"VRROOOONNNGGGGGGG............"
".....VROOOONGONGONGONGONGONGOOOOONGGGG"

Says the loud exhaust LMST as I overtake it while climbing up a slope

This post has been edited by dares: Jun 22 2013, 01:48 PM

its the lag of drive by wire couple with the clutch in CVT that contributes to the throttle lag.

cant detect immobilizer chip. Sometimes when eather too hot or cold, Saga electronics will also mysteriously malfunction.

I kena the start car and the door actuator part before. On a very bright sunny hot day, all four actuators wont push the lock down, but when open the door POOON POOON POOOON POOOONNNN...

if you dint change car you can just go...

HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM~

I HMMMMMMMM HMMMM HMMMMM also overtake him liao....That fella VROONG VROONGONGONGONG going 40km/h up the slope summore hogging the fast lane

This post has been edited by dares: Jun 22 2013, 03:15 PM

40kph on fast lane?

Kapcai also can korner faster than that. lolz

Going uphill la....no powah coz all the ponies escaped from that giant straight flow

Neh, that uphill in front of SIRIM after a corner off Bukit Jalil Highway

This post has been edited by dares: Jun 22 2013, 03:23 PM

Try install grounding cable.my flx is install it and it does improve the responsiveness and low speed jerking.

I just want to share this little technical know how with fellow gaga owners here. Previously we talked about changing the stock extractor (headers) to aftermarket ones be it S.Steel or W.Steel

Most of the time when we buy headers we see the exterior most of the time. The weld on the exterior and the bending but most people forgot or do not know other than checking the exterior, the interior of the headers is the most important thing and what sets the few K headers from the few hundred one.

I spent some time today to went to different exhaust shop and snap pictures of the headers they are selling but I won't name the shop out or the brands of these headers (some don't even have brands)

Picture A
Below is 1 of the S.Steel extractor I saw and snap a pic of it. Notice any problem with it? It's ok if you can't see it. I will tell you. Look at the joining point of the runner to the mounting plate on the left and to the right. See the difference? This is something you don't want to have. The left runner is not fully slotted in to have a flush fitting with the mounting plate while the right one is fully slotted in. This little thing sometime is not noticeable but it will make a bit of difference when you put into your engine. Although the left runner was been slightly ported but it still have a step or ridge this will cause air flow turbulence on the exhaust gas. This is clearly a workmanship error.


Picture B
This one is from another local maker. This one you can see that the manufacturer they just weld the edge of the primary runners onto the mounting plate compare to the previous one which slot into the mounting plate and weld on the outside only. A good extractor maker will only weld outside of the primary runners and not weld on the joints as the welded area will have bumps and uneven surface which will penetrate into the inner side of the runners. There's some bad things when you have weld like this. 1. The welded area will crack and opens up after sometimes of use due to vibration, resonance and constant expansion and contraction of the steel. 2. Rust will happens on the inner side of the runners due to the weld.


So next time you go to an exhaust shop to change your headers, please ask to see the actual items before fitting and check the interior part. If it does not satisfy you then just don't change it. Although the part might give you improvement but the part is not performing close to 100% efficiency. If you have the guts and skill then you can buy a better one with only slight bumps bring it home and port it before you DIY install into your car.

Now, if changing to aftermarket headers is not in you list due to price or some other reason there's another way to improve the flow of your stock extractor.

As we all know stock headers are produced in mass quantity and with cost in mind so the fitment tolerance is surely to be higher than those good performance header. Most of the time the exhaust port opening of the cylinder block is bigger than the exhaust manifold (due to fitment tolerance and mass production). Most performance shop also offers only port and polish for the cylinder block but never the exhaust manifold. So below I show you how to port your stock headers exhaust opening to be the same as your exhaust port on the block.

You can refer to the link here to get an idea how it's done.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3603731

After I've done the DIY to my 206 few years back it felt lighter on the initial to low rev. That's what my butt dyno tells me since I don't have an actual dyno. The differences might be small but for a small cc car but every drop of power that can squeeze out will make a difference. The tools you need also not much if you don't have a Dremel or die grinder a power drill will do also and patience. Also due to the porting process you get some venturi aka cone shape effect which is good. Such porting is not popular in Malaysia and mostly DIYers will do it rather than shop.

Hope the information shared here is beneficial to all.

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Jun 22 2013, 05:13 PM

lol....where got golden fish XD actually i was targeting your college's girl

Awesome

the bar got 2 lenght, mine is 14cm lenght got one is 17cm length,,

deng, nice review~!

V12K stalker spotted

Just watched the MCM Singapore episode



Singapore - the car enthusiast's hell

lol...

your rear height lower than mine according to ckdenion

what oo ? i got hentam very fast meh ? i dint release tap release leh...

dont want... convert ur boot better ~

i told u last night... u listen to the taxi uncle say...

haha...XD then drive your fofi already popiah

Is it normal for the mtal bar near our exhaust to become rusted?

And I found out my air-con blower near the filter to have some "tikus" noise,
and told by the worker it is the blower 's bearing problem..

is the air con blower cover under warranty?


Attached thumbnail(s)

Today just DIY flushing radiator coolant and fill with toyota long life coolant.

Go complaint to SC. Looks like preve punya main problem gaga also kena...

after 1 day of driving around with Sachs abs + proride sports spring, it seems that the suspensions like to make mickey mouse noise (squeak) whenever going over humps.. is this normal or the setup above is not suitable ???

I ady mentioned this issue to SC this morning when service my car...
They jet up my car, and I just look around and saw this..
They claimed it is normal bcox the exhaust is hot and when kena water,
it will become rusted..

ur car got this ?