but seriously can get colnago with tiagra just for RM2000...

tarak champion lar, juz need to train harder to keep up wif the faster guys.. malu kena drop.. haha

didn't cut the steerer. but there's sufficient gap between top of steerer to the top of spacer

good advice! but no ones laughin lar juz that myself wanna try follo those faster riders.. fun mah if can follow

wats with you buggers nowadays... cycling should never be a competition leh... jus ride at your pace and enjoy your ride lar...if people laugh at your at the end of the ride because you got left behind, this are the people who you should be avoiding...

if the group is too fast for you.. find a group that is around your pace..

but you said removed as in taking one spacer out of the entire stack right??? not changing positions of the spacers to adjust the stem height...

that should require a bit of shortening of the spacer even though a 5mm spacer is removed away from the stack...

the gap usually is different for different bikes as the design of the top cap affects the gap... try not to knock the star spangled nut deeper before you determined if it is the steerer too long or the nut not deep enough...

agreed 110%

the best groups worth joining, are those that actually cycle at their promised/agreed/advertised pace.

too many times already kena. friends invite to join their groups, cakap slow n steady only.... turn out 34~36 cruising. wtf la....

initially i had 3x10mm spacers below the stem, 10mm spacer above stem.
then i dropped the stem such that i had 15mm below, 15mm above. 10mm removed. with this arrangement, i still had about 3mm gap between top of steerer to top of spacer.
this caused the play.
when i changed the arrangement to 20mm below, 15mm above, no play.

talked to a friend, turn out the design of the top cap requires minimum of 5mm gap. not 3mm.

haha.. "i very slow only"... then they go off sprinting away like mark cavendish...

mentality problems...
as i told you lar.. the indentation on the bottom of the top cap is thick...if you have a flat bottomed top cap... then you might not need to saw the steerer...now, you have to saw a bit and then knock the damn nut further in by a bit...

you reduced your stack mar at the end of the day...

lalter i cari a new top cap. maybe even the complete assembly? CK?

i have 25 and i get stuck as well... the calipers just cannot open wide enough...

solution, just yank it out...the tire will deform to get through the narrow gap between the pads...
usually the gap is determined by the top cap and the top cap bolt length as some top cap has a flat bottom and some has a concave design...so long as the top cap does not touch the nut that should be fine.. it just needs some space for the top cap to compress the stem downwards...

your SL3 fact fork uses a star spangled nut?

there should be a tab where u can close/open the caliper. what kind of groupset do u have?

u just pull out hard? i think you have the same problem as mine, i already open the brake but still can do anything, i need to deflate the tyre, hate that ....

i am using the old sora groupset. can't do anything already open the caliper.

huh... wat for... jus because you dun wan to induce manual labor???

get those KCNC, token top aluminum lightweight caps lar... those are relatively flat ones by comparison... i got my token bling bling ones last time for a mere RM45 only...

yes, force it out as gently as you can is what i meant... not like take hammer and knock or something like that...it will come out eventually..
unless you are willing to spend money and buy some new generation calipers that allows for huge wheel clearances... i think manually is the only way to get this sorted out...

some newer aero wheels even have problems closing the caliper fully...

my FSA headset cap can't cover my headtube fully. headtube OD 52mm, headset cap 50mm. CK's can cover fully that 52mm.