boost the iso to 25k.....

Night shots handheld at F11 seems hard.

I'd say impossible. Unless you can find something to place the camera on.

Some things just can't be done (AFAIK). Even with high ISO and image stabilization... might not be enough.

Amazing night shots you got there.

Thanks for the tips.. I hope I will be ready when they came next time...

got to learn post process...but lack of time...usually I do pp after 12midnight!! already sleepy and the eyes also can not distinguish between blur/sharp/contrast/colour thing...huhuhu just use auto in ACR and auto level in PS...

Still doesn't have chance to test the t70-300, hopefully tomorrow not rain like today...

Is Pentax 15mm f4 a good buy? Or should I get a Sigma 8-16mm? I want to try wide angle now.
What is the street price for Pentax 15/4?

i dont know market price...but i vote for sigma 10-20....

but of cos pentax 15mm is prime lens and limited...sure the result is 'over' the others....

Around 3.1k brand new.
But I saw it being sold for 1.5k used.

http://shashinki.com/shop/pentax-smcda-15m...ort-p-8349.html

Mh... who?

@doshka: Try Lightroom. Yes, PS can do everything Lightroom also can, but it takes many more steps, can't be reverted and changed easily, and is just not as easy to use. In most cases you should do just fine with Lightroom alone.

And, well, try to not edit photos while falling asleep

Personally I'd rather get a 10-20 or 8-16... just because of the flexibility it offers, and because they are wider. I'm sure the limited will take great photos, and being a prime it makes you work harder, but 15mm is just not wide enough (not much wider than the 18-55, or if you have the 16-45 even worse). But it really depends on how wide you want to have it. Also, as long as Lightroom is able to automatically correct the photos I wouldn't care if it is a bit distorted or anything like that (besides, you're shooting ultra wide angle photos. Unless you need it for interiors or architecture photography I dare to say who cares if it is not 100% perfect).

I love it when they use tons of fog at concerts... and when you can see their passion... the facial expressions etc. Those perfectly rehearsed big shows bore me

By the way guys, please let me know if you know someone is selling DA* 16-50. New set too expensive. Either used or wait for US cybersales deal again (USD 700+)
Recent trip in Thailand didn't manage to take photos for 2 days after fog began to develop on the inner part of my Tamron 17-50. Weather sealing is very important suddenly.

Maybe I do need a tough lens, judging my Tamron now in bad condition. Rubber also come out already.

This post has been edited by Icehart: Apr 13 2013, 01:04 AM

yes, a very good buy.i used to have sigma 10-20 and pentax 14mm but now that i have 15mm,thats the best wide lens for me.

hello,

spam some blur-blur image taken with tamron 70-300..need to learn breathing technique and do some meditation to calm my self..

this is supercrop




all image below taken using macro ( more like closeup ) mode/switch, plus crop








then I took some flower image...because both birds and insects flew away from me...
this are the flower of pokok pulasan





thanks

This post has been edited by doshka: Apr 22 2013, 07:27 PM

Macros are incredibly hard. I tried to take videos of ants, but it's shaking like mad. Even though my hand was resting against a desk... I was using a reversing ring though on the 18-55.

I think at least your first image could use some Lightroom magic though... it seems underexposed to me. I like those pictures to pop a bit.

This post has been edited by kadajawi: Apr 21 2013, 11:45 AM

It seem underexposed on the monitor at my work place too...but at my own monitor it seems fine... maybe the difference of monitor brightness, which hardly can be taken into account while doing the post processing due to many brands and models...though I agree with the lack of pop!!...

this is the bird in the full frame, taken at 3.32 pm...ehm maybe an overcast sky that day.

That's why it helps to look at the histogram I believe my monitor is a quite decent one There are of course calibration devices, but a bit hard to get and expensive. If it's a work expense fine, if not, I don't know. It'd be cool if there is a rental service for these calibrators, after all you only need it twice a year, maybe once a year.

I think with that cropped photo the histogram only shows something up to 2/3... I mean after that (from left to right) there is nothing. So push the exposure a bit until the histogram more or less extends over the whole area. Maybe not all the way, you'll have to see what looks good.

As for taking photos without shaking: http://www.pentaxforums.com/reviews/long-e...troduction.html

This post has been edited by kadajawi: Apr 22 2013, 12:45 AM

hahaha..thanks for reminding me about the histogram....I totally forgot about it .. now I think I need to enroll in basic post-processing class!!
yup after balancing the histogram, the image come of a bit brighter...need to reprocess that image and check other image histogram too...

that article is really good, had read it before, will read it again....

thanks again...

Which one is better as kit lens replacement?

Tamrom 17-50 2.8
Sigma 17-70 2.8-4

Depends on your shooting preference. Do you shoot in low light often? What is your most used focal length?
By the way, maybe you want to have a look at Sigma's 17-50. I find Tamron's build quality poor. Used for 2-3 years and the rubber for the zoom mechanism came off.

i vote for tamron 17-50. for the price.
and when u buy, pls do chk the focusing...too may issue on front/back focus.

i think the sigma 17-50 new released 2 yrs back. new build. a bit pricey but better quality compare to tamron.