if you are super rajin...can sand all...no problem
for me, bigger or important parts - body/dashboard/seat/undertray/exhaust/engine - either i'll sand clean or scrap off molding lines with hobby knife..smaller one (not visible during display) sometimes i don't even bother..just make sure they are primed with good and even undercoat
hope this help

i never tried gundam/mecha building..not sure what kind of finish you're looking for...
so not sure if you need to undercoat > silver > clear red > clear coat...or just until clear red

but one good way is to try spoon test..to train sanding and polishing skill

here's my spoon test
undercoat mr hobby 1000 (2 coats) > color paint (4 or 5 light coats) > clear coat (4 or 5 light coats) > sand to flat/matt color > polish



hope this helps bro

This post has been edited by '62jaguar: May 2 2014, 02:54 PM

sharing, later gonna paint my optimus prime.



i think i get the alclad chrome + mr metal red Gx 202 & metal blue GX 204 is best for prime scheme.
for more.

http://www.pla-zone.com/thread/811

Don't know if this is the right place but I'll ask: what's the best method to deal with yellowing plastic? Some of my action figures (Clone Troopers, figma and Busou Shinki with lots of white parts) are starting to yellow. Some recommended hydrogen peroxide but others discourage against the use by warning that it damages the plastic.

This post has been edited by shrike: May 2 2014, 10:53 PM

allright thank you so much bro i will try it later hehe

thanks for the pictures and guides
when is the next time u spraying? i come over n learn? hahahaha



i tried with alclad chrome and stainless steel
started with mr hobby 1000 primer, then tamiya enamel black and follow by alclad
not as good as i expected, yours look better, whats your method?

try alclad II. it improved version.
btw, i take this photo as reference from here: http://www.pla-zone.com/thread/811

sorry, my bad
i malas write the II, its the alclad II im using

hmm. sometime the photo is way better than actualy product.

so normally for the black before alclad, you use enamel or acrylic?
i was using enamel, and i notice, its easily chipped off

i encounted problem of using enamel, & from that day on i only use laquer based.
for color selection, i use laquer to mix it out.

metal color easi to chipped off, suggest use a super Clear gloss II as topcoat.

ok, this batch i try using lacquer base gaia gloss black

would the super clear gloss II dull the brightness? i remember reading that it should not be coated, especially for those chrome or polished aluminium

for polished aluminium cannot coat. but after a week the powder also will blow away.

for chrome, if u coat the color become darker, but if u dont coat, the color also defect or sticky when touch.

first time build gundam, it was a mg freedom gundam. any vid tutorial on removing the nubs?

hehehe...sure...
when r u visting JShobby bro?

noob question here, can i use normal thinner as opposed to hobby thinner when mixing with paint? are they the same?

Here one of many tutorial on youtube.


Not at all! industrial thinner is pretty strong chemical properties and can melt plastic if not careful. Also paint have different properties like you could not use enamel thinner with lacquer paint and vice versa.

thanks so much, just finished my first gundam

agreed..
normal/industrial thinner more suitable to wash AB, fingernails with paint spots, cleaning bottles (paint mixing)..more affordable rather than using hobby thinner for cleaning jobs
better use proper hobby thinner for the proper paint type..


This post has been edited by '62jaguar: May 7 2014, 09:10 AM

bro, im ok to visit anytime, not too far from my workplace also
only problem is when i visit, pocket sure burn

you wanna do airbrush demo for me at their shop?