if it's already blocking, i don't think it'll be much different, but hey no harm asking/trying as no weld/drilling needed (but eh you already done it anyways from your previous UR, right? lol)

imho, installing what you do not have, over improving existing would yield more improvement

ok finally dug it out:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...&#entry62366757


thanks to davidke20

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Sep 25 2013, 03:10 PM

few hundred also cheap meh?

all my bars are UR btw... no RSB because i got subwoofer, can't fit. i have rear upper bar so it does help despite the absence of the RSB.
Rear ARB is still the most important piece no matter what

lol i can make ad08r squeal on round about/genting downhill (after test driving sifu williamhoo awsm car)

the side bar is just
passing by road bumps however

got labor fee for digging or not?

bila?

orgy je

cheaper, no permanent effects.
definitely worth a try

sadly i'm on UR and it left permanent effects so no turning back for my case

got, definitely got so long you willing to pay.
for starters, can give a try on EBC ultimax (their basic OEM pads rm140-170 iinm).
then up 1 level, is EBC Greenstuff. slightly better heat/fade resist, better recovery, and biggest improvement is much more quieter/less dust. RRP over rm300
if you damn serious on touge/track runs AND you do not mind brake dust, can consider yellow stuff, which is a bit more expensive than green but the bite is insane. it's semi track/performance pads, bites on cold and bites VERY HARD (our car no ABS, so please brake with moderation ya )
that day was in thundergod_cid 's ride running on yellows, oh wow the bite's AWESOME

as for odo meter, i changed mine, iinm was between 150-250 (been a while, can't remember)
ori brand new from proton part stockist - CK Wong at jln ipoh/segambut

green/yellow stuff is around/more than 5 times the price of your normal saga/iswara pads (rm50-70), however the performance... let's just say, touge (genting/sempah/karak and so on), track days, sudden hard stops whatever you throw at it, it's going to brake with absolute confidence

yeap highly agree

genting a?

keep OEM disc (TRW or brembo or even ori proton) will do
or IMP slotted + drill if you want better braking feel and don't mind faster pad wear/noise/additional brake dust

focus on the brake pads first.
make sure the fluids are fresh/proper bleeded as well.

lol my previous pads 9months habis

for disc vibration, if never skim before, can consider that. of course check for minimum wear rate/tolerance/cracks if can.
do take note changing discs for our saga/iswara will require reinstalling the wheel bearings, and if you're doing it, might as well get new ones, and machine press them properly back in the rotors. and please don't hammer/bang it in, it'll damage the seals.

that is why if can avoid, don't change the disc

i'm on 15" rim too and i can lock my wheels within a second if i wanna jam it. that's how powerful the brakes (on mostly stock standard) are
so have to really balance it out between the brakes and tires.

i tend to do that a lot, and i'm not even worried about the car in front, i'm more worried on the car behind me if he follows too close

for the disc, do check for runouts/cracks/defects as well
may want to check the wheel calipers/caliper pins, servo/master pump, bad brake pad surface (can just grind/sand a bit and re-bed in again) etc as well since vibrations from braking can be of many reasons, not the disc alone.
and if you're really gonna change, do prepare the wheel bearings, more so if you haven't changed them in a very long time.

iinm different. the rear wheel no need machine press, just put it in gently lol.

don't know why people target lady owner cars. from my experience of buying a second hand car lady owner, and my own mom's car (2 of them in fact in which i inherited the iswara)

no. just f***ing no. i have to clean up their mess just because they think its fine to leave an mineral engine oil in the engine for a year as the mileage haven't reach 5k. or like wise replacing out of spec air cond system/parts, never flushing brake fluid, never flush radiator coolant...

and the list goes on. women, GENERALLY (obviously there are some exceptions, hell there are even some girls/woman that are active in motorsports) have this rule of thumb: so long the car can move, don't fix it. the concept of preventive/regular maintenance is almost non existent.

now for your issues:
generally as da best one mentioned (which for the most part, are CHEAP solutions, and its surprising how most people can't perform even low cost/cheap maintenance properly ): hoses
any cracked/leaking/loose ones, replace them

spark plugs, cheap and cheerful, few ringgit. and don't forget to inspect the used spark plugs! then you can determine if your engine's running too lean/rich and can tune AFR without a dyno + wideband sensor

mountings are also cheap(even for original ones), and if they are broken, replace. no questions asked
of course, try to replace mountings AFTER you solved the other issues, so they do not deteriorate your new mountings faster than they should


to add on to dabestone:
i'll assume it is a carburetor engine ya? if so, check the idle rpm, both with/without air cond idling.
secondly, consider spending rm45 to perform carb cleaning

and more often than not, woman will neglect on replacing the car fluids/lubes such as engine/gearbox oil, replacing those may just solve most of your problems

just tune your idling

want my apm with amt coil spring buffer included? sell cip cip cuz i plan to keep the rear springs liao for track purposes

whole air cond system replacement with brand new original denso parts is around 2.2-2.4k including labor.

which part you want/need?