Thanks man.. how much approx for raynox wide?

Guys, nak tanya..

In street photography which involves moving objects (people) in low light condition (night time with some night market lights). How do you go about that handheld?

You bump the ISO up? (noise+)
You slow down the shutter speed? (camera shake, movement blur)

What mode would you use?

Thanks sifus

Thanks man, let's say if I wanna capture a old lady pushing a cart (so she's moving) and I wanna freeze all her movement. And it's during night time with only some street lights and some night market lights.

So in my current understand, I need to : -

with 14mm (28mm equivalent)

- so 1/30 to have no camera shake and to freeze movement, I need to have 1/80?
- due to the fast shutter speed, I need to bump up the ISO to compensate the low light
- to increase light input, I need to lower the F value (lowest 3.5 on kit lens)

Am I correct on above?

And when you said get a "brighter lens", you mean a fast lens (with low F number right?)

Hey thanks bro. I'm not all that familiar with all the terminology but I have some general sense of understanding in this, so excuse my erm terms

But I'm not sure if I've used a wrong term here. Cause in my understanding, to capture movement we need fast shutter speed, this is generally okay during the day with ample light so I could let the ISO at its lowest (correct?).

But in my scenario, low light + movement. So I need to have fast shutter speed to freeze movement and up the ISO to compensate the fast shutter speed. Am I wrong ?

Ah, so people often say brighter/faster lens = low f number. I get it now. Thanks!

And yes, I'm forcing myself to use M as I'm learning. I got below results (which are below average sigh). They all have the same common problem, they're underexposed.

Exposure: 0.033 sec (1/30) (I guess this should be slower since my subjects are static but I worry about camera shake)
Aperture: f/3.5
Focal Length: 14 mm
ISO Speed: 200 (since I shouldn't lower the shutter speed as I might get camera shake, I think I should up the ISO correct?)

You're right..

Exposure: 0.033 sec (1/30)
Aperture: f/3.5
Focal Length: 14 mm
ISO Speed: 200

Keeping my shutter speed, upping ISO 2 stops to ISO 800, would make my photos a lot better. Or I could get a faster lens.

I get it now. I tried on a simulator where it shows my scenario perfectly. A moving subject + lowlight condition. It's hard to achieve sharp noiseless photo with 3.5 aperture.

Too high of ISO gave more noise, too slow of shutter speed gave movement blur. To get in between, I lower my aperture to 2.8, lower my ISO to 400 and maintain my shutter speed.

I guess this is why you sifus pay big $$ for fast/bright lens huh

lol spot on; on the "ISO stingy". I'm a very very picky person when it comes to pixel spotting. I just got my E-PL3. I haven't really did much indoor shots with low lights, so that was my first. I need to fix the WB and the exposure. And I should read my surrounding more. As I'm in a library, movements are minimal, I guess I could go lower and up the ISO to around 800.

It's actually E-PL3 (though not much diff I guess ). The problem is, I didn't use auto it's too warm or too cold..

Bro and sifus, what would be your ideal lens for some nice day light street photography? Candid

nice and i thought DSLR lens are more pricey?

Thanks man. What's your take on wide angle converters? for poor man like me

Thanks for the info but what's B&H?

Guys, would it be good if I invest for a fast prime (20 or 25mm with around F1.5) for low light street and indoor shots?

This will be in addition with my existing 14-42mm(day light and night landscapes with tripod) & 40-150mm (zoom).

Yay or Nay?

lol thanks man. Deep down inside I wanted to get it, I just wanted a push from the back to go get it lol. But am I entirely correct that my current lens set are not allowing me to capture sharp pics on a moving subject in low light / night time condition?

I know can la lol but for moving subjects.. it's gonna be noisy like fug if i wanna capture with minimum movement blur I've already spent a lot of my time snapping my cat with my 14-42 3.5 with low indoor light at around 8pm.. there's really not much light other than some ceiling lights..

If i wanna freeze the cat's movement, it'll be around 1600 ISO or 3200 ISO to compensate the lack of light


well i missed one big point... a built in flash with a nice diffuser might remedy this aye ?

This post has been edited by GameFr3ak: May 14 2013, 12:10 PM

Ya I tested once in the noon where I shot a portrait of a person within a room with thick dark curtain. So there's really very minimal lights. I tested one without any diffuser and one with a piece of white paper in front of it.. the result is superb and natural

Your cam doesnt come with a built in flash ka?

But I guess I'll need to mcgyver various diffuser for various conditions

I guess I'll be up close enough for night shots haha I don't really have much field experience so I can only imagine lol my last trip to the nice PPAS library already proven that I need to learn more with the shitty underexposed pics

anywhere interdasting in KL for photoshoot ar? like a nice church with lotsa indoor details one.. ada kah?

Nothing spectacular, just a test shot with my 40-150mm at max.

Exposure: 0.017 sec (1/60)
Aperture: f/8
Focal Length: 150 mm
ISO Speed: 200

I did it to learn the limit of what I could take handheld low light movement with my camera and lens. I'll be snapping a lot of human subject indoors with limited source of light. I'll check out more on speedlight and flashes. Thanks man.

Hey thanks for the tips. I've just tested some shots with the default flash + a diy diffuser. The result was great (IMO).

The photo was shot at night with low indoor lights. I've tested shots with movement as well. Near zero movement blur, very satisfied.



That's gonna be my next test, to test at what speed I need to be to compensate human movement. I've read a lot about minimum shutter speed for different focal length. For 14mm, I need to be at 1/30 (no 28). And I figure I need at around 1/125 to minimize movement blur.

And I totally agree that movement blur > camera shake. And flash is the way to go. But if I throw flash out of the equation, is a lens with F1.4 gonna save me? It's gonna give 2-3 stops I think?

You may want to look at this

this