if amsoil replied recommending against mixing their oil with ceratec, perhaps its best to follow.

can consider other engine oil that is compatible (can confirm via email like you've did, or maybe go with liqui moly as ceratec AFAIK has no compatibility issues with their own engine oil)

personally id recommend sticking to OEM/main stream semi/full synthetic ATF fluids, then add in lubegard additives to protect/enhance the original ATF fluid, so you won't stray too far from manufacturer's specifications as components within ATF tranny are quite sensitive. repairs if shit goes wrong due to wrong application is a hefty price too

personally lubegard atf protection (red one) is a more universal application, while platinum is a better version of it. elton recommended black (HFM, high friction modifier IINM) that's more suitable for japanese/local cars, which is also cheaper than platinum. problem is, can't find anyone that sells black

well for the 7-8+ years or so on ownership of my proton iswara, i believe i've only done flushing maybe 2-3 times? filter replace (including gasket) maybe once, or twice max.

i am only recommending this method because after performing it, you may not even need lubegard which would be nice saving some money, no? if you still feel not satisfied, or just curious on trying out the product, it also serves as a better bench marking as your tranny is confirmed to be clean, and you can understand further on the differences before/after lubegard in a more accurate fashion, then better decide if you still need it or not in the future

as for oil change, every 20k km, or 6 months. however as i have mentioned in this thread, i am seriously considering 40k km or 1 year. because the oil comes out damn clean on previous 1-2 oil changes most likely thanks to lubegard as previously i have never encountered such cases of clean tranny oil lol.

and there was no performance drop (or increase after tranny oil change) prior to tranny oil change at around 20k km, which means the oils and its additives (namely lubegard) maintains its properties and what not well, which should warrant a longer OCI

i dont think torco is widely discussed in bobistheoilguy. very little and vague actually.
it not even popular like liqiumoly, royal purple or redline.
somehow in malaysia, people craze with torco.

LOL, I also sent an email to Liqui Moly to ask about compatibility issue with amsoil + ceratec, and Liqui Moly said it is compatible with Amsoil SSO engine oil Now I don't know who to trust

I guess I shall follow your advise, OEM ATF oil + lubegard addictive. Any recommended seller for me to refer with?

Advertisement effect?

heh both manufacturers playing it safe/wanting to earn money
use your own judgement/decision then lol

and i've posted few posts ago on where i get my lubegard

sengasdf : Wow.. ceramic based additive for the engine? Uh.. dude, think about it. Engine oils have detergents to clean out sludge and contaminants in the engine, they have a shitload of other additives that does different things too but ultimately it's there to provide some heat dissipation and mainly lubrication for the car. Ceramic is a great friction preventer no doubt but it still has a shelf life. Having that sort of thing stuck to your internals and later stuck in your oil sump is just asking for trouble. If Ceramic was that great why wasn't any engine oil made with it? Unless you're physically bonding the block and internal parts with ceramic (ceramic coating), adding liquid ceramic isn't quite the same thing. It'll still eventually break down and the type of sludge left over will be "fantastic".

I'd just personally use a good oil and leave it at that.

As for good gearbox oil, what sort of ATF does the swift use? I'm sure you'll find a Motul or a Redline that suites your needs and those are pretty good stuff. A complete swap out of fluids + a new ATF filter will do wonders for you. And if you haven't already, get a ATF cooler.

note : this is purely my personal opinion. You are not obliged to agree and have the right to your own opinion as do I.

This post has been edited by izso: Jul 19 2012, 07:39 PM

i am not sure this lubegard is under local made or USA ?
lubegard in market also got engine oil . carry by cycle and carriage bintang ? WTF is going on man . so many similiar name out there

Just an information:

1) Engine Oil + Ceratec >>> OK
2) MTF + Ceratec >>> OK
3) ATF + Ceratec >>> CANNOT
4) Differential Oil + Ceratec >>>OK

I hope no one is confused ... cos i read that someone was trying to use ceratec with ATF ...

http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-113/LUBEGARD+P...+ATF+Protectant

This is the one that ulet was specifically talking about.

i hope so, btw it's still rare to be available in market. frankly, i never see this XD
sounds good .

This ceratec won't last forever inside engine, it only last for 50k KM, for further technical info how it works, got to ask ThunderGod_Cid or Quazacolt for explaination

I have no idea what ATF that swift is currently using, do not know much about ATF

personally i dont think it even last beyond 30-40k km haha. my engine isn't as "orangey" as it was when i first put in ceratec 10-15k km ago lol

Orange? I thought is grey mang, haven't open the bottle yet

LM is grey/black ish, ceratec on the other hand, ceramic based additive/compound, yeah orange lol

Thanks to ulet I have got my grubby paws on a Asbro ATF additive and hopefully later a Lubeguard ATF platinum for comparison.

Now if I can find a sponsor to do a oil analysis I'd gladly feature that sponsor on a very popular website.

Any takers for a objective comparison for these additives?

Done servicing on my gearbox yesterday

ATF cooler + Q8 Unitrans JK + Lubegard Platinum

Feels lighter

asbro atf additive? never heard it before.. trustable?
at least there is tonnes of positive testimonial on lubegard, even the oil analysis in bob is the oil guy forum.

i can't wait for a proper comparison/UOA

so what are your test cases and pre/post tests? it's going to be a looooooooooonnnnnnnnnnnngggg 1-2 years timespan to test out 2 products + a pre test without neither TBH

then gasket+filter set and flushing every conclusion to make results accurate.

then of course a UOA sponsor heh.

hey depending on the total cost etc, i think i may be able to help out (maybe few people chipping in etc) for the sake of SCIENCE!

---

Added on July 23, 2012, 12:21 amFUH straight away do all these 3 things. how much you got quoted for the Q8 and lubegard (including service charge) and where you got it done?

also you got notice the Q8 fluid color? is it red? i wonder if mine is using the exact fluid. my workshop dude just told me it is Q8 semi syn oil without the model/product detail, somemore its taken out from a bigger drum and not individual bottles to save cost

so far so good though, things are a ton smoother as i've tried that Q8 semi syn oil without lubegard, still smoother than shitty "highly appraised (by workshops at least)" toyota ATF lol. then got poisoned to try lubegard and lol even smoother and oil during oil drain is much cleaner compared to without.

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Jul 23 2012, 12:25 AM

Got someone offer to me FOC.. I take and do comparison objectively lor. If I can't get a UOA then will probably do other less-than-scientific-comparisons.

Q8 is RM49 per bottle and the Lubegard platinum is RM9X, done these at Kaitenaz Racing.

Actually wanna add ATF cooler only, since they need to top up some ATF after installation, some more has been using for 30k KM, might as well drain the entire ATF and change new.

Yea the Q8 Unitrans JK is in red color, as well as lubegard platinum. Same goes to mine, they don't have proper product label sticker on it, maybe it is the same thing, only sold in big drum or something.

Some poison and reference

that's the exact bottle when i requested them to show me a bottled version so i can check out the labels/product description way back then.

albeit it did not come with the marker pen "Q8 unitrans JK". just a "blank" Q8 bottle
per bottle should be a liter i assume? if yes then yeah pricing is about the same that i've gotten for my place.

i dont know la, however from the way how smooth my auto shifts are, i am not even sure if one even needs an ATF cooler after you're on good semi syn (the product sheet says synthetic from Q8 site, however my workshop foreman says its semi synthetic only) AND lubegard platinum.

the main reason why one gets an ATF cooler is to cooldown ATF temperature because the higher temperature it goes for the ATF, the viscosity may change and may be off your tranny specifications or at least very near off which may not offer enough protection.

i've never experienced jerks/delays in shifts ever since i'm on Q8 and eventually lubegard, and that totally killed my thoughts of getting an ATF cooler since i probably don't need one.

Alas the above claims are from non-scientific claims/feels/experience, which may or may not be accurate as opposed to having a proper thermostat/device to check your actual ATF temperature/viscosity.
however one thing to note, MAJORITY of stock vehicles DOES NOT have ATF coolers installed in their car, so *maybe* it really isn't needed