what's the diff wif firestorm booster and stuffs in this link? any1?

http://www.fuelsaving.info/ignition.htm

what's the diff wif firestorm booster and stuffs in this link? any1?

http://www.fuelsaving.info/ignition.htm

In theory :

1. The article claims that modern ignition coil can ignite 99% of the fuel in the combustion chamber. I dunno about that, but one of the Firestorm's claim is that it encourages a more complete burn.

2. In a stock ignition, fuel-air mixture is ignited at the point of the spark, and propagates outwards to combust the rest of the mixture. Because a ignition booster creates a larger spark, more portions of the mixture is ignited at once, hence combustion is faster.

Again, this is just theory. Practically speaking, V12k and kenjilew who tested it claims there are slight improvements, so maybe our stock ignition is not that good, or it's all just placebo, it's up to you to judge.

I should mention that it is not all positive feedback from the seller's thread, so each car may react differently.

Front n rear Struts noramlly wat brand is good??peice is around?? For saga flx need fix how many on it...

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Added on August 6, 2012, 12:39 pmFront n rear Struts noramlly wat brand is good??peice is around?? For saga flx need fix how many on it...

I'm just afraid that it will actually promote knock in the engine

           

i was interested with FS actually but heard from few mechanic, they said it really does increase the performance, but the cons, our piston wall can't stand that heat for long term and result in piston kaput and the side effect to our engine as well... lastly, our pocket also koyak, need to replace this and that... so after hear from them, feel afraid to install one...

i was interested with FS actually but heard from few mechanic, they said it really does increase the performance, but the cons, our piston wall can't stand that heat for long term and result in piston kaput and the side effect to our engine as well... lastly, our pocket also koyak, need to replace this and that... so after hear from them, feel afraid to install one...

So ood lar u guys, talk about kedit kad sumore. Me all these while use kesh saje

no FS for me for the time being. No money to mod car liao. Dun have hai limit prasstic kad like you guys all richfag. Only kad kedit I have is RM2000 limit masterkad for petrol+insurance nia.

Need to save money for side lower bar Btw, this saturday may be able to join you guys

NGV?!!??!?!  OK. Here is the deal, I'm no mechanic, I can only answer based on my experience.

The only NGV I played with is a WAGA with campor engine. Came with a missle arm switch


When running on gas, RPM goes slightly higher around 1100rpm, whereas petrol is 800rpm. So, easy to say there must be something intervene the throttle body to suck more air+gas on the GAS idling speed. So, below are the fact and point as I can remember:

1) Gas idling vacuum pull more, suck more gas than petrol to keep the engine running
2) Petrol driven campor engine, normal idling vacuum is around 17in/hg only
3) When applied load(driving for example), vacuum reading shoot up near to 0, once smooth cruising will maintain around 20in/hg when running on gas
4) When applied load, vacuum reading able to maintain within 5~15in/hg when running on petrol. Unless you slam on the accelerator, very rare to see 0 vacuum.

The above should be NORMAL setup for gas/petrol powered motor. As for troubleshooting...

1) On idling, vacuum ranging 15~23 is very healthy engine.
2) On idling, with aircond compressor vacuum drop 2~3in/hg is very normal as part of the torque went supply cooling effect(GaGa's SANDEN compressor is differernt story)
3) On idling, vacuum reading should be STABLE.
4) On idling, if vacuum reading flicker meaning 1 of more valve couldn't close tight
5) On idling, vacuum reading goes above 10in/hg(less than 10) meaning there is a leak somewhere
6) On idling, vacuum point to 0. Your car can't move at all. Even if it move, either instant die off or continue drive slow + hutan bakar effect
7) On normal driving, during pickup vacuum went above 10in/hg(less than 10) is very normal, as long as the car cruising smoothly, vacuum reading should drop down between 10~15in/hg.
8) When driving, above 10in/hg burning rich. Petrol/gas burnt out of nothing below I guess?
9) When driving, between 10~20in/hg is burning stoich. Efficient.
10) When dirving/downhill, vacuum drop below 25in/hg is burning lean... result is...

Source from Urbandictionary

Hope this help. I'm no sifu, but I normally clutch the car during downhill(provided the road is clear and not in a corner).
All having the same whistling sound as expected due to paper filter restriction. As long as windspeed does not compromise, rest assured is clean cabin and longer lasting cooling coil.

Rust proofing... don't know. I got no warranty, so never bother to find out. Let others to take this.

Firestorm Ignition Booster
Bulk price RM220 / RM230 (with postage) - Minimum order for bulk price = 5 orders
Closing date 22 August 2012

1. li_5997
2. kenjilew
3. manubis
4. coolkwc (Postage to JB) [PAID]
5. A573154
6. calvin_kenni [PAID]
7. chuck PIS
8.
9.
10.

Did EA quote you on the side lowers? I am intereseted as well...

I'm just afraid that it will actually promote knock in the engine

           

i was interested with FS actually but heard from few mechanic, they said it really does increase the performance, but the cons, our piston wall can't stand that heat for long term and result in piston kaput and the side effect to our engine as well... lastly, our pocket also koyak, need to replace this and that... so after hear from them, feel afraid to install one...

Hi, thanks for the write up. My car is all normal. Well, there's just one part which I think there's a typo?
Can the Persona fuse box be closed after installing the firestorm?

Hi, thanks for the write up. My car is all normal. Well, there's just one part which I think there's a typo?

Hi Bro...
Fyi me hv used this method b4, too. Simple, easier way to get a good proper tap. 
This sp "wire tapper" cuts thru the insulation of the wires to get a good contact & is cover-protected from accidental shorting. 

Ole way is to manually strip part of insulation of 1st wire  to join the 2nd wire to it. 

Most ppl now juz push in the 2nd wire into socket of connector of the 1st wire...NO "cutting" at all!!