
This post has been edited by coolkwc: Sep 17 2012, 06:27 PM
PROTON SAGA BLM, FL, FLX CLUB V31, Renovatio
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Sep 17 2012, 06:26 PM
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#1
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Just done my meter.
![]() This post has been edited by coolkwc: Sep 17 2012, 06:27 PM |
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Sep 17 2012, 07:40 PM
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#2
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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Sep 17 2012, 06:47 PM) Will not post photo. Next time bring to TT play with Iska's son Next month, lemme settle all the mess 1st. House smells like dead fish. Ueeekk... McDonald's Bandar Sri Damansara ![]() Colourful sticker, 5 colours RM5/box, inside got 100pcs. Anyway, congrat to you and your family. Added on September 17, 2012, 7:47 pm QUOTE(dares @ Sep 17 2012, 07:03 PM) Cannot oh, the LED of the needle is bundle inside the servo motor, can't dismantle it one. I plan to light up the needle only when i turn my key the ignition, however fail to do that, becos the circuit is covered by the motor adi.Anyway, for someone who ask before, it is possible to turn on meter light when key at ignition position. Just I din do that. This post has been edited by coolkwc: Sep 17 2012, 07:47 PM |
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Sep 17 2012, 09:48 PM
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#3
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QUOTE(dares @ Sep 17 2012, 08:01 PM) Anyway, just like mengsuan said during the Persona TT, the ECU speedo is even more inaccurate the the dashboard speedometer. I had to multiply the OBD2 readout by 1.05 to get it to match the dashboard reading. But dashboard speedo is around 1.05 faster than satellite wo, so i thought ECU is more accurate? |
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Sep 18 2012, 12:14 PM
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#4
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Talking about battery, my stock RAMCAR adi serviced full 3 years on last Sunday....
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Sep 18 2012, 12:31 PM
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#5
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Sep 19 2012, 02:16 PM
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#6
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QUOTE(dares @ Sep 19 2012, 10:31 AM) Welcome to the club. At least they didn't blame your LEDs. I am still so pissed about yesterday I have to calm myself down to talk about it. I already told you before, 欲加之罪,何患无辞?The short version of my story is: If you wanna claim your faulty door lock actuator like eqmal's case, remove your ABL if you have one. Those who think ABL won't kacau your wiring warranty, you're wrong. Yea, instead of admitting their parts are defective and low quality, they now actively blame your mods. I told them the ABL is plugged to the alarm, and the alarm controls the actuator, how can the ABL spoil the actuator if the alarm is working fine??? They just simply brush me off telling "ade kacau wiring". I think DRB-HICOM has implemented some sort of new policy and they are becoming increasingly anal about warranty. If they want to kacau you, they will have reason to kacau you. So for those who do insufflex, prepare warranty void for your actuator and power window if you din remove that before go to warranty. |
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Sep 19 2012, 02:43 PM
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#7
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QUOTE(THE CLASS OF 13 @ Sep 19 2012, 01:25 PM) guyz..need some opinion..my gaga have lot of rattling noise on the dashboard..cant find the where it came from but what im sure the louder noise coming from the speedometer area..i think bcos of my daily ride is harsh and also road condition in segamat sucks to the max..any opinion regarding my problem? can it be solved by sending to sc? 3s or 2s? All the rattling noise in the car i solved by DIY, i dun believe SC can help you. They won't waste their time to troubleshoot intermittent problem for your car.last time went for 5k service forgot to explain about this problem..now it getting worst as i can see my horn vibrate with the road condition..dem.. 3 years i owned my car, non-stop finding solution for rattling noise especially dashboard and center console. The main problem is caused by those metal clip of those part and plastic-plastic rubbing noise. Try to use your hand to push the center console and speedometer cover, it will emit 'cit cit cit' rat noise. My best solution after 'R&D' for 3 years is to dismantle those parts, isolate those contact surface/edge by using black cloth tape, and put back/screw back, after that no more such noise. |
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Sep 19 2012, 03:11 PM
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#8
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QUOTE(Fubar20 @ Sep 19 2012, 02:47 PM) Just that DIY is not about expert or not, know or dun know. I also know nothing about my car when i get it, just depends how dare you are. I also panic like sheet when i do it 1st time, just that i die die also want to get it dismantle.That day i DIY my meter light also, can't pull out the needle at all...Just i find another way to remove it, by rotate it anti-clockwise. Added on September 19, 2012, 3:15 pm QUOTE(iskazulka @ Sep 19 2012, 02:47 PM) Haiz, if you are my neighbor than OK la, me stay @ Johor, how to come TT?Sometimes i also jelly you guys one, FSB TT, RSB TT, what kind of TT also got....me have to find my own way if i want to get those thing, so end up DIY lo... This post has been edited by coolkwc: Sep 19 2012, 03:15 PM |
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Sep 20 2012, 09:15 AM
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#9
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Sep 20 2012, 10:53 AM
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#10
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Sep 20 2012, 11:27 AM
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#11
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Sep 20 2012, 11:29 AM
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#12
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Sep 20 2012, 11:34 AM
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#13
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Sep 20 2012, 01:17 PM
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#14
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Talking about LED, if possible change all the light bulb (Tail lamp, parking lamp, signal lamp, headlamp small bulb, cabin lamp, boot lamp) from current filamen bulb to LED can reduce alot of current consumption during night cruising.
Proper design single LED should take about just 20mA max for maximum performance, For T10 bulb got 5LED, is around 100mA only, which translate into 100mAx14.4V = 1.44W, compare to stock bulb, it takes up at least 5W, which is around 350mA. For those signal lamp and brake lamp, 22W, will consume around 1.5A. Anyway, LED should be long lasting, FOREVER never die possible. However from what i see in market now, many of those LED bulb can't long lasting, mainly due to poorly design to get maximum profit out of it. If you have time and want to know a little further, you can read the attachment wrote by me.
LED.pdf ( 18.9k )
Number of downloads: 34 |
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Sep 20 2012, 01:40 PM
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QUOTE(GP mad man @ Sep 20 2012, 01:28 PM) agreed on what you trying to explain even though i not really into elctrical stuff. 1. Those high power dissipation resistor normal come with larger size, so they will hard to fit in + higher cost.now only i acn figure out why those LED burnt so fast however, is very low chances to find a really honest supplier though... haha~ 2. They can use multiple parallel resistor to share the load, however space constraint + higher cost. From what i found out, they normally use those tiny 1.6mm x 0.8mm SMD resistor which only can withstand 0.1W/pc and parallel them, and most of the design is overload design, which finally lead to resistor burnt. If you got chance to get a faulty LED bulb, you will surprise the LED still functioning well. There is little chance that all LEDs will burn in same time one. So i decide to DIY. This post has been edited by coolkwc: Sep 20 2012, 01:41 PM |
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Sep 20 2012, 02:12 PM
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#16
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Sep 24 2012, 04:42 PM
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#17
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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Sep 24 2012, 04:36 PM) Torsion beam itself can crack your nuts no doubt its tough enough to carry weight, but no the 1 on our potong chassis. Torsion rack end is absorver mounting and coil spring housing. However, the tapak drumbrake is a 2mm steel plate welded at the end of torsion beam nia. So, if often go pek kornar, the plate will lean backward, camber out. If pull henbrek drift, camber + toe out But rear camber is -1' even stock from factory wo...i mean gaga... Teoh brothers offered an alternative, managed to save the torsion, but still cam -1' toe -1' both rear wheel. Alignment more than 10 times also no use, can't be fully restore. Better than hellflush, don't care lar. No more gymkhana. Good luck |
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Sep 24 2012, 04:46 PM
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Anyway, now my car engine really can't drive without open music liao...very noisy, tak tak tak tak follow engine rev, i suspect not IAFM, tappet noise? really rough and noisy leh, especially engine rev above 2k rpm...any solution?
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Sep 24 2012, 04:48 PM
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#19
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Sep 24 2012, 04:56 PM
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#20
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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Sep 24 2012, 04:51 PM) That I dunno. We're trying our best to fix the beam, if not -1, else +1. If +1 tayar will bent inward, car can terbabas like Mybi anytime. So in the end after manytimes adjustment(imagine had to take out everything and refix them again to check alignment) we settled with -1'. Ah Hee said, that's the best he can do, I oso paiseh liao since he only charge me 130(so many times alignment!!!). So I guess this is closest to factory liao if your statement is strue. Hmm, stock gaga negative camber is really noticeable just by naked eye la...but -1 is good for cornering, no?Anyway, my rear camber last time adi fixed it @ -0.5' la, because one is -1, another one is -1.5, causing my alignment to lari... |
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