Just got home and did a quick test out of curiosity.  With same shutter speed I observe same brightness between these settings F3.5@ISO3200 and F1.4@ISO800.

Raynox DCR-731 wideangle converter

http://www.raynox.co.jp/english/dcr/dcr731/index.htm

pana7-14mm and oly 9-18mm.. or the quite cheap  Samyang 7.5mm fisheye..

7-14mm is superb !!

Thats why dslr still sell very well until now.. 

someone said 7-14mm?


P6240130 by Sonja Inc, on Flickr


P6240088 by Sonja Inc, on Flickr


P6240094 by Sonja Inc, on Flickr

u can get yourself panasonic 8mm fish eye 1..

The noise is due to the long exposure you did with your camera.

Bro, just turn on Long Exposure Noise Reduction in the menu. It must be turn all the time because long exposure noise cannot be fixed in post. It will modify your raw file too. What it did is take another photo with the shutter closed (called dark frame) using the same exposure and use it to remove the noise.

You can try this -
1. Set to manual focus
2. With the lens cap on, shoot something with 30 seconds with Long Exposure Noise Reduction off
3. Shoot another with Long Exposure Noise Reduction on

You will get the idea.

Also, NEVER shoot f22 with m43. The max you will got is f8 and best is to stick to f4 and below. Diffraction kicks in very early for m43 and that's why photo become very very soft. To get long exposure, you need an ND filter.

yes, and dont move ur camera during that period

I'm e-pl3 with kitlens user too...but i wish to get a faster lens first b4 changing body,
though have a tough time to get focus right in a damn dark area 

just back from a trip and the the lens front rim lost 









next time should bring a black card to shoot manual hdr photo 

Nice shots, your "noob attempt" doesn't look any bit nooby at all Really nice

The body or lens first argument is seen like the chicken & egg analogy but to me, a lens is more important than the body (no, i don't intend to start a war here no no ) simply because a lens is more useful than the body it is attached to, just like those cult manual focus lenses of yester years that is still capable of fetching unbelievable prices because of their unique characteristics, irrespective of which body they are mounted to.

A better body only when you have progressed beyond what your current camera body can allow, for example, you want to shoot low light, a newer body will definitely gives a better advantage than an old body, or probably you want faster shutter speed for fast-action shots, a newer body will most always gives you better speed than your old one, so on & so forth.

No harm getting a newer body if you find a fantastic deal though.

agreed, i was stuck between em1+1442 or em10+1240, end up go for the second one. no regret so far, the 1240 is a fantastic lens and very nice to use. can't say the same thing if I went for the 1442 though, since a lens affect an image more than a body does (other than high ISO and focus tracking).