anyone use Lubegard for their Auto Transmission here?

apparently this bugger really works!
I thought it is just another additive that might help a little but apprently not.

My friend have 2001 n16 sentra and the auto transmission has this massive lag(got to wait more than a minute) to engaged 'D'(gear lever in 'D' but gear wont engaged) in the morning and whenever the car already switched off for more than few hours.

so the other day with Iszo did an ATF flush and replace the ATF filter. After all that, the massive lag still there! We poured in Lubegard Platinum(dint get the lubegard red because the shop were out of it) and he sent me back home without knowing whether the lubegard work or not.

The next day, he start the car and engaged 'D' and it works! there is no more lag and the gear just engaged flawlessly... im impressed but still skeptical
wondering whether the ATF flush and ATF filter replacement might do the job but take time.

anyway, i found out my uncle 1996 serena also having this masive gear lag(same like my friend's sentra). So we poured in Lubegard into it without changing the ATF and now... the gear engaged 'D' without any lag

damn! this lubegard is good

if u guys thinking im doing advertisement, sorry im not selling it nor related to anyone selling it.
please find out yourself where to get it. im just spreading what is good here.

This post has been edited by ulet: Jul 14 2012, 07:36 PM

yea...my fren use the lubeguard for his manual gearbox...it works too...

i use lubegard platinum (rm98 lol) along with Q8 semi synthetic ATF for my proton iswara 3 speed auto, and after the first time, i will definitely stick to it for the rest of the car's lifetime

the total cost is almost rm300 every ATF replacement (20k km or 6 months for my case) and yes, it is very expensive compared to most products out there (eg: the famous toyota ATF only cost ~rm100 or so per application, although many fakes these days so steered away from that too) however imho it is worth the money spent because gear shifting is so god damn smooth and fast.

not to mention, its been the 2nd or 3rd time i've replaced my ATF fluid, and everytime the old ones drain out, it is almost like new (fluid isn't watery or super thick, basically no signs of degradation/oxidization ) which prompts me to consider extending the intervals to 1 year or 40k km. i mean, another claim of lubegard is extending the ATF's lifespan too, right? ROFL

tldr: expensive, however its worth the money spent if you're willing to fork out

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Added on July 14, 2012, 10:13 pm
btw, izso as in the forumer?

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Jul 14 2012, 10:13 PM

May I know what's Lubegard is for?

ATF additive/supplement

Is it suitable for all vehicle? I am using Perdana v6.

i dont think suitable for all vehicle, only suitable for automatic transmission with dextron specifications.

that said, it should be suitable for perdana v6 auto transmission

yup, izso the forummer.

check out this link --> Lubegard problem solving

yup, it is suitable. v6 hold 6 litres of ATF so you need roughly 230ml of it. lubegard red is good already.

it is suitable for all except Except Ford Type F ATF and CVT applications.

This post has been edited by ulet: Jul 15 2012, 11:42 AM

I would recommend lubegard to most of my customers during workshop days, and still do if they ask for additives for ATF.

The lubegard ATF flush elminates sticky valves in the valve bodies therefore curing the 'lag' problem of your friend's car

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Added on July 15, 2012, 3:53 pmI'm not saying you're using the wrong lubegard for your tranny, but you can have a better choice by taking the lubagard atf additive in the black bottle which is made specially for japanese and korean cars. Platinum additive also works as converting atf specifications making it close to universal.Use the black one, equally as good for your iswara and saves you 10-20bux as well

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Added on July 15, 2012, 3:54 pmif im not mistaken they have one specially for cvt as well

This post has been edited by ThunderGod_Cid: Jul 15 2012, 03:54 PM

hmm the workshop i goto only have the red ATF protect and platinum (and the yellow gear oil which i assume for MT's), don't have the black one

what's the major differences anyway?
i thought platinum would be the "be all end all" solution?

ulet, woi.. don't drag me into this. But since you did I'm going to comment..

I'm not a supporter of additives.

Guys - this guys transmission had a complete drain, ATF filter change and filled up with fresh oil. Initially the GB still had the delay problem, it only resolved itself the next day.

Usually a complete drain and ATF filter change fixes most of these GB problems la. And the fact that he used Castrol Dexron III 4L (meaning reputable brand and oil) makes it even better. I mean, it might just have been the oil that solved the problem.

I have my reservations regarding additives.

Also, regarding your uncles car that had some problems and you just adding the additive in, has it ever occurred to you that it might just be the additive changing the viscosity of the oil or something? I know Bluechem's engine oil cleaner does exactly that. It temporarily 'revives' dead engine oil to be more viscous allowing you to flush the oil more easily. In fact they even claim that you can even prolong the engine oil change for about 50km to 100km with the engine cleaner mixed into your oil. But ultimately it's temporary.

I'm thinking it's possibly the same in this particular situation. But I'm just guessing.

i dint drag u in lah, i just said u did the changing atf and filter of the car.

maybe it does what u said to my uncle's car but they did claim lubegard will solve gear 'morning sickness' and they did that. hard to believe when my uncle's keep changing with good atf(not synthetic) every 20k and he already have this 'morning sickness' feeling since 2-3 years ago.
he poured in half bottle lubegard red and the next day no more 'morning sickness'.

i dont recommend it on new car, only car got similar problem with what i said.

i agree with your pointers.

although personally, im on the fence with this. i believe it if it works, disbelieve if it doesn't sorta deal.
and since it works for me, i guess you can call me a believer for lubegard, not so much for other products of the same function i suppose until it is proven to me otherwise

reason being coming from an engine oil point of view, base oil itself won't last as long as what reputable brand/expensive engine oil can. the additives is what prolong the oil's life, prevent it from degradation from carbon/other waste deposits from combustion, and of course enhances its functionality be it less friction, or even better and/or consistent oil viscosity etc

in contrast to ATF additives/oil in line to what i've said earlier, i am a believer of liqui moly and torco semi synthetic oils. the difference is just so huge compared to a "reputable brand" mineral oil (or even semi- synthetics)such as shell, hi-rev and so on.
Granted, those oil are so much cheaper, imo it is a good example of what you pay is what you get

Well, if your uncle has been using the correct oil and is always filling at optimum levels, then I'd be surprised. But if he was always overfilling or underfilling without realising it then he'd slowly kill the gearbox hence the problems now. Lubeguard *probably* changed the viscosity level (I use this assumption very loosely) to cater for the higher wear and tear.

In my Myvi's case, I cooked the gearbox because I ran about 20km+ without any oil in it because the hose had cracked and leaked all my oil out. So I probably do have damage inside the gearbox hence my issues. Lubeguard may or may not fix my problem but I'm not willing to spend close to RM100 to find out. Good fully synthetic oil like those from Rockoil or Pennzoil seems to do the trick for me except the gear changes aren't as smooth as they used to be.

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Added on July 16, 2012, 8:17 pmYou are right and wrong at the same time.

The additives determine the viscosity, the amount of detergents, anti-acidity additives, heat suppressors and a few other small little things yes.. preventing it from degradation no.

There are a few grades of base oil, most engine oil brands these days use group 3 base oil which is the lowest quality that can be used for engine oils. Grade 4 and 5 are ester based oils and they are way superior in lifespan and heat transfer etc. Expensive oils like Motul (the ester based range) and Ravenol (I don't know the makeup of Torco and Liquimoly) use group 4 or 5 base oils hence their price.

It's kinda like comparing a car tinted with cheap tinting. It'll protect your interior from the UV and some IR. But put it side by side with Vkool Elite and it's a completely different thing although they both do the same thing. In most cases too Vkool Elite will outlast the el-cheapo tint because of the quality materials it's made from.

So you're right about you get what you pay for.

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Added on July 16, 2012, 8:20 pmOh and lastly - Torco is not API certified. 'Exceeding API certifications' and compliance to the certification requirements is not the same thing.

I wouldn't use an oil that hasn't been tested and certified otherwise they can claim the whole sky and earth, and no one would be the wiser.

This post has been edited by izso: Jul 16 2012, 08:21 PM

perhaps my wording on "degradation prevention" is of exaggeration. however one thing that is certain is that with the additives, engine oil degradation is slowed down. would that be more acceptable then?


btw this link could give some insight on why a lot of "boutique brand" engine oils are not API certified: http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible_amsoilFAQ.html
as compared to almost all mainstreamed engine oils that are.

and on the same page, if one decides to take the leap of faith, you can immediately discover that despite being API certified, the performance of mainstream engine oil is just sub par compared to the more performing (albeit more expensive) un-certified non mainstream engine oil

info on groups:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil
(so yeah group 4 = PAO, 5 are anything that arent covered in 1-4 and ester are the popular base stock for 5)

so from torco's specs (well they aren't certified, so if you don't believe their claims that is fine lol):

SR-1
http://www.torcousa.com/technology/TDS_SR-1%20RacingOil.pdf
group 3
http://www.torcousa.com/technology/TDS_SR-1%20MotorOil.pdf
didnt seem to specify

http://www.torcousa.com/technology/SR-5.pdf
group 4/5 so should be ester based.

the one i used (TR-5, only used/using for the sentra, and my own car once during the track day lol):
http://www.torcousa.com/technology/TR-1.pdf
unspecified, however with

should be group 3 based

still, a bit surprised you used tinting as an example.
merely because our scenario here is exactly like tints, except engine oil has certification bodies, while tints does not. can anyone certify whatever v-kool is claiming? what about other brands?

that's kinda the case with torco (or even liqui moly) is suppose

that is a pure mechanical failure by all means

personally, i dont think lubegard is magic in a bottle thats able to fix mechanical failure. at best it only lessens its affects.

im using it more towards PREVENTION of mechanical failures, and more towards the smoothness and responsiveness of gear shifts be it in the wee morning cold starts, or midnight drives or even very hot afternoon.

Well hey.. it's your money, your car, your choice and if there is one... your problem. I choose not to use unverifiable oils.

Amsoil makes very good oils and is API certified. Redline is certified. Motul is certified. Lucas is certified. Mainstream crap? Really? Are you going to debate this with me?

Vkool does have certification to prove its claims btw.

But ultimately like I said - your money, your choice, your problem.

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Added on July 17, 2012, 7:59 pmSigh.

Your choice and your money, but I have to point out companies like Mobil, Amsoil, etc didn't spend millions on R&D to be outsmarted by a <RM100 bottle of additives.

You want prevention? Change your oils more frequently and always change the filter. Don't overcook the gearbox either by going on track. That's prevention of mechanical failures, not adding some additive that may have some sort of chemical reaction with whatever fluids in your gearbox at god-knows what temperature at that point of time leaving behind something nasty.

Anyway, how long have you been using additives? 5 to 7 years down the road please do give me an update on how your gearbox is doing. My GB has been running on Proton SPIII and Mitsubishi Diaqueen SPIII for 8 years now and it's still going strong.

This post has been edited by izso: Jul 17 2012, 07:59 PM

i am pretty sure when i (or we) am talking about mainstream, i am referring towards shell/castrol/petronas etc.

the brands like amsoil/redline/motul/lucas you have mentioned are all considered boutique/non-mainstream brand, in which their price clearly reflects btw

And if you've bothered checking out my links earlier (carbibles.com btw, or you can even look up bobistheoilguy forums) you will see that not all amsoil products, especially their top of the line/flagship are API certified, and they have even put out fake certifications

slight note of bobistheoilguy btw: they have many "science/chemist" guys (lol!) that does UOA and results/feedback from torco has been pretty good mind you. else i wouldn't bother pouring something un certified with similar/same concerns as you are having

i mainly use liqui moly and only used torco for my car for that one time track day OCI. if you didn't know, liqui moly is API SL / ACEA certified. so isn't that good enough? or what other kinda certification you're looking at?

atm i am considering changing to liqui moly for the nissan sentra because my mother is the main driver of it and she doesn't high rev/drive fast much, which kinda make torco pointless to be honest. might as well have the extra protection/engine quietness that liqui moly provides.

for my own info's sake though, what kinda certification v kool has? the one they give you when you buy their elite/high end product? or the one from jpj? please elaborate


and lol surprised to see you mentioning track
however my reasons or even justifications as you may call it stands, think logically: why are we buying better engine oil? is it because it offers better protection and provides a smoother engine?

it's pretty much the same deal with lubegard.
the exact same things you said can also be applied to engine oil, why waste money on better engine oil for prevention? why not just change your oil at tighter interval? (4k km? 3k? or even 2k km? from my experience, shell lasts 2.5-4k km) That guarantees engine smoothness and cleanliness too. no point to buy more expensive oils right?

its just the same concept/logic. time to time i'll rev my car to red line just for the sheer fun/exhilaration of it, i don't think having more frequent OCI (be it engine oil/gear oil) would help much. and as i mentioned on my previous post, the gear engagement of my gearbox with and without lubegard is pretty obvious. it could be because of my very old gear box, or its because of my driving style having higher revs on gear shifts, i wouldn't know. however the differences is there, and i'd like to keep it.

hell, even lubegard's own statement claims a 50% increase in gear response which is 0.4 sec to 0.2 sec (lol minor almost unnoticeable difference, but it IS 50% LOL!) which may or may not be true, however for my case, it is even bigger difference especially on cold start putting my very first D or R engage after engine crank.

=edit=
and yes, while i've only been a lubegard user for maybe 1-2 years, definitely not going strong like your 8 years record. 1-2 years without any gearbox issue on my old 3 speed auto proton tranny thats been to track day once downshifting/1-2 speed gear limitation at 5-7k rpm... can consider *a bit* credible, right?

of course, like you said, at the end of the day, my money, my choice. and that's that la.
however we always can have healthy debates (hopefully not arguments) for knowledge sharing right?

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Jul 17 2012, 08:37 PM

Are we arguing? No ah. If arguing I'd be calling you names. LOL