anyone who replaced their headlight switch stick before?
mine lose already when turning signal will accidebtally turn off the head light

Can DIY....I purchased the replacement at RM63 (Taiwan), original japan made is much more expensive (150+).

Installation is easy, just open up the steering cover, open the honk cover to see the nut holding the steering wheel then remove the nut to remove the steering wheel. It's easier if you engage the steering lock first otherwise you have to brace the steering wheel with your legs while loosening the nut...you can use one of the sockets in the cross type tyre opener wrench to loosen the nut...also, when you remove the steering wheel make sure its positioned straight (wheels aligned) so you can just put it back straight when you're done.

For the cabling just take your time and have a look at the original cabling, there is a socket, most probably one wire bypass already (connector burnt) if your car is the same as the rest of us.

should not take more than an hour.

PS:make sure you install the correct copper extension for your honk....there should be a long one and a short one...mine is the 2 spoke steering wheel and it uses the longer one.

You may check on mudah or lelong bro..There are a lots

Any idea how to reduce the vibrations when air cond is on and car is idle? I rarely on AC unless hot day or feeling hot while driving cuz wanna save fuel and annoying vibrations.

yeah i know that.. but include labour?
anyone already fix it?

ive also have the same problem,everytime my car is idle and the AC is on my car started to vibrate and the RPM meter point below 1K, can anyone tell how to fix this problem

i've had a similar problem like this, it seems your timing needs to be upped. somewhere in between 1 to 2 on the RPM should be enough

Anyone knows where to get a good price LMST meter? My one the digital already kong. Please help....huhuhuhu

check engine mounting, consider using less viscosity/full synthetic engine oils to reduce engine sluggishness, and also check on aircond idle carburetor setting (increase the idle rpm after compressor is engaged)

can i ask the air cond condenser fan, shud be infront or at the back of the condenser
my car aircond not cold when in stationary. The condenser fan is at back sucking the air.
but somehow i still think that the fan shud be infront of the condenser to blow it

can any 1 advise me?

it's inside facing towards the firewall side using pull air flow

thanks for reply
my aircond when stationary not cold,
i wonder if i relocate the fan to outside the condenser n blow it in will my aircond be colder?

check your air cond system properly, nothing to do with fan position.

Which the best SAGA variant I should buy? BLM? FLX? SE?
Any suggestions?

not this thread, go to BLM thread

Any 4g13,15 carb users here?

This post has been edited by kryptonite2009: Oct 2 2014, 04:17 PM

What is meant by "carb user" ? The majority of Iswara / LMST engines are using carburettors.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Oct 3 2014, 09:53 AM

Do your check all your fans are working well?
Mine last time is the big fan at the radiator is not spinning at all. when car moving around 40 km/h only spin by the incoming wind.

This post has been edited by caesarx: Oct 4 2014, 09:55 AM

I have tried to adjust this before, lets try it

there are 2 screws to adjust.

1st. (with air cond off), adjust the engine turning screw, when u turn in the anti clockwise direction that make your car vibrate,then turn to the oppsite direction until your car is stop vibrating. OK done, check your rpm

2nd. turn on the air cond, your car should be vibrating now, this time turn the aircond tuning screw clockwise direction, until your car stop vibrating, make sure there is no vibration both when aircond kick in and idle.

good luck

The reason the fan Is inside sucking air is that when the car moves wind will blow inside the condenser as well..If fan in front it will block airflow when car is moving and you only get the wind from the fan spinning. Current set up means more air cooling the condenser when moving that's why when you maintain your speed the air con gets cold faster compared when you are stuck in a traffic jam.

Few things to check would be the ac fan motor (usually need replacing if you've never replaced, should cost about rm150 including labour), other things to check include leaks, blockages, and even the condition of your ac compressor (is there a weird sound when you on your aircon?)...Rather than self diagnose, better send for service of you haven't done so in the past 2 years, some systems due to old age and very very microscopic leaks will have to be serviced/charged every year.

One thing you might be able to do is add an additional fan in front of the condenser to blow continuously, this will help a lot if you get stuck in jams a lot for your car trips.. Otherwise it's pointless since airflow when car moving is much better, and less strain on alternator having to power another fan motor.