referring this post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=62737773

to everyone still on Torque converter AT:
f*** YEAH THE RESPONSE IS BACK, NEAR IMMEDIATE SHIFTS COMPARED TO THE SHITTY 0.5-1 SEC DELAY THAT I EVEN HAVE TO LET GO OF MY THROTTLE WAITING FOR THE DAMN THING TO SHIFT.

phew! words can't describe how i hated the previous proton SP3 ATf. sure, it's cheap, but it can barely survive 4k km and regular OCI is 20k km :/

when the oil came out, it smells like a whole forest fire was set in my AT box... absolutely terrible and seems very acidic. with my fingers i took some sample as it drains out... feels watery and the color is in more orange/amber ish tone as opposed to bright red when it was fresh.

in other words, the oil is breaking down (not fully broken down yet as that would begin to introduce sludge/drying up/flashing already). period.

so now, Caltex ATF-J 3L + lubegard platinum 236ml? filled. my god i missed this feeling SO MUCH.

note:
also edited first post to reflect my recent ATF filling, only slightly less than 3.5L used

hmm maybe have the broken part welded/epoxy back? or maybe modify with boss kit or just get original/oem replacement.

https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=62995808 just finished my AD08R review/write up. hope you guys enjoy them

there is a grounding contact/wire around the latch of the boot, try moving that a bit and see if it triggers. since my latch is damn old and the rear has been repaired a couple of times due to collision/accidents, it's pretty much not in a very good shape these days so sometimes i have to knock/move the latch/contact a bit

ah yea mine's the aeroback so it's at the latch

I fueled-up my Proton Saga, 9.0 km/L. http://fuelly.com/120763 <--- after price hike, right foot also lightened LOL

if it's smokey/carbonish instead of pure petrol smell, consider checking if your exhaust/extractor/gasket cracked/leaking.

https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2938261

- lighten right foot, shift earlier

-what kinda tuning? carb afr? ignition timing? can consider diy also from online guides

- the money you spent on fuel additive will still ultimately cost more overall, and it may potentially harm your engine

- i'm on a very lowered car, nothing much you can do besides not bothering/focusing on opposite traffic headlamps

actually it solely depends on how much throttle input you do, not so much the rpm.

for instance, if you're going up hill, 2nd gear with 4k rpm would save more fuel than 3rd gear at 2k rpm as you need less throttle to gain enough torque to go uphill as opposed to 3rd gear and no power (which requires you to press the accelerator more)

and yes Rear ARB on our saga/iswara helps a LOT

price should be in the rm2xx-3xx not including welding though (no place to mount/screw on)

to addon:

for auto idle is about 850-900 on sticker/factory setting recommendation.

one thing to note is that rpm is just a mere guideline and the most important thing is still your throttle input

key bars for iswara is rear arb to start with.
later on would be front strut and fender bars.

following would be side bar (could be a problem if your car is lowered... it may scrape over speed bumps)/rear upper bar

=edit=
for front strut bar/tower, can consider 3 max, which is cheaper and has 4 point bolt that does not require drilling/welding unlike UR (i'm on UR before discovering 3max so too late for me hehe)

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Sep 16 2013, 08:58 PM

if all you're worried is rust, consider getting patch up paints like eztouchup

full respray with good paint (and good clearcoat) could cost between 1.5-2k or more

my car 14 years old, re-painted multiple times; "value of worth" is up to you to decide.

if you're still going to use/drive the car, of course it is worth it, better have it fixed instead of letting it rust/rot as if that happen, you want to continue drive also you won't get the choice until you get it properly fixed (severe rust to the point the metal get punctured/full of holes etc)

also refer: http://www.ezytouchup.com/
it's not as awesome as they claim, however it'll at least get the spot covered in decent paint/clear coat and it should prevent the spot getting rusted unless it already has rust underneath.

can look up LYN sellers/automotive garage

could be driveshaft, as wheel bearing issue the higher the speed the louder (and more annoying) it sounds
this is assuming you are moving from standstill and as the car is driving normally the sound would be very minimal to none, or when you're doing full left/right full turns.

still, the best is to get a mechanic/yourself to try and identify the actual source of the sound

no pic, basically it's a 4 point, and does not require welding
2 points will be bolted to the parts of your firewall, also don't require drilling.

technically more of a plug and play compared to UR which requires both drilling and welding.
i've done UR, so too late for that already

spring no need.
absorber get KYB if want comfort, drive shaft consider NTN or ori proton. but as we know those would cost a bomb, maybe can consider cheap china brand, around rm200, 1 year warranty dont care mileage, from CNT auto jln ipoh. I just change mine recently for both iswara/kancil, very solid stuff and so far so good. even if it f***up, warranty is there, or worst case, it's still 1/4-1/6 price of an original drive shaft.

also consider changing absorber mounting/bushing as well considering got sound. although best if you can identify EXACTLY what sound it is and replace the worn/damaged parts appropriately than going with guessworks.

personally i keep my front stock ARB stock. lazy change

=edit=
btw, not on honda ady meh? lol

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Sep 25 2013, 12:17 PM