Speaking of oil which needed to be made known, I hear one case of our national car being serviced by their SC and use P******* oil. So for 1st n 2nd service, mineral oil is used. On the 3rd service, the user selected Fully Synt oil since the next service will be 10k km later. Fully syn should have longer drain intervals by default.
Unexpectedly, the oil failed to provide basic function. Symptoms of harsh engine sound, like a diesel engine began to suffice. Complains to the SC went to deaf ears and get the common stupid answer, "it's normal". However, the user was insistent and lucky for him, there was a SC auditor there. So they went for a spin and the auditor said the unexpected things.
He said, dun ever use P brand fully syn oil and he demonstrated why. Took a drop from mineral and Fully syn and rub them on the fingers for some time. The mineral remained on the finger but the fully syn vaporized or dissapeared (maybe it entered your skin ??). He also demonstrated the stickiness of the oil. Place oil on index and use the thumb to slowly separate out from the index and the mineral oil shows that it has good surface tension while the fully syn oil very quickly breaks off.
The auditor agreed that the engine is not normal and had it dissected to investigate further. Cylinder walls were scratched! Since it is under warranty, a complete new engine was implanted.
It may just be counterfeit oil as P brand oil is notorious for it. But what is the chance of getting a fake oil if it is sold by the SC?
Added on November 9, 2012, 12:34 pmQUOTE(deckbuild @ Nov 9 2012, 09:51 AM)
Actually it's not recommended to travel long distance during run in period. If you have to do it, try to stop frequently to let the engine rest.
THe main thing is do not keep the engine speed the same, vary it.
There is another school of thought, which goes against the soft break-in advice. It's called Hard Break-in, notably written n tested by Motoman.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm It makes a lot of sense to me, and I did it on my big bike the moment I got it off the shop
The objective is to get a good sealing between the mating surfaces of the piston rings and cylinder wall, and to achieve that, the initial rough surfaces of the cylinder walls are used as a honing tool against the rings. With that said, you only have a small window of mileage before the surface becomes smooth. High engine load is required to get the rings to brush against the wall. I leave the details to ur own reading. The method of doing it is very important, it's not just pedal to metal.
This post has been edited by RM1: Nov 9 2012, 12:34 PM