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 Lubegard, anyone using it?, apparently it works!

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sengasdf
post Jul 19 2012, 11:24 AM

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I thought Amsoil is producing good and reliable engine oil, never know they did put up fake certificatates. Currently am using Signature-series, would wonder anyone has any review regarding this? Might thinking to change to Liqui Moly on next change..


Added on July 19, 2012, 11:26 amOh ya, by the way, currently driving a swift, could any sifus recommend me ATF oil and addictive for my auto tranny? Any recommended seller? Much appreciate your info biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by sengasdf: Jul 19 2012, 11:26 AM
sengasdf
post Jul 19 2012, 11:44 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jul 19 2012, 11:32 AM)
never said they didn't produce bad oils. but yea, marketing decisions/issues, and/or cost saving etc. it happens to even the highest profile companies/corporations and i guess amsoil isn't excluded.

for ATF fluid, i would recommend your manufacturer's OEM, and/or main stream semi/full synthetic ATF fluid, and if you're not satisfied enough, then can try out lubegard smile.gif

of course, do proper flushing and/or even replacement of auto tranny filter (usually also involve gasket replacement too, at least for my auto tranny) for accurate/proper results especially for comparisons with/without lubegard  nod.gif
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I have read quite a lot of review regarding their (top line?) Signature-series engine oil, that is why I go for this.

And I have sent an email to Amsoil regarding compatibility on Liqui Moly Ceratec that I bought from Elton couple weeks back, they replied that it is not recommended to mix their oil with ceratec, ohmy.gif Was thinking to change to other brand or not... hmm.gif

I would like to try Lubegard, Lubegard ATF oil + additive? Which one is recommended? tongue.gif

Flushing and replace filter every time I change ATF oil? how often do you perform oil change on your auto tranny?
sengasdf
post Jul 19 2012, 03:03 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jul 19 2012, 12:41 PM)
if amsoil replied recommending against mixing their oil with ceratec, perhaps its best to follow.

can consider other engine oil that is compatible (can confirm via email like you've did, or maybe go with liqui moly as ceratec AFAIK has no compatibility issues with their own engine oil)

personally id recommend sticking to OEM/main stream semi/full synthetic ATF fluids, then add in lubegard additives to protect/enhance the original ATF fluid, so you won't stray too far from manufacturer's specifications as components within ATF tranny are quite sensitive. repairs if shit goes wrong due to wrong application is a hefty price too sad.gif

personally lubegard atf protection (red one) is a more universal application, while platinum is a better version of it. elton recommended black (HFM, high friction modifier IINM) that's more suitable for japanese/local cars, which is also cheaper than platinum. problem is, can't find anyone that sells black laugh.gif

well for the 7-8+ years or so on ownership of my proton iswara, i believe i've only done flushing maybe 2-3 times? filter replace (including gasket) maybe once, or twice max.

i am only recommending this method because after performing it, you may not even need lubegard which would be nice saving some money, no? if you still feel not satisfied, or just curious on trying out the product, it also serves as a better bench marking as your tranny is confirmed to be clean, and you can understand further on the differences before/after lubegard in a more accurate fashion, then better decide if you still need it or not in the future smile.gif

as for oil change, every 20k km, or 6 months. however as i have mentioned in this thread, i am seriously considering 40k km or 1 year. because the oil comes out damn clean on previous 1-2 oil changes most likely thanks to lubegard as previously i have never encountered such cases of clean tranny oil lol.

and there was no performance drop (or increase after tranny oil change) prior to tranny oil change at around 20k km, which means the oils and its additives (namely lubegard) maintains its properties and what not well, which should warrant a longer OCI
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LOL, I also sent an email to Liqui Moly to ask about compatibility issue with amsoil + ceratec, and Liqui Moly said it is compatible with Amsoil SSO engine oil biggrin.gif Now I don't know who to trust sad.gif

I guess I shall follow your advise, OEM ATF oil + lubegard addictive. Any recommended seller for me to refer with?

QUOTE(ulet @ Jul 19 2012, 02:29 PM)
i dont think torco is widely discussed in bobistheoilguy. very little and vague actually.
it not even popular like liqiumoly, royal purple or redline.
somehow in malaysia, people craze with torco.
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Advertisement effect? hmm.gif
sengasdf
post Jul 20 2012, 11:14 AM

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QUOTE(izso @ Jul 19 2012, 07:36 PM)
sengasdf : Wow.. ceramic based additive for the engine? Uh.. dude, think about it. Engine oils have detergents to clean out sludge and contaminants in the engine, they have a shitload of other additives that does different things too but ultimately it's there to provide some heat dissipation and mainly lubrication for the car. Ceramic is a great friction preventer no doubt but it still has a shelf life. Having that sort of thing stuck to your internals and later stuck in your oil sump is just asking for trouble. If Ceramic was that great why wasn't any engine oil made with it? Unless you're physically bonding the block and internal parts with ceramic (ceramic coating), adding liquid ceramic isn't quite the same thing. It'll still eventually break down and the type of sludge left over will be "fantastic".

I'd just personally use a good oil and leave it at that.

As for good gearbox oil, what sort of ATF does the swift use? I'm sure you'll find a Motul or a Redline that suites your needs and those are pretty good stuff. A complete swap out of fluids + a new ATF filter will do wonders for you. And if you haven't already, get a ATF cooler.

note : this is purely my personal opinion. You are not obliged to agree and have the right to your own opinion as do I.
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This ceratec won't last forever inside engine, it only last for 50k KM, for further technical info how it works, got to ask ThunderGod_Cid or Quazacolt for explaination biggrin.gif

I have no idea what ATF that swift is currently using, do not know much about ATF laugh.gif
sengasdf
post Jul 20 2012, 11:42 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jul 20 2012, 11:33 AM)
personally i dont think it even last beyond 30-40k km haha. my engine isn't as "orangey" as it was when i first put in ceratec 10-15k km ago lol
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Orange? I thought is grey mang, haven't open the bottle yet biggrin.gif
sengasdf
post Jul 22 2012, 10:08 PM

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Done servicing on my gearbox yesterday

ATF cooler + Q8 Unitrans JK + Lubegard Platinum

Feels lighter biggrin.gif
sengasdf
post Jul 23 2012, 10:17 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jul 23 2012, 12:11 AM)
i can't wait for a proper comparison/UOA  rclxms.gif

so what are your test cases and pre/post tests? it's going to be a looooooooooonnnnnnnnnnnngggg 1-2 years timespan to test out 2 products + a pre test without neither TBH

then gasket+filter set and flushing every conclusion to make results accurate.

then of course a UOA sponsor heh.

hey depending on the total cost etc, i think i may be able to help out (maybe few people chipping in etc) for the sake of SCIENCE! laugh.gif


Added on July 23, 2012, 12:21 am

FUH straight away do all these 3 things. how much you got quoted for the Q8 and lubegard (including service charge) and where you got it done?

also you got notice the Q8 fluid color? is it red? i wonder if mine is using the exact fluid. my workshop dude just told me it is Q8 semi syn oil without the model/product detail, somemore its taken out from a bigger drum and not individual bottles to save cost  hmm.gif

so far so good though, things are a ton smoother as i've tried that Q8 semi syn oil without lubegard, still smoother than shitty "highly appraised (by workshops at least)" toyota ATF lol. then got poisoned to try lubegard and lol even smoother and oil during oil drain is much cleaner compared to without.
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Q8 is RM49 per bottle and the Lubegard platinum is RM9X, done these at Kaitenaz Racing.

Actually wanna add ATF cooler only, since they need to top up some ATF after installation, some more has been using for 30k KM, might as well drain the entire ATF and change new.

Yea the Q8 Unitrans JK is in red color, as well as lubegard platinum. Same goes to mine, they don't have proper product label sticker on it, maybe it is the same thing, only sold in big drum or something.

Some poison and reference tongue.gif
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sengasdf
post Jul 23 2012, 11:50 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jul 23 2012, 11:26 AM)
doh.gif
that's the exact bottle when i requested them to show me a bottled version so i can check out the labels/product description way back then.

albeit it did not come with the marker pen "Q8 unitrans JK". just a "blank" Q8 bottle laugh.gif
per bottle should  be a liter i assume? if yes then yeah pricing is about the same that i've gotten for my place.

i dont know la, however from the way how smooth my auto shifts are, i am not even sure if one even needs an ATF cooler after you're on good semi syn (the product sheet says synthetic from Q8 site, however my workshop foreman says its semi synthetic only) AND lubegard platinum.

the main reason why one gets an ATF cooler is to cooldown ATF temperature because the higher temperature it goes for the ATF, the viscosity may change and may be off your tranny specifications or at least very near off which may not offer enough protection.

i've never experienced jerks/delays in shifts ever since i'm on Q8 and eventually lubegard, and that totally killed my thoughts of getting an ATF cooler since i probably don't need one.

Alas the above claims are from non-scientific claims/feels/experience, which may or may not be accurate as opposed to having a proper thermostat/device to check your actual ATF temperature/viscosity.
however one thing to note, MAJORITY of stock vehicles DOES NOT have ATF coolers installed in their car, so *maybe* it really isn't needed smile.gif
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Fake product? They buy in bulk? God knows man... I could not care much since Kaitenaz Racing has reputation. Nazlee did introduced me the Torco ATF, but it is damn pricey, around double of Q8 rclxub.gif

I did not experience any jerks or delays as the gearbox is still new(2 years++) but does feel that car is hard to pull after long driving, getting hot maybe?

I just throw a cooler in so I don't need to worry about gearbox overheating when I pull it hard as I don't have any gauge to check the temperature. Just for prevention and feel good factor laugh.gif

Not going to install engine oil cooler, just waiting next coolant change and get a good coolant. Has quite good review, can be found at ACE hardware


Added on July 23, 2012, 11:57 amThis is the coolant I mentioned

user posted image

This post has been edited by sengasdf: Jul 23 2012, 11:57 AM
sengasdf
post Jul 23 2012, 02:29 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jul 23 2012, 12:47 PM)
haha i was introduced to torco ATF too. price was  rclxub.gif
and i thought, proton 3 speeder auto only dei, no need so pamper it right? LOL

well if you're not having jerks/delays you didn't really need lubegard right? hows the "feel good factor" going? better shifts? less 0.2 sec that you probably didn't feel? lol

hmm maybe can look into that coolant. reviews from where?
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3 speeder? very good top end wor

Not sure if is new oil or Lubegard, it actually feels lighter, not as sluggish as before. Better shift? I am suck on butt-dyno man...

This coolant has already mixed properly, so just pour in without mixing water. Had the review long time ago, can't remember the site..

Might try Lubegard coolant

This post has been edited by sengasdf: Jul 23 2012, 02:38 PM

 

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