

1. Never face this thing

2. It "Run" few more mean like the engine still not died even the key taken out?? I faced this, my mech tune back my carb becaus the burn process is not complete before tune, so some petrol left in engine.. That's what he explain tome.

3. If your car use non ori proton, behind the lamp got long screw, can easy adjust there..

4. Planning to install voltage stabilizer as my car circuit not so stable, you can option this too

1) original distributor is rm4xx (can't remember exact, lazy dig receipt lol)

2) yes can diy. no only change the spark plug if it needs replacing; then again they aren't that expensive, so changing them anyways isn't entirely a bad thing.

4) yeap to be objective of your upgrade, do have a resistance meter to test and determine the existing grounding resistance

no they didn't claim original filter, and even if so, rm8 for original proton oil filter, so what?
that particular idemitsu engine oil is not api certified... so be wary if it may be fake EO or just very low level EO that idemitsu themselves don't care about. (synthetic blend/semi synthetic/synthetic technology can be 99% mineral oil and 1% synthetic they still can call it semi synthetic btw)

my gear box is auto, so yeah regular should be around 20k km however i am using very expensive semi synthetic ATF with lubegard additives so i do change in between 20-40k km depending on how much i trash the car/go to track days.

im on ori proton, also got screw part that can adjust level

consider checking your grounding before VS.
personally if you're not going to go serious on ICE you can save the money on installing VS

12 km/l is quite good FC for 15 years old car. Most of us are around 10 km/l or less.

yea pretty much lol...

Sory to ask, what is ICE? My mech tell me to get one of this, after I change my alternator..

in car entertainment (eg: car audio)

you heard wrongly from your mech is it?