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 °°Official LYN Toyota Prius C Owners/Fans V2°°

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deckbuild
post Nov 9 2012, 11:43 AM

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QUOTE(jscyl1980 @ Nov 9 2012, 11:41 AM)
Our UMW only give free labour charge+E-voucher for 1000 and 5000km service, can choose between mineral, semi and full syn oil, can't bring our own oil, if can bring, i also want to use 0w20 oil thumbup.gif for modern engine, thinner oil always give good performace, FC , and 0w20 oil have better cleaning addictive compare to thicker oil thumbup.gif
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Then u can be like me liao, DIY oil change, jack the car up and drain it. But it's a waste of the new oil that UMW just put in...
RM1
post Nov 9 2012, 12:23 PM

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Speaking of oil which needed to be made known, I hear one case of our national car being serviced by their SC and use P******* oil. So for 1st n 2nd service, mineral oil is used. On the 3rd service, the user selected Fully Synt oil since the next service will be 10k km later. Fully syn should have longer drain intervals by default.

Unexpectedly, the oil failed to provide basic function. Symptoms of harsh engine sound, like a diesel engine began to suffice. Complains to the SC went to deaf ears and get the common stupid answer, "it's normal". However, the user was insistent and lucky for him, there was a SC auditor there. So they went for a spin and the auditor said the unexpected things.

He said, dun ever use P brand fully syn oil and he demonstrated why. Took a drop from mineral and Fully syn and rub them on the fingers for some time. The mineral remained on the finger but the fully syn vaporized or dissapeared (maybe it entered your skin ??). He also demonstrated the stickiness of the oil. Place oil on index and use the thumb to slowly separate out from the index and the mineral oil shows that it has good surface tension while the fully syn oil very quickly breaks off.

The auditor agreed that the engine is not normal and had it dissected to investigate further. Cylinder walls were scratched! Since it is under warranty, a complete new engine was implanted.

It may just be counterfeit oil as P brand oil is notorious for it. But what is the chance of getting a fake oil if it is sold by the SC?


Added on November 9, 2012, 12:34 pm
QUOTE(deckbuild @ Nov 9 2012, 09:51 AM)
Actually it's not recommended to travel long distance during run in period. If you have to do it, try to stop frequently to let the engine rest.
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THe main thing is do not keep the engine speed the same, vary it.

There is another school of thought, which goes against the soft break-in advice. It's called Hard Break-in, notably written n tested by Motoman. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm It makes a lot of sense to me, and I did it on my big bike the moment I got it off the shop smile.gif

The objective is to get a good sealing between the mating surfaces of the piston rings and cylinder wall, and to achieve that, the initial rough surfaces of the cylinder walls are used as a honing tool against the rings. With that said, you only have a small window of mileage before the surface becomes smooth. High engine load is required to get the rings to brush against the wall. I leave the details to ur own reading. The method of doing it is very important, it's not just pedal to metal.

This post has been edited by RM1: Nov 9 2012, 12:34 PM
engah
post Nov 9 2012, 12:35 PM

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QUOTE(deckbuild @ Nov 9 2012, 08:37 AM)
Hi, after my first servicing, my FC from from 28 to 25, same route same condition, anyone experience the same thing? I suspect they put W30 oil in instead of W20.
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For me, I did not see any difference after 1st and 2nd services. I have posted my FC rate since day 1 (April) earlier. I will go for my 3rd service next week.
jscyl1980
post Nov 9 2012, 12:48 PM

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QUOTE(engah @ Nov 9 2012, 12:35 PM)
For me, I did not see any difference after 1st and 2nd services. I have posted my FC rate since day 1 (April) earlier. I will go for my 3rd service next week.
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Me too, almost same FC after 1k and 5k km service, what i noticed just my PC can't drink Shell and petronas or petron fuel(21-22km/L), only BHP/Caltex give me average 25-26km/L per tank for 50% highway+ 50% City drive

mrsfredaz
post Nov 9 2012, 01:04 PM

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If I ordered PC on last Oct, can I get the 3k rebate too? Since I already got 2k rebate.. smile.gif
wankf
post Nov 9 2012, 01:18 PM

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QUOTE(mrsfredaz @ Nov 9 2012, 01:04 PM)
If I ordered PC on last Oct, can I get the 3k rebate too? Since I already got 2k rebate.. smile.gif
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Bro, I book mine on 31st of Oct and I got my 3k discount. But you must ask for it from your SA, if not they'll pretend there is nothing happen. So call your SA and ask for it. If not cancel the booking and get it from other SA with good offering discount like 6 to 7K.

As for mine, SA give me another 1k discount from his own pocket as a gift. So all together got 6k + tinted. Promise to get it week after next, since my bank loan already approve and register number from jpj in progress (waiting for my lucky number which I picked). cool2.gif
louis198920
post Nov 9 2012, 01:19 PM

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QUOTE(deckbuild @ Nov 9 2012, 09:51 AM)
Actually it's not recommended to travel long distance during run in period. If you have to do it, try to stop frequently to let the engine rest.
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oh mannnnn sad.gif looks like I have to be careful..any recommendation on the rest period? rest = off the car entirely?

This post has been edited by louis198920: Nov 9 2012, 01:33 PM
mrsfredaz
post Nov 9 2012, 01:27 PM

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thanks.. will ask my SA, for sure.. hehe
btw, i'm girl.. hihi..
deeplydeluded
post Nov 9 2012, 02:06 PM

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QUOTE(louis198920 @ Nov 9 2012, 01:19 PM)
oh mannnnn  sad.gif looks like I have to be careful..any recommendation on the rest period? rest = off the car entirely?
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Don't be too worried. It's quite difficult for a driver to run-in PC's engine like in any petrol cars for following reasons (my 0.02):
1. PC's engine RPM stays low at high speed, so engine won't heat up easily like other cars
2. You can't control the rev of the engine, it's decided by the computer
3. Depends on the terrain and the battery level, the engine RPM will change even at a constant speed (but not too high though) - this is an advantage in terms of running in an engine
louis198920
post Nov 9 2012, 02:11 PM

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QUOTE(deeplydeluded @ Nov 9 2012, 02:06 PM)
Don't be too worried. It's quite difficult for a driver to run-in PC's engine like in any petrol cars for following reasons (my 0.02):
1. PC's engine RPM stays low at high speed, so engine won't heat up easily like other cars
2. You can't control the rev of the engine, it's decided by the computer
3. Depends on the terrain and the battery level, the engine RPM will change even at a constant speed (but not too high though) - this is an advantage in terms of running in an engine
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so all I can do is just drive normally, stopping at rest station maybe 2 times for 10 mins break like that lor? =/
deckbuild
post Nov 9 2012, 02:24 PM

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QUOTE(louis198920 @ Nov 9 2012, 01:19 PM)
oh mannnnn  sad.gif looks like I have to be careful..any recommendation on the rest period? rest = off the car entirely?
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Maybe you can stop every 1 hr for 5 mins. If I'm not wrong, there are a few that collected car at Penang and drove back immediately to KL?

Anyway if you read the manual, they mention do not drive for prolong period during breaking in.


Added on November 9, 2012, 2:25 pm
QUOTE(deckbuild @ Nov 9 2012, 02:24 PM)
Maybe you can stop every 1 hr for 5 mins. If I'm not wrong, there are a few that collected car at Penang and drove back immediately to KL?

Anyway if you read the manual, they mention do not drive for prolong period during breaking in.
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Also try to vary your speed from 90 to 110, but try to maintain at 90 most of the time.

This post has been edited by deckbuild: Nov 9 2012, 02:25 PM
wankf
post Nov 9 2012, 02:30 PM

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QUOTE(mrsfredaz @ Nov 9 2012, 01:27 PM)
thanks.. will ask my SA, for sure.. hehe
btw, i'm girl.. hihi..
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Hi sis, when r u getting ur PC? What color u chose? My is boring silver metallic.... tongue.gif

Might go for the TRD bodykit at a shop in Puchong which cost RM1300 only but I don't like the front look of it with the 6 LED light. blush.gif
mrsfredaz
post Nov 9 2012, 02:38 PM

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QUOTE(wankf @ Nov 9 2012, 02:30 PM)
Hi sis, when r u getting ur PC? What color u chose? My is boring silver metallic.... tongue.gif 

Might go for the TRD bodykit at a shop in Puchong which cost RM1300 only but I don't like the front look of it with the 6 LED light. blush.gif
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hi.. my SA said latest by end of this month since i chose white color.. hehe..
1.3k for TRD bodykit..? sound interesting.. hmm.gif but have to do tinted first.. laugh.gif
deeplydeluded
post Nov 9 2012, 02:43 PM

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QUOTE(louis198920 @ Nov 9 2012, 02:11 PM)
so all I can do is just drive normally, stopping at rest station maybe 2 times for 10 mins break like that lor? =/
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QUOTE(deckbuild @ Nov 9 2012, 02:24 PM)
Maybe you can stop every 1 hr for 5 mins. If I'm not wrong, there are a few that collected car at Penang and drove back immediately to KL?

Anyway if you read the manual, they mention do not drive for prolong period during breaking in.


Added on November 9, 2012, 2:25 pm

Also try to vary your speed from 90 to 110, but try to maintain at 90 most of the time.
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From the manual in v2:
●For the first 200 miles (300 km):
Avoid sudden stops.
●For the first 1000 miles (1600 km):
• Do not drive at extremely high speeds.
• Avoid sudden acceleration.
• Do not drive at a constant speed for extended periods.


A few stops plus varying speeds on long distance traveling should be fine.
deckbuild
post Nov 9 2012, 02:56 PM

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QUOTE(deeplydeluded @ Nov 9 2012, 02:43 PM)
From the manual in v2:
●For the first 200 miles (300 km):
Avoid sudden stops.
●For the first 1000 miles (1600 km):
• Do not drive at extremely high speeds.
• Avoid sudden acceleration.
• Do not drive at a constant speed for extended periods.
A few stops plus varying speeds on long distance traveling should be fine.
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Also from Manual, can use EO from W20 to W50 for all range of temperature in our countries.
jscyl1980
post Nov 9 2012, 03:02 PM

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QUOTE(deckbuild @ Nov 9 2012, 02:56 PM)
Also from Manual, can use EO from W20 to W50 for all range of temperature in our countries.
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the best still is xW20-30 for performance+fc rclxms.gif
deckbuild
post Nov 9 2012, 03:08 PM

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QUOTE(jscyl1980 @ Nov 9 2012, 03:02 PM)
the best still is xW20-30 for performance+fc rclxms.gif
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Yep, I just bought 4 btl of 0w20, if tonight on the way back can't get 27km/l which is my norm, gonna change them out tomorrow morning. brows.gif
jscyl1980
post Nov 9 2012, 03:21 PM

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QUOTE(deckbuild @ Nov 9 2012, 03:08 PM)
Yep, I just bought 4 btl of 0w20, if tonight on the way back can't get 27km/l which is my norm, gonna change them out tomorrow morning.  brows.gif
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but if morning,nite or rainy day easy to achieve 27-28km/L,no matter slow traffic or highway drive 90-110kmh even im still using 10w30 toyota mineral oil thumbup.gif
deckbuild
post Nov 9 2012, 03:23 PM

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QUOTE(jscyl1980 @ Nov 9 2012, 03:21 PM)
but if morning,nite or rainy day easy to achieve 27-28km/L,no matter slow traffic or highway drive 90-110kmh even im still using 10w30 toyota mineral oil thumbup.gif
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Suppose to be, before oil change I drive at 90kph, still easily achieve. So I will try again tonight =)


Added on November 9, 2012, 3:28 pm
QUOTE(jscyl1980 @ Nov 9 2012, 12:48 PM)
Me too, almost same FC after 1k and 5k km service, what i noticed just my PC can't drink Shell and petronas or petron fuel(21-22km/L), only BHP/Caltex give me average 25-26km/L per tank for 50% highway+ 50% City drive
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Have you try Esso? Or only Petron at your area now?

This post has been edited by deckbuild: Nov 9 2012, 03:28 PM
louis198920
post Nov 9 2012, 04:05 PM

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thanks all sifus for the tip! =)

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