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 LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Drivers' Forum! V26, Keeping up with the others for over 27

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evolution120
post Jan 21 2013, 11:59 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jan 21 2013, 11:11 PM)
hmm no experience in that. however if you want the surest safe method: get proton genuine wink.gif
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Man that's so freaking expensive lol.

Now I still have the sound.. Suspect either from left driveshaft or axle..
evolution120
post Jan 22 2013, 01:33 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jan 22 2013, 01:19 AM)
kinda why i spent so much on my car, most of my parts i replaced are brand new original from proton lol.
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yeah, i know i also planned to get stuffs from glenmarie proton..

but i doubt they still have this original axle for iswara.. even new taiwan set also hard to find ady lol..

this axle replacement is paid by my dad, and my dad type is = as long it works fine, then okay regardless of the manufacturer origin (except for brake pads and steering related stuffs, where insist on getting genuine stuffs)

if im not wrong, the proton parts center is just infront of ups shipping..

This post has been edited by evolution120: Jan 22 2013, 01:34 AM
evolution120
post Jan 22 2013, 01:51 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jan 22 2013, 01:41 AM)
i just get from ck wong shop. glenmarie proton sells at RRP aka more expensive lol. give a call to ck wong first, if dont have, and they cant help on ordering, then check at glenmarie.

for brakes/steering (or i suppose you mean suspension?) related stuff, if you drive normally, very rare emergency brakes and always under 100 etc, original is fine.
but if you do intend to drive fast, i can tell you original are not up to par smile.gif

i cant remember if there is a ups hub in front of the parts center, but it is fairly easy to reach with sign boards/gps
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nope, specifically, brake pads and steering related only.. (i think he meant the steering rods, joints etc)

this is why i bought bendix ultimate and mod rear disc for my ride, i got scolded.

ofcz, due to my aggressive driving style, i dont think stock meet my requirement.. even current state also just meet my requirement only.. i planned to get steel belted brake hose.. but lets just put that side first.

not sure if my memory served me correctly or not.. but anyways, later imma going to another workshop to get my axle solved.. see what the mechs say first..
evolution120
post Jan 22 2013, 07:02 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jan 22 2013, 02:31 AM)
just so you know, original rubber steering rack and bush are made from softer rubber, meant for comfort, not so much durability and stiff ride for better suspension feedback/reduced body roll.
mine's all PU btw

the rear disc, with all things considered, id prolly scold you too if im a parent tongue.gif
one thing is i couldn't get a firm answer/confirmation on the brake distribution ratio, and you kinda need custom rotors for the job. you're kinda left in the mercy of the installer unless you know someone else who can do the same job lol. (what if he no longer wants to provide support/servicing in the future? )
ultimately, considering my tight schedule, that is what made the final decision calling since he couldn't cope with my schedule lol

the steel hose also, i mainly get it because my existing hoses are crumbling on the outside (hardened rubber lol)
and i wanted to try dot 5.1 brake fluid
honestly i dont think they really yield much benefit considering the price paid. and you really utilize dot 5.1 fluid's thermal benefits, you need you brake consistently around 500-600 ish celcius or more.
our car in stock conditions is 100% not capable of performing it. unless you wanna try genting down hill non stop brake and accelerating at the same time. then MAYBE you could achieve it provided either you (lets hope not, or at least it only involves you and not another innocent motorist) or your brakes are still alive.
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well, at least the rear brake saved my life plenty of times.. i would say my braking ratio now is about 60-40 or 55-45 +-.. just assume my car has EBD lolx.. but what if i go for oversized front brake, i think it would change from 70-30 to 85-15+-..

finally, just now went to another garage to check out my axle thingy, the old man mech said either bushing issues or worse come to worse, the steel rod thingy inside the axle is the main problem which causes the problem.

talking about genting, whenever i go genting, i also drive like initial d style lolx.. (except the drift) this is why good brakes r required.. last time full stock time, i skidded like shit during downhill.. now, hardly skid any more.

btw, if i finished my psn game that i bought from the user as 2nd hand or 3rd hand, can i still resell it as 4th hand to other player?
evolution120
post Mar 20 2013, 02:26 PM

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i was always wondering does ARB really helps for our iswaras, but due to low budget, so didnt install it, so came across this article, just wanna share with u guys rclxms.gif

but its in chinese.. so sorry for those who cant read chinese.. wink.gif

credit goes to the owner


装bar记~(增加多3支的bar相片和解说)

从5月多开始,就开始留意bar的用途和功能,后来就产生强烈的兴趣,当每次装bar时,很多人都会问我:“喂,装那么bar,去走rally啊?”,听了也笑笑算了。
一开始装的是 UTR front strut bar(很多人都说是假的,我用了2个月后也觉得是假的,不过算了,反正也是有feel,八月尾才去弄个真正的ultra rcing front strut bar吧~)

后来就装了 anti -roll bar,eneos买的,只是烧焊安装都要80零吉了,跟着就是最便宜的 rear upper bar,之后就和acc店弄个 middle lower bar,然后就是最近去和rywen买的 front lower arm bar与fender bar 3 point。

自己 DIY 的fender bar 3 point的照片上载上来教大家怎么弄,因为这个 fender bar是最多工,最麻烦的安装,因为多螺丝,bumper,skirt,fender,门的4粒螺丝要都慢慢的拆下来,只是一边的螺丝数量就超过了20多粒~ 我第一次仙家做makat佬~ 由12点中午做到8点晚上,经历最难过的是弄断螺丝,弄loss螺丝,然后遇到眼睛看不到的螺丝而要靠感觉去开和上螺丝,比如躲在absorber和fender之间的铁片内。 弄到2边的门都开得不顺了,明天要去找真正的makat佬帮我fix回~ 唉,第一次diy是这样的啦,大家别鸟我~

Fender bar diy installation:

安装简易度:很难,最好找makat佬帮你弄,除非你有自己的专业知识和够力sibeh细心,不要学我半桶水,装上了,还多几粒螺丝出来,弄到2边门都不平衡了


先来个大开车头makat和bumper:
user posted image
mark 洞位先,要钻2个洞(ultra racing fender bar有送多4粒粗牙螺丝)~红色圈的,其他四个洞位就要装在门的螺丝位了,一起连门都锁上螺丝~篮圈
user posted image
钻了2个洞了,辛苦,太阳又晒天气又旱热
user posted image
好了,先把粗牙螺丝装进去先,要装nut的,ur fender bar也有送埋,不过nut要从absorber那里伸手进去装,幸好我手瘦小,难不到。
user posted image
再锁门连bar一起上螺丝,好了~
user posted image
建议安装:需要到,尤其是前轮驱动的汽车
感觉明显度:
装好了就去扫弯了喂~使用后fender bar的心得:扫弯,比以前更定了,fender把左右2边的absorber弄到很平衡了,车头也没什么斜去一边了,而且试着120时扫弯就一直维持跑着一个路线,也不会over去隔壁那条路线了,可以说是扫弯的时候更加准确了。至少车头没有了摆浮不定的感觉。过些减速线,路上的洞,干裂的洞,没那么多的杂音了。以前gear 1 一起就会听到车头的铁在扭曲的声,现在消失了。break的时候很有feel下,车头不会很吃前面而起屁股了。

front lower arm bar 和 front strut bar
先来个 front lower arm bar的大特写:
安装简易度:简单,要有基本的拆螺丝知识,有起重器和风枪开2粒lower arm的螺丝再安装再上锁就可以了,过程不超过10分钟
user posted image

front strut bar,烧焊的情景我没录下,怕烧焊佬不爽,详情请去看以下的视频:


安装简易度:专家级,请专人烧焊来装吧,不是自己能diy的。
user posted image
再接下来是向大家解释使用后的心得:

front lower arm bar :
建议安装:需要到
感觉明显度:很强下,增强下部的刚性,车头扫弯时遇到波浪没有摇摆不定了,左右2边的摇摆很平衡了,不会太大的一高一低而令车头侧去一边。

front strut bar:
建议安装:非常必定需要到
感觉明显度:增强引擎上部的刚性,因为引擎上部是没有任何chassis连着的,是空的,所以那chassis的空间是整架车里最弱的部位,这个至少比我之前装的 UTR front bar(假货)来得更加有feel,要配合 front lower arm bar一起,才能发挥最完美的功能,扫弯的steering控制能力加强了,车头左右控制也灵活了,遇到2~3~4连弯的话,不用紧张了,一个字,定~

啊啊,接下来是 Middle Lower Bar:
安装简易度:难,要起重器罢了和spanar,最好请4man做
user posted image
建议安装:你喜欢,觉得需要就装
感觉明显度:很好很实的感觉,走直路highway飞着时,不会感觉下面那么震了,有波浪也不会那么抛,扫弯时会有种吃着地的感觉,不会抛去一侧。

这个是 Upper Rear Strut Bar:
安装简易度:那么多bar中,最简单安装,最便宜的就是它了,2粒螺丝,后座安全带那里,拆下cover就看到了,拆装搞掂,不用10分钟。
user posted image
建议安装:100块有得找,肯定要的
感觉明显度:增强车后部的刚性,装了后,车尾无论直路还是弯路或是breaking,都不会神龙摆尾了,连后面的杂音也减少了,因为车后部的铁是最薄最少的,又轻。

Anti Roll Bar:
安装简易度:专家级,要找人烧焊,要会点2边的平衡,烧错了就没作用了,要谨慎,最好找经验丰富的。
user posted image
建议安装:一定要,非常需要
感觉明显度:很强烈,过弯时不整架车尤其是后半部不大会斜去一边了,没的话,侧斜很严重,过弯时,不管司机还是乘客都会倒斜去一边,装了后不是完全不会斜,但减少很大了。


original article http://forum.clubsagaiswara.com/viewthread...fid=14&tid=8568
evolution120
post Apr 9 2013, 11:42 AM

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guys, im selling off my car real soon.. demod time..

anyone want my stuffs? swapping back to stock tongue.gif

rear perdana disc + bendix metal king titanium (80% thread left) RM580+swap your drum+buyer bear installation fee

sapura lowered sport spring front and rear RM120+swap your stock spring+buyer bear installation fee

nego2 biggrin.gif
evolution120
post Apr 9 2013, 03:39 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Apr 9 2013, 02:22 PM)
upgrading what car? lol
*
Don't know yet.. Probably used car with <40k.

Since my gb is dying and axle is totally hopeless ady, after GE will change
evolution120
post Apr 9 2013, 06:52 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Apr 9 2013, 04:23 PM)
how come your axle hopeless? gave up fixing? gb also, for what it's worth, it's at least sturdy as hell provided you taken good care of it ^^;
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gave up fixing it, last time i went to a workshop, and the unmounted my alxe and check, the bushes on the left totally worn off causing the axle to bengkok already. 2 options, get recond unit or find those abang2 use welding method to weld another steel into it.. most probably caused by improper installation.. doh.gif

and regarding the gb, me and my dad went to this gb specialist @ segambut there, and the sifu duno told what to my dad, and the cost almost similar to transplant 1/2 cut unit into it although its just overhauling the entire gb. so no point fixing it where the cost almost 30 to 40% of the car value.. so just go for another used car instead..

funny thing is that now my gear shift from 1 directly to 3. 2 just gone missing lol. the car move move move, once it changes from gear 1 to another gear, it goes free gear, and the changes into 3. sweat.gif

QUOTE(DaBestOne @ Apr 9 2013, 05:19 PM)
Second hand Myvi ?  small car and fuel saving  biggrin.gif
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prefer sedan.. biggrin.gif

a colleague of mine driving civic fd hybrid.. anyone how is the car?
evolution120
post May 26 2013, 02:50 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ May 25 2013, 11:17 PM)
spending today: 1.2k for new set of rims and deposit for Yokohama AD08R, car service with a ton of products (torco SR-1, torco mpz, RCL/octane booster, showa coolant red and redline water wetter, lubegard ATF, distilled water etc) for about 400++

1.6k total

and some ultra racing bars... all for tomorrow's track day...
wish me luck  sweat.gif
*
and suddenly u appeared in 4g1s..

user posted image
evolution120
post Jun 21 2013, 01:48 AM

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QUOTE(danio @ Jun 21 2013, 01:02 AM)
hi guys, i want to ask.
-my 6 years old  lmst currently got door sound when go thru uneven road.  where is car shop/ sound proof for this problem around shah alam/klang? expected price how much?

- i want to buy new tyre, wat brand is good and price quick cheap? and also where shop that offer nice service around shah alam/klang

- my FC currently around 11.5km/l, fulltank rm75++, can go 460km until fuel indicator blink. is this good for this car?
*
tyre: yokohama c drive 2

fc: super good.. mine most also 330km only rclxub.gif

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