hahahaha...when there's a will there's a way. But will it be widely accepted or not by all JRT owners...commitment is the main key. It's not easy to set up a club and stuffs like that.

Off topic: ya know Chiam from your co?

Tainted,
selling la...you think give out for adoption?

This post has been edited by nairud: Mar 25 2006, 06:23 PM

reserve 1 female for me also =D i'm getting 1 small breed to teman my min pin

Ok,then u PM me the price and details la..

Dun think Msian dog owners hv reached such a passionate level...ready 2 spend quality time with deir dogs n embrace dog sports as a real hobby. U'll b hard pressed 2 find >20 JRT owners who r interested in outdoor activities n d races. Bsides, how 2 find such location n facilities 4 racing lah, especially in dis country! But who knows, a few yrs down d road...

D Chiam I know of hv already left d co.

i guess the club thingy will have to wait then..

Chiam Chung hong? i thought you guys just sent him over to a co in Nilai for few weeks?

Yeah this kinda club thingy needs alot of support from the members, not to mention time spend. Anybody participate in the obedient lessons at the field near the Jalan Templer roundabout? I see many ppl bring their doggies there on the weekend. Not sure if we have to pay though.

Dog OB lessons r held at Jln Gasing/Templer, Tmn Desa n Subang n usually cost bout RM150 for 10 lessons.

Main thing bout setting up a club is 2 find a dog friendly field or park where members can meet up n enjoy some activities with deir pooches or even just laze around 4 a picnic.

This weekend gotta go buy wooden planks to build the whelping box. I hope she'll use it

Well I'm planning to bring my future JRT to Pdickson once he's big enough to run around. I wish I can bring my lab's around but I dont have a van to carry them all.

Dont confuse yourself between a JRT and a Tenterfield Terrier I've seen 2 at SS24's neighbourhood at my gf's aunt's place. They look almost identical






Description: The measurement of wither to ground and wither to rear point of buttock should be of equal proportions. The length of the head and neck should always be in balance to the whole of the dog. The tail is preferably docked. The head is medium sized in proportion to the body. The head is only slightly arched between the ears. Domed or apple heads are highly undesirable. When viewed from the front and side, the head is to be wedge shaped and well filled in under the eyes. The stop is moderate and when measured from that point to the occiput it equals the distance from the stop to the tip of the nose with parallel plain. The color of the nose is preferably black with the exception of a true liver, which will have a liver nose. There should be strength in the muzzle. The eyes are not large, protruding or round, but slightly oval in shape. As dark as possible with a keen expression and pigmented eye rims. Light eyes and wall eyes are to be discouraged. The ears are V shaped with slightly rounded tips, set high on the outer edge of the skull erect or semi - erect. If semi-erect, the top third of the ear tips forward. Not wide or large at the base, rather medium in size. The length of the ear to be roughly equal to the width between the ears. The ears are of a thin texture (not thick). The mouth has strong jaws with full dentition and scissor bite. Lips to be tight fitting and pigmented. A wry mouth should be heavily penalized. The neck is strong and clean of good length allowing head to be carried proudly. The shoulders are well sloped back and not too heavily muscled. Forelegs are of strong round bone in keeping with the size of the dog, straight when viewed from any angle with sufficient length of the upper arm, which is well angled to the scapula ensuring the elbows are set under the body with the sternum clearly in front of the shoulder blades. The body is short, compact with a level topline, strong without slackness, with powerful loins. Ribs moderately sprung, back ribs deep and reaching well back with only a slight tuck up. The chest is of moderate width and reaching in depth to the level of the elbow, but not below. The Tenterfield Terrier is not too heavily muscled. The rump is well rounded with only a slight slope to the croup. The thighs are long and powerful. The stifle is well bent and the hocks well let down. The pastern should be parallel when viewed from the rear, and vertical when viewed from the side. The feet are compact, round shaped, toes moderately arched. The tail is preferably docked (3rd joint), high set and erect when alert but not carried over the back Carried gaily showing bold temperament. Sometimes a natural bobtail occurs. The fore and hind legs carried straight forward and parallel. The elbows should move perpendicular to the body, working clear of the sides, stifles neither turning in nor out and the hocks not close, with good rear drive coming from the well flexing hindquarters. The single coat should be short and of smooth texture. Coat colors are predominantly white with black, liver and/or tan markings in its various tones. Brindle markings acceptable but not preferred. Full color coats are not acceptable. Skin should always be pigmented.

Temperament: The Tenterfield Terrier is a strong, active, agile working terrier of great versatility and of pleasing proportion. Bright, happy and confident, with an eagerness to learn showing great loyalty to its owner. Fearless, bold, keen, and very intelligent with an alert expression. This breed can be stubborn at times. This terrier is a useful working dog and a wonderful companion. These dogs are terriers and even though they are small, they do exhibit all the terrier characteristics. They do best with an owner who understand the true terrier. (Terriers are often described as quick to bark, quick to chase, lively, bossy, feisty, scrappy, clever, independent, stubborn, persistent, impulsive and intense). Like all terriers, it takes loving patients to train them. They respond well to a positive reinforcement method of training and yelling and hitting will not get a good response from this loving breed. They are loving and friendly and love nothing more than a cuddle in your lap, and they love to curl up with you in bed. The Tenterfield Terrier does best with older considerate children who will play games such as fetch with them. Socializing with other dogs in a neutral setting like a Dog Obedience Club is a wonderful idea. This breed can be dog aggressive, however if they are introduced on equal terms and allowed to use normal doggy language, they will can get along with other dogs without problems. This terrier should not be trusted with non-canine pets such as mice, or guinea pigs. They do have the typical, very strong terrier chase and kill instinct. Terriers were bred to control vermin and the Tenterfield Terrier is all terrier. This means that rodents and Tenterfield Terriers should be kept separated, although the dog may learn to tolerate the rodent in time. A lot of Tenterfield terriers will get along will with cats who stand their ground but will chase cats who are scared and who run. Some Tenterfields never get along with cats, while others do, sleeping together like best friends. The Tenterfield Terrier can become destructive, and noisy if they are bored. They need human companionship. They would love to accompany you everywhere - they love walking, hiking and jogging. They will even run behind your horse if you have one and like to ride. They are good retrievers, good swimmers and good at Obedience and Agility. And whether you have one or a dozen or more they are all happy individuals who love to be by your side.

Origin: The Tenterfield Terrier was developed by crossing the Standard Fox Terriers (Smooth) with the Manchester Black and Tan or English Toy Terriers (Black & Tan). At a later stage the Whippet was introduced. At one stage Chihuahua was used but any outcrossing to other breeds is now quite forbidden. Though the Tenterfield Terrier originated in England in the 1800's, it was developed into the type it is today in Australia, making it one of only a few truly Australian bred dogs. It is found nowhere else in the world. The breed is sometimes confused with the Jack Russell, However they are some quite different.

Hey, almost exactly like a JRT especially d temperament. Only d ears n eyes r different. Must b pretty active as well.

it does look a bit like fox terrier but not really fox terrier also

Wah this could be scary.. do u think breeders will crossbreed this 2? If it's so, its pretty hard to differentiate a real JRT ..
@ Groovemaster, I can see diferences in the ear, issit all JRT have pointed down ears, and not pointed up ones? I see the pictures that u post and some from the internet and JRT ears points down, not pointed up, even Piper have no pointed down ears. Correct me if I'm wrong. But the eyes part, issit JRT's have rounder eyes? Im learning to spot the differences here. I hope that the eyes and ear characteristics can really justify a true bree of JRT.

This post has been edited by Jenn77: Mar 28 2006, 11:31 PM

JRT std: Ears should b small V shaped n dropped, carried forward close 2 d head ie. flop forward 2 d front with tip folded near/above corner of eye (when alert). Eyes shld b almond shape, full of life n intelligence, dark rims desirable.

Piper's ears r fine ie. folded down. Some JRT clubs also accept prick or pointed ears but dis is not preferred. If u dun intend 2 show ur JRT, den it dun really matter. More important is dat pup shld b in good health, appears alert, fairly active n inquisitive. But u never know, d quietest 1 may turn out 2 b d neighbourhood speed demon.

Piper's ears are not prick and it is pointing down. having their ears pointed down has its use for a JRT. When they go underground with all the digging, folded ears provide some sort of protection to the ears so that earth and other other alien objects will not drop into the ears. That's why each breed of dogs have their own use for each part of their bodies.

Another way to see a good JRT is by looking at the portion of the skull where it meets up with the ears. It should be almost flat. I've seen JRTs with rounded skull at the part connecting both ears.

Thanks nairud and groovemaster for the detail explanation. I'm currently waiting for my neighbour to intro me to one his friend who happen to be a breeder. I might take his JRT picz and post it up later. His JRT is wretling with the baby American pitbull terrier. He said that he dont intend to train his APT to fight, but just as a guard dog.

This post has been edited by Jenn77: Mar 30 2006, 10:57 PM

Darn~ Went to a petshop ner my house, they called me after the JRT arrived, less than a month old. The puppy is selling for rm 1430, with MKA Cert and 1st vaccine. Im so sad the puppy is in bad condition, minor skin disease, eyes covered with dried pus and some blood! Imagine that! Is selling for over 1.4k in such condition. I was disappointed and left the shop. After a 2 days I returned, the puppy is still in the same condition, with imrpoved skind condition. It was shivering in the cage. Poor fella.. I have made up my mind not to buy from that petshop.

1st vaccine at 1 month old and at 1 month old it's already being seperated from the mother? it's not even ready to weane yet.

Usually what's the price for JRT without cert from petshop and breeders?

Bout RM800 - 1k.