Your torsion beam does not bend when cornering. It twists and shears, but does not bend. At least, it is not suppose to bend under normal circumstances.

Torsion setups inherently causes toe and camber change relative to the ground when the two rear wheels are not moving together vertically, such as when bodyroll occurs.

This post has been edited by dares: Sep 24 2012, 11:26 PM

Don't avoid. It was designed that way Next time you get a Pesoga run parallel with a GaGa, get them take the corner at same speed on the same road, you see from behind then you'll see how the magic works on torsion beam. It just that, regularly pushing limits on the torsion may result in some other parts being weaken/permanent bent/break. When multilinks can use a camber screw to readjust it, but the poor torsion beam.... chamber screw wanna screw where(hello, torsion beam)? Dares's si fut loong

Your banana much better than me

Different chapter bro

guys, any place around shah alam or KL u can rekomen me to get this arm rest with cheaper price? i saw it selling at lelong website for RM78

Morning everyone, I heard my fren he said that Proton car after u finish 3rd service from SC, u no need to go there 4th times, bcoz he said Proton SC and other outside brunch are the same wor....And more expensive if u go to Proton SC...What ur all opinion?Is u all wait until warranty end then no going to Proton SC? How long is Proton warranty btw?

And the other thing my fren, he said Proton use the spark plug is normal, he recommended me to use NGK Iridium IX TR6IX 4pcs, this more power and less on FC.....

This post has been edited by Noobdao: Sep 25 2012, 08:11 AM

This depends on how confident you towards ur car...after 1st three 'free' service, they will start to charge you around RM60-80 labour fees for each minor service...thats why i quit...for this money i can pay for my full sync oil. But is me, maybe i'm little bit lucky, so far no warranted part is malfunction...but dun know about you, your choice.

P/S: If your is latest FLX CVT, better u keep your warranty...

The common problem list for Saga so far i heard is:
1.IAFM. This is more often in BLM on Y2008 batch, after that is less, so i will say it is safe.
2. Power window. Very less for Saga nowadays.
3. Headlamp water leak. FL and onwards with new design headlamp.
4. Rattling problem. You better forget about SC, they 90% can't solve ur problem.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Sep 25 2012, 08:22 AM

Engine and Gearbox 3 years warranty. It's up to you whether you wanna take the risk.

How many years u drive ur gaga?

so far, i don't find any SC besides plotong that i can confident with. plotong sc i confident so far oni taman keramat sc.

This post has been edited by iskazulka: Sep 25 2012, 08:35 AM

Today 3 years 10 days with 73k mileage.

Then u are lucky.....Cant said like that actually, is u protect ur car very well....Btw, the NGK Iridium IX TR6IX got used?

just to share some thoughts, it is understandable adding fsb or rsb will translate into less chasis flexing which can help in handling. But i think its still need some tolerable flex to accomodate b road condition compare to racetrack. Torsion beam axles@twist beam@also known as semi independant setup. As the name suggest, it did twist. Imho, adding too thick stab bar, rsb did alter the flex n cause it become too stiff. I think the original bending n torsion rigidity on saga already stiff to its engine limits n beyond it actually. Unless u plug in 200hp engine in it, the standard still can hold it.
If want better traction, get better tyre, if want less body roll, switch to sport spring originally design for blm or flx which is rare, or change to better strut, maybe adjustable. I think changing rear stab bar or rsb is the last resort.

When original satria neo came out, r3 add fsb n rsb becoz the original mitsu chasis has too much flex which needed to stiffen. While satria neo r3 mk1 based on satria neo no need to add coz it already stiff enough to do the job,unless change to high power engine. By adding fsb n rsb,it will add more weight n put more stress on suspension setup. By the way, if u look at satria neo r3 mk1, they used 17 inch rim, while for satria neo r3 mk2, using 16 inch rim. This is due satria neo r3 mk2 is based on satria neo cps which having changes to its setup where the front track is narrower while rear track is wider compare to original setup.

Every setup has its limit in accepting rims n tyres size. Same as flx n flx se. Eventhough the spring n strut is the same, but there are some tweaking to flx se being done to accomodate 15 inch rim n tyre size. Because using negative chamber setup, using diff rims n tyre profile than original may cause uneven wear coz its never tested on the setup. Remember, the chamber is fixed, so, cannot adjust it to accomodate the diff rim sizs n tyre profile. When being said negative, it means total chamber. Yup,it is perfect to have the same chamber left n right, but there is some manufacturing tolerance when mass produce it unless it is too much, then it is faulty.

And just some advice, product for the mass generally for general used, not track day used. Not denying torsion beam axle chamber can change due to massive force(over limit), but if being set to a sport car like megane, then it suits it purpose. But independant setup is another way around where easier to adjust, but if broken, it cost a bomb.

If want to adjust on torsion beam, need to use machine press n it takes hours to change its chamber slightly coz if press to hard, can ruin the beam.

Just sharing some thought only. Not arguing :-).

Thanks again for the informative post. So the RSB is actually detrimental to the health of the torsion beam? Stabilizer bar yes, but RSB too?

Wa, today xtremely silent...

am here...

just lazy to troll after eating a dead cat...

Then go eat a live cat to neutralize it.

FIXED.

dog + cat = neutral?

Anyway, anyone know how much to change engine tappet?

agreed on the extrimely silent part ..@@