that thing is supposed to dig into the paint so that the washer becomes a base for the calipers to be grinding against...anyways, you don't see the damage done as it is covered up...

if you place the caliper against the fork... i think it might either have clearance issues or the caliper does more damage to the paint than the washer itself... you do realize the caliper moves and goes out of alignment by itself once in a while rite...so, you don't want more surface area from the caliper to be damaging the paint of your fork compared to the little washer...

not necessarily campy lar... you can still use downtube shifters mar

ic... i was surprised to see the washer dug into my frame paint/carbon.

another thing is, the front washer is missing. i think the fella who installed it chucked it away.

woah... kenot la like that.... nvm. ignore...

has it been missing all the while??

i've seen some TT rigs that runs without those washers before... i think they are in reverse and actually have clearance problems running with the washers on or they have problems locking the bolt fully into the threads even with the optional lock bolts

u want classic look mar...

i like to be surprised

I have not tighten my brake caliper strong enough to prevent mis alignment for fear of overdoing it. Where I have to adjust the caliper each time i dismantle and redeploying my front wheels.
Is it possibly to ruin the fork by forcing the issue or should I use a torque wrench and still have to live with the same issue every third tme of usage?

yeap, missing all the while.

but campy got a few more additional tools required as opposed to shimano.

weirdo and likes to be suprised. man... u r an enigma

yeah. good question. i oso wanna know. as of now, i hand tighten it until i can't tighten it anymore (without forcing it). that means, i estimate maybe around 6-7Nm torque. but according to the manual minimum should be 8Nm.

to prevent the bolt from loosening, because i don't tighten it to minimal torque spec, i apply a couple of drops of threadlocker

This post has been edited by miaopurr: Jun 4 2013, 11:05 AM

[quote=miaopurr,Jun 4 2013, 10:18 AM]
ic... i was surprised to see the washer dug into my frame paint/carbon.

[QUOTE]another thing is, the front washer is missing. i think the fella who installed it chucked it away.

[/quote]

From the manual, I saw only one washer that suppose to be fastened together with the nut ma..... Sorry a noob here just curious, wondering if mine had one in the front too. Will look it up later.

if u look at the shimano techdoc, there are two washers. one for each brake.

No, I don't mean the brakes. My mistake, the washer are for the front calipers only.

the caliper isn't a brake? whut?

miaopurr/butthead,

Thank you for the input. I am just really noob in cycling. . Just got a bike yesterday and did 9k today morning as a start using RunKeeper apps..

By the way, what should I check or maintain before/after ride? I have no idea ... Should I send to shop for check-up/service like once a month?

Thank you.

GODAM!!!

1. make sure the brakes are aligned and center relative to the rims, or vice versa. u don't want the brake to rub against the rim when u ride.
2. skewers are properly closed and secured
3. chain properly lubed
4. the tabs at the calipers are closed

service ur hubs every 3000-5000km. tune ur shifting whenever necessary. send it for complete service once a year.

This post has been edited by miaopurr: Jun 4 2013, 12:08 PM

hey .. thanks mate for the tips .. ..

by the way, I have difficult in switching front gear (shifter) ... I am using shimano sora .. im not sure if it rosak or I don't know how to switch .. any tips?

This post has been edited by Seng_Kiat: Jun 4 2013, 12:20 PM

actually.. single and dual pivot calipers will tend to move as you use it... single more so than dual...so, no matter how tight you tighten things up, it still moves and the spacer is there to facilitate it as far as i understand...else, it will just be moving against the paint on the fork...

you can't kill the fork i think... the only thing that gets ruined is the paint job...

as for aligning the caliper to clamp onto the wheels synchronously on both sides... you can always just pull the caliper left or right or if your caliper has an alignment screw which you can make minute adjustments...

the alignment bolt is at the top side of the caliper...on the top side of the non drive side pad...

maybe there is a reason for it... you can try and find the spacer and put it back... best is to find the longer recessed allen key bolt as well as your current bolt might not be long enough to fully thread in...

the thing won't loosen as long as you tighten it up.. if it starts loosening... you experience brake judders already especially on the front as the rear will just push against the brake bridge when you brake while the front the be pulled away from the fork due to the directions of the wheel...

i never use torque wrench on the calipers before... don't think it's needed... i think they just write it so there is no chance of breaking any carbon stuff...

can you explain what you meant by difficulty??

if it is adjustment issues than you should go back to the shop and get them to re-adjust it properly for you...

anyways, the general rule is that you should not use a small-small & big-big combo... (small front chain ring and small rear sprocket and vice versa) as the chain crosses at an exteme angle and you might find it harder to shifter to the biggest rear sprocket when you are in the front big ring... on top of that, it increases chain wear...