Yeah, but some say Slick 50 got PTFE, not good for bike wet clutch.
This model that I got, no PTFE... contradicting. Will see how.

no need respect, just all the things I read on internet I share.
The EO I bought when Parkson clearance, RM70 sold as RM30. Old stock.
Royal Purple also good, got some US race team use the oil. I would use it too, RM40.
Amsoil also good on paper, bought a few, but haven't try.

The worst I tried is Shell SAE40, used a month also the oil is clean, no carbon. Means little detergent and anti-oxidant. No good.

EO can last very long. Service interval of 3000km is sometimes too conservative. Need to remember, motorbike, oil, gas, metal etc is one big industry to make sure we spend money. We spend too much on oil for such a small bike.

1 liter EO, RM20~40. Car EO, 4 liter, RM60~90. Change interval, same.
1 tire, RM120. Car tire, same price each... what's wrong here?

Everything on bike also much more expensive compared to service a car, relatively to engine cc and size...

I just think we all should be wise consumer even when we use bike, and thinking that we save on petrol alone.

12 - RM48 each, 24 - RM34 each, so much difference?

RP is API-SL to API-SN certified.

LC use flat tappet... again, please stick to API-SG.
EO with API rating greater than SG will burn through your flat tappets and cam lobes.

On 4T bikes, the problems is most likely to come from engine head when the wrong EO is used.
Shifting gear is just a mild to near useless way to judge an EO quality.

Reads:
Flat Tappet on race engines
RP catalog

For trades request, maybe this is not the best place. Some LYN policy violation or something. Just PM the fella and see if he is nice enough to sell you a few bottles at bulk price.

Once you put in, and gear changing not smooth, that's it, it won't get any better.

that's terrible... before change EO is much better?
Better just forget it, find the EO you want, and get it over with. It's not worth the pain for RM16...

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Added on December 20, 2012, 4:51 pmIn some cases, when warm up, or really hot, gear shifting might improve a little bit, but returning from gear 1 or gear 2 to neutral is difficult.

This post has been edited by alexei: Dec 20 2012, 04:51 PM

I heard this a while back, Suzuki bikes have better gear. Yamaha one always sensitive to EO. But, I think there is little truth, just help spreading rumors here.
Anyhow, downshift to gear 2 while rolling is ok. Then drop from gear 2 to neutral is also easier while bike is rolling. Standing bike is harder to drop neutral IMO.
What oil you plan to change?

EO rating max 40 better for rather low mileage bike. 50 when high temp may not reach critical part like cam lobe and under piston dome. Stay with API SG. and 40 visco. If scared fake EO, find motor parts supply buy EO.

Can you get the service manual from page 1?

gaji out, when u wanna go?

I just buy EO and 2T.

@ken: Are you using O-ring? If yes, Q-plus not enough.

If O-ring, after you use kerosene or WD-40, you might have incidentally removed the lubricant inside the chain that is sealed within the rings.
I'm not sure Q-plus does the trick of penetrating the O-ring, and dry up leaving the lubricant inside, or not.

I'm using Silkolene and Motul chainlube.
I have Maxima cans in queue, so I dunno if that works just as well.

One question, full tank highway can go how far?

Penang TT?

I was thinking day time...

just a capacitor...

where are they? I saw them on the bridge yesterday morning.