what is the effect called?

that effect can be done through air brush, i read it in a blog before, but cant remember the effect, something to do with burn in i think

@ 62 jag, i also shop at jshobby, kekkeke
i see we got quite the same hobby, both modelling and vinyl

ahahah...
maybe we never bumped with each other there
btw the shop owner (i never got his name) said he's gonna carry alclad paints soon...
my vinyl player collecting dust now... so little time, so many things to do kikiki

yup, he told me after i received it from a penang seller
somemore we open up the parcel together
i think the alclad should be arriving next week

the best is able to gunpla while vinyling at the same time

im normally there during office hours though

guy

i got putty and epoxy putty

but i dont know which to use to make a fender to my car model


any pro pro give some comment


thankkkqqq

so today i tried playing around with acrylic paint on some spare parts, and the result was...bad.
although i nv mix with thinner(I know this will make the paint more consistent), but i was wondering whether it could be the paint brush itself since the brush is kinda coarse and rough. my question is whether or not paint brushes have different types like maybe a softer brush or something? some advice needed here

i tot you must mix with thinner? for paint brush, i read before mix with retarder better, it slows down the drying process and lets gravity do its job for the consistent look

For sanding(not sure correct theme or not), which sand paper that you all use?
Understand there is Japan Model Sand Paper that is 1000, 1500, 2000 and others but seen like more exp.
Is there any other alternative that can suggest?

for me (for car model kit)
400 > 800 > 1000 > 1200 for kit preparation before undercoat/painting
then after decal and clear coat 400 > 1000 > 1500 > 2000 > polish coarse > fine > finish
other than tamiya sand paper, i oso buy from hardware shops (50cent ~ 2dollar per piece according to paper grades)

Hardware shop also go by with the same numbers with tamiya sand paper?
Any recommended brand or all the same?

sure got...just drop by your local hardware and ask to show what grit they have..
got Mr Mark, dragon, etc brand...
IMHO, brand not really important for these kind of tools/materials (just to cut/sand off/drill a hole etc) to get the result that u are looking for...the main purpose is to sand off and get flat surface..so any brand can do..if you can afford proper hobby sand paper, just go ahead...if not, find other alternatives and improvise...

hope this helps

This post has been edited by '62jaguar: Apr 30 2014, 02:34 PM

Hi eveyoone i wanna ask a couple of questions regarding topcoat.

1.what are the recommendded top coat brand?
2.Is it okay to aplly top coat on a fully assembled kit with decals applied on it?
3.1 can of topcoat last how long?

1. currently i had used "mr." brand. got 2, mr. top coat and mr. super clear. the 1st is acrylic and the latter is lacquer based.
2. yup no problem. dats what i do.
3. if MG usually 1 kit enough, if HG kit prolly can last 2 kits.

http://www.hobbyhovel.com/2010/08/tips-and...ted-models.html

Thanks for the feedback and the useful link.

I guess I need to get a couple of cans coz i got 2 MG kits that needs to be coated as well as 2 unassembled 1/48 head display. Not to mention im planning to get 2 more MG kits.

be sure to spray in a good hot weather to dispel the frosting effect. if ur on the long run, better buy airbrush set and mix ur own topcoat solution, even better.

http://hobbyartatwork.blogspot.com/2012/01...-questions.html

for my racing car kits, went over paint shop (where they sell/mix house/automotive paints) and bought 2K clearcoat..about 30++ per set...have ration 2:1 paint:hardener and need to add tiny bit of thinner..mix em up and AB

after decal and clear coat, u start sanding again? would this eat off the clear coat and into your decal and base paint?

i tried using the coarse > fine > finish
the item was sprayed primer, silver then clear red
at fine, the clear red came off

pls advice me the proper way
thanks

so far, haven't sand off my decals yet bro...
normally will clear coat (4 or 5 light coats - 10 to 15 minutes between)..then let dry for 1 day to harden..
then wet sand to get smooth and even surface..then polish, after that wax..

the clear red cam off onli a bit aa? if yes, that's normal

This post has been edited by '62jaguar: May 2 2014, 12:20 PM

excuse me im new in model kits i want to ask about sanding in model kits(cars) its must be the whole body sanding or only few part? for the step like 400 > 800 > 1000 > 1200. sorry for my bad english please help thanks

the red came off until i can see the silver, wahahahahhaha

okok , so i need to have a few light coats of clear coat only then i do the process of polishing?
i went straight ahead without an coating

yesterday night doing my virgin spray on alclad 2 paints, not bad, although i was expecting more from it