from proton rm150-200 iinm.

i got EBC green stuff directly from distro pentagon, rm320. however since it is super old stock (until got rusts on the backplate), got discount until 260 

hydraulic jack rm79 from tesco, very small one however it functions almost like those jacks from workshops, easier to jack cars up.

pictures of jack later la XD

Dear all, 

Wanna get some suggestion & recommendation for the ideas below:

1) Can i juz install persona elegence 15" rims to my sedan iswara without changing the suspension system?

2) If i have to change, what is the suitable suspension spec for sedan iswara? 

[attachmentid=3238904]

The rims specs is p.c.d 114.3(8h) 6.0jj.

So can fit to my sedan iswara rite? 

hahaha im using 195/55, hitting fender all day erry day lolz

go EBC la, once gone EBC, will never look back again. 

super bite, braking power on my foot's demand. very less to no dust.

only con i can see: price. avg 3-5 times the pricing of avg performance to oem brake pads's price

its mentioned to be organic friction material
http://www.ebcbrakes.com/automotive/index.shtml
bendix/rapid stop is said to be same/similar metalic material, and yea my rotor's worn to shit too which have severe braking vibrations when its life is ending.

had to skim my brake disc before replacing with EBC and it is their instruction to skim/turn rotors before fitting their brakes. glad i did though, as the vibrations are now gone
only sad that the previous brake pads worn the disc so much, after skimming the slots are barely there anymore which is a bit of a waste having slotted rotors

if you're on a budget, consider ultimax then, between rm140-200
http://www.ebcbrakes.com/automotive/ultima...ads/index.shtml
http://www.ebcbrakes.com/automotive/ultima...rake_pads.shtml

more dust than greenstuff though
http://www.ebcbrakes.com/automotive/greens...ads/index.shtml
http://www.ebcbrakes.com/automotive/greens...pads_2000.shtml

cold start brakes already bite, no need to heat up. no worries on cold brakes unless you use yellow (higher hp cars, street/track usage) > blue (much better durability and fade resistance > orange stuff (full track use, street illegal)

AFAIK green stuff are rated only 300-400 celcius max.
however i can assure you, our cars can BARELY EVER push the brakes to that limit, and people publishing their brake pads capable of withstanding that value is basically bullshitting unless they have technical data to back it, in which EBC does for their track brakes:
http://www.ebcbrakes.com/automotive/yellow...pads_4000.shtml
http://www.ebcbrakes.com/automotive/ebc_di...ing/index.shtml
http://www.ebcbrakes.com/automotive/orange...ads/index.shtml

FYI: anything above 500-700 celcius = glowing red rotors lol

and yes, there's a few crazy people that brakes their car to glowing red rotors, and they claim that EBC Greenstuff STILL BITES and does not fade even on such conditions (that EBC themselves does not rate/warrant at)
i personally sat in one of such car and that's why im convinced as f*** on EBC.

PS: elton (aka thundergod_cid) also using EBC now.

as many (including myself) says: once you go EBC, you'll never look back.

i posted before i baru tukar all IMP steel braided hoses ma.
personally i think it is in ur head la, tarak improvement. maybe got also i dunno since i just hantam brake saje lol.

i change because my existing hose all cracking. dun wan shit to happen, and i ass itchy wanna change dot 5.1 brakes, which supposedly more corrosive, so sekaligus lorh

=edit=
nah link http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=54668297

ohhh after reading back, some update to that post:
brake faded after genting touge downhill         

rear axle bush lo.
front steering racks/bushes all using higher quality PU ones so far so good la

IMP steel braided hose for iswara got 6 pieces, front 2x each side = 4 , rear 2 haha

i have a few mechs who specializes in different area of my car. i find it better that way

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Added on January 2, 2013, 9:00 pmsigh got in the car last weekend saturday and found a line on my windscreen. car's parked outside home. http://twitpic.com/brt00w

not sure which neighbor/******* did it. originated from a weak spot thanks to a stone chip some time ago http://twitpic.com/brt1z4

Pentagon, distributor for EBC brakes in Malaysia http://twitpic.com/brt2zw
very old stock EBC green stuff for my proton iswara. backplate's rusted,and the sticker looks worn out/color faded http://twitpic.com/brt3k3

skimming my brake rotors as per EBC's instructions. look at the grinded brake disc rotor dusts o_O http://twitpic.com/brt47j

protip: try to avoid car parking when your bowels aren't at their best. thankfully i didn't shat my pants ^^; http://twitpic.com/brt50a

Gasket silicone for my new engine mounting strengthening DIY project http://twitpic.com/brt6cd

Original proton iswara engine torque mounting parts http://twitpic.com/brt7dn

After done 1 side on each mounting. 1 tube of that gasket silicone is barely enough for both mountings ^^; http://twitpic.com/brt8r5

bought new car jack for my engine exhaust wrapping DIY project http://twitpic.com/brt9jq

Any sifu knew how to settle the rear axle noises for iswara....

refer to my previous post on axle bush replacement.

parts cheap, however labor is the one cost a lot as it takes a damn long time to do

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Added on January 3, 2013, 3:57 am

what is your axle problem? noise? replaced bush already? if yes identify where is the noise actually coming from
get someone, preferably a skilled mechanic to sit in (yes im not joking, get your rear seats lowered) your trunk or rear side to listen

drive shaft what problem? cv joint broken? middle shaft unbalanced? leaking ATF/gear oil?
if only cv joint issue just change accordingly.
if middle shaft unbalanced/leaking ATF or gear oil, might as well change the whole thing

original proton is rm800 to over 1k iinm
OEM NTN is like 500-700? IINM
then anything cheaper are ciplaks already

changing bush is better than whole axle as you're gambling with half cut quality. that said, if you do change original proton, that is a different story. pricing also different story
at least if issue reoccur, it's just the bush, not the whole axle (ei metal expensive you know? lol)

Already installed it 195/55 tyre.. ngam2 & very nice2 lor! 

Bought from a fren rm600 with 195/60 tyres.
Whats is EBC? Sorry noob here 

if your sound only comes out during turns, rear axle won't cause it. that is most likely drive shaft CV joint. skilled mechanic can easily identify/point it out

=edit=
you try use logic and apply:
- sound only comes when you turn
- rear axle CANNOT turn, only goes straight

to confirm if it is indeed coming from back (and to identify if it is left/right, or both):
lower your rear seats, get someone with decent sense of hearing to sit around the wheel/trunk area (obviously they have to be lying down, trunk fairly cleared for them to maneuver around)

do drive gently especially going over road bumps so you dont bang your assistant ya (or you can listen while they drive instead vice versa)

chances are it could even be faulty/leaking drum brake pump causing rear drum brake drag. which could produce VERY similar sound at low speeds as higher speeds the drag gets less as you're forcibly pushing the wheels (however that would mean very fast drum brake fade/worn and that's actually dangerous!)

it could also be rear absorber leaking, causing the rear to be lowered, and chances are your tires may be hitting the chassis, or the chassis hitting road bumps/obstacles (like mine, car too f***ing low  )

many reasons/root cause, so need troubleshoot it, pin point and tackle the problem precisely
(and that's why having separate mechanics who are experts in their own field ALWAYS help than having a jack of all trades )

d price seems normal. but wats siren n alarm? i guess alarm refers to d system. siren is d pembesar suara..

ermm..d cover if u wan, need mod..
halfcut?huhu
dun see y cannot..huhu

along with many other HARD brakings, and even a 150/kmh until under 10 km/h... http://twitpic.com/buvers

just to do a U-turn under MRR2... finally noticeable brake dusts. wheels very smelly from all the heavy braking http://twitpic.com/buvfd5

EBC recommends to get the rotors turned/skimmed prior to fitting new brake pads. or if its too thin (due to previous skimming/wraped), get it replaced
if you're on solid disc, no harm on skimming. hell, i skimmed mine despite the drill/slots heh.

for better/bigger brake updates, either change the calipers to more pistons or even have bigger ones (including more pistons) however for iswara, typically need to mod the entire mounting/wheel hub etc instead
so i opt for the current setup. mod within what i can on plug and play solutions
nothing radical.

skim rotors both sides rm70

EBC greenstuff original price is rm320. i got mine for 260 after nego due to very old stock + heavy rust on the pads already.

Pentagon is the sole distributor for EBC for Malaysia and i got my pads directly from there.

Did you check whether the AT fluid is sufficient and in good condition? When was the last time you changed the AT fluid?

few years ago yeah.

but now i use Q8 semi syn ATF and lubegard platinum. (around/over RM300 per ATF fluid change lol)
so... yeah.

these days i play my auto stick as if its manual, ill just call it semi auto.
down shift gear 1/2 (d being 3rd and final gear lol) whack corners, genting etc lol.

did ATF flush before?
or ATF filter change? (need to open up the sump, and replace the gasket as well)

=edit=
my ATF OCI is 20k km or 6 months (considering i drive heavily, my mileage always reaches first)

i am considering to extend it 30k km or so because my ATF is ALWAYS crystal clear with no residue or whatsoever upon drain. feels like a waste considering my per ATF OCI is around/more than rm300