that's nemesis I or II bro ?
seems there're two versions ...

studio ocean mark
extreme anglers
anglers central
prime anglers
anglers outfitters

these are common
ocean anglers ... ain't heard of of it or them, sorry
no sifu la ... still learning

budget rods to look out for ....

berkley cherrywood <RM100->RM100
daiwa d-shock
daiwa spinmatic <RM100
kewl <RM130
lemax RM110 onwards
okuma nemesis <RM100->RM100
pioneer
protech
relix <RM100->RM100
seahawk
shakespeare RM125 onwards
shimano cruzar <RM100
shimano scimitar >RM110
timber wolf <RM100
xpuyu <RM50->RM100

what has been your experience, if any, with (any of) these rods?
good, bad, value for money, unreliable, sucks big time or 'i'd buy the whole lot if i had the $$$'

This post has been edited by acheong7: Mar 1 2013, 11:21 AM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xZjRw_BhXU helped me understand ... behind the scenes so to speak

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4GCH6i5L2I best instructions on FG for me

phew .... beyond me ... for now
reasonable price, i guess

i think you mean(t) saltwater fishing as opposed to freshwater angling
each has different requirements ...

very nice, rory ... personally prefer a shorter butt end with the slant the other way around ... as in when the rod is laid to res in a rod holder, the butt is level or flush with the ground
also prefer non-ACS trigger ... find the ACS a wee bit ... bulky
but yes, salute !

skeletal or two piece seats will save weight, and increase sensitivity, too ... but no idea bout the cost tho'

This post has been edited by acheong7: Mar 4 2013, 04:55 PM

wow .. thanks.
yep, the ECS and acid seats look better ... hahhahaa
found the ACS trigger bulky for my fingers .. handy when i didn't have a hook keeper tho'
wow, i'm lookin at rm75 at least for the acid seat .... mebbe i'll use that for the xzoga blank
ECS' good enough for now
thanks again, rory

understood ... i'll have two used rods (by this weekend) that can be experimented upon

will bring a coupla rods along when we meet up for measurement reference
don't mind waiting for ECS seats, no worries

will send PM .. thanks again

generally, one turn of the reel handle = x turns of the spool
applicable whether spinning or BC

eg 6.4:1
one turn of the handle equals 6.4 turns of the spool
quite easy if you have a BC ... mark a point on the spool ... something not damaging, removable and non-permanent
note position of handle ... slowly turn handle and as you turn the handle one full turn (back to where you started),
you'll see the spool turning that number of times, ie 6.4

this range usually gets one 20+>almost 30 inches per turn (of the handle)
the 6.9:1-7.9:1 ranges generally gets you about 30+ inches per turn (correct me if i'm off ...)
inch per turn = IPT
many anglers prefer IPT figures to ratio as you know exactly how much line is retrieved

generally, again, the higher ratio reels gives quicker line retrieves since more line is reeled in when turning the handle
and the converse for lower ratio reels
lower ratio reels are relatively more 'powerful' when retrieving compared with higher ratio reels
many prefer lower ratio reels for fighting bigger fish
higher ratio reels are preferred when luring

shimano has proprietary labelling, eg PG (power gear, lower ratio), HG (high gear, higher ratio), XG

there's a difference between tightening the drag and keeping the line taut
general rule of thumb, set the drag to 1/3 of your line's breaking strain
eg, you're using 20lb line, set drag for just under 7lbs
need a handy dandy scale for that ... adjust drag accordingly until spool starts to turn around 7lbs
let the drag system do its job

reel drags work in tandem with rods
let the rod do its part by keeping the line taut as you hold it
rod can be used to turn the head of the fish from heading for cover

too tight a drag and your line could snap at any time when the fish runs
too loose and it'll go into cover
many tighten the drag, as the fish nears, to prevent the fish from making last minute desperate runs
this is a contributory factor to snapped lines and great frustration... so near and yet ...

lines are prone to snap also due to poor drags where the drag 'stutters' , ie not smooth
when the fish runs, hang on to rod and let drag do its work
when fish stops, lower rod and reel simultaneously
then pump, ie lift rod
then lower rod and reel ... repeat when fish has stopped until fish is landed
this is where keeping the line taut as you reel is important, otherwise fish could shake off hook
have a fish friendly landing net handy ... trying to lift (big) fish out of water is a cause of broken rods

thanks bro viox .. that's good stuff

This post has been edited by acheong7: Mar 6 2013, 09:28 AM

wow, rory .. that's unexpected ... but welcome news
i'm good with spacers and winding checks
only if it does not entail extra work for you
i'm still good with conventional, no worries
thank you, rory

i feel ya, 1dollar, bro

max, bro ... if you decide to consider the rubber band option, try using braid instead of rubber bands ... neater, tighter, less chance of needing a re-tie ...

bottom, river, light jigging, (live) frogging for haruan/toman, kelong
casting if you have arms like popeye

second viox bro's take ... don't diss the sienna
it's a proven workhorse

as for fish population in dams ...
subject to occurrence or frequency of netting, electric fishing, tuba ...
it'll have fish but one needs to get to know the dam
'investment' of time and methods and myriad baits
find out when the fish are feeding/active ... some will be day some nocturnal
earthworms generally gets you small to mid sized fish
baitfish and dedak generally gets bigger prey

yes, catfish are foragers
sinker size ... depends on baitfish size
say 3-3.5" lampam, carp or other baitfish ... those #1/2 sinkers with a metal loop or #4 oval sinkers is adequate
leader of approx 18-30" will allow the bait to swim freely
too long and it may lead to tangles ... hazards of the hobby
have to find out one way or another hehehehheh

bring along some sulfur if you're going at night
spread it around your spot to deter snakes
mosquito coil just in case
once you're used to night visits, can consider smelly bait
terrain familiarity + general idea of nocturnal visitors will give you an idea, since smelly bait also attracts monitors and snakes/cobras
oh yes, have a sturdy rod holder AND tie down the rod/reel ... just in case

i'm crazy enough to lay out 2-3 rods simultaneously
not because i want fish but i want action and to know what's available and what attracts
1 rod - earthworm
1 rod - baitfish
1 rod - seehum/shrimp/bread ...
i'll walk the edges with handline + earthworm for gobies

This post has been edited by acheong7: Mar 8 2013, 09:55 PM

erkkks, no la bro ... there is much i have yet to learn
i just like to experiment lolololololol

no worries, bro ... we all need to start somewhere
i understand how it is for newbies ... like when i haven't met my sifu yet
forum advantage: more heads are always better than one heheheheheh

the #3 sinker is good enough i think
the sinker aids your cast so you don't really need to power cast
which can sometimes cause you to lose your baitfish ... if it's hooked too thinly
let the rig hang down bout 1-1.5' from rod tip (individual preference)
open bail arm, place line on index finger tip
start from 2'o clock position behind you slightly off center to your right (if you're righty)
bring forward to bout 10o'clock with a gentle snap of your wrist simultaneously letting go off your index finger to release the line
once you're used to it, you can go for the 10-2-10 swing
my apologies if i'm being captain obvious ...

This post has been edited by acheong7: Mar 8 2013, 10:31 PM

concur with bro 1dollar
my initial thoughts were 6.5" 8-20lb ... kinda ties in with long, whippy yet stiff
my friends usually hook baitfish this way http://www.texasgulfcoastfishing.com/riggi...e_baitfish.html 2nd and 3rd pix

1dollar, try getting your rest whenever you can, bro ...
when baby rest, that's when you rest ...

btw, Orchid Tackle in Klang has new 2pc nemesis rods 5.5' 4-10lb going for rm100
only 5 in stock

This post has been edited by acheong7: Mar 9 2013, 10:15 PM