Hi all,my wife met with an accident with one myvi last thursday..may I know cost of replacing the driver side door and rear passenger door.. It was dented slighty but the myvi driver don want to re-knock the door instead ask for new one..

New door gonna cost you...

At first myvi driver agree to reknock and repaint the dent which cost rm600.. But he later change mind want to change new door panel now..aiseh..seems like we need to go thru lot of hassle with police report n insurance claim after this

NCB burnt .... tooo

My latest mod for my Myvi/Sirion/Boon.

The car had pretty stupid design..if you are running open pod.. the only place that you can get cold air from the bumper is from the passenger side of the engine bay... which is blocked by battery and radiator reservoir bottle.... or you can do the usual mod and have cold air feed from the driver side grill.. which isnt what I am after as the cold air hose will pass directly over the headers/exhaust manifold which defeats the purpose of COLD air intake in the first place!

So.. instead of spending hundreds of $$ to get a battery relocation kit.. I will just do a mod to allow cold air feed from bumper... and that is relocating the radiator reservoir and re-orientate the battery!!

This is a relatively cheap mod, but would require a bit of thinking and simple fabrication. At the end, you will only need to purchase:

1. A new length of radiator overflow hose (8mm ID), about 50cm to 55cm
2. Some length of aluminum strip (Thickest you can get your hands on while being about to bend it yourself). If you got some spare from other home project, then use that!
3. About 5 x M6 screws bolts and corresponding nuts.

You will need some tools too...

1. power drill
2. wench
3. screw driver
4. spanner

Here below is the before and after of my mod... I am running a K n N Apollo CAI/pod at the moment.. so I NEED to find a place to source cold air from...



From here on, its time to take you through the mod.

First bumper off first...


Then...I have the battery and radiator reservoir bottle out..

Battery out..


How it looks now with both items out of the engine bay.

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Added on July 1, 2012, 12:59 amNow we compare the old length of radiator overflow hose with the new..


Radiator reservoir bottle repositioned...turn the bottle clock wise 90 degree for the fitment.


A different angle, notice how I have drilled a hole in the engine bay to allow the brace of the reservoir bottle to be secured.

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Added on July 1, 2012, 12:59 amThe brace I made from what ever I can find in my home for the radiator reservoir bottle to sit on.. this takes a bit of your own measurement, creativity and fabrication skill to do.. as you can see I am not so good at it.. you might just be able to do it different and better than me


Now the battery tray has been positioned at its new orientation..You will have to measure things yourself to make sure everything fits! do not hesitate to drill holes in the tray itself so you can secure the tray in the existing hole of the battery mount... I have also included 2 piece of aluminium strip at the bottom of the tray to reinforce it!.. looks a bit rough.. but it does the trick!


Put everything back togather and you will have this!


This mod can be used for any open pod setup!

Any questions please ask me through PM (I don't speak malay so english only pls ^^")

PS: You might need to log on to Facebook to see my pictures.

This post has been edited by NaTypeR: Jul 1 2012, 01:02 AM

I don't see a reason why need to replace the door when it can be knocked back. If he insist, just make the police report then. I bet he cant claim back for a new door too...He will just end up the same thing (knock back the door)...Plus additional waiting for like 3 months to claim it?

Hi everyone! I jz get my new MyVi 1.5 SE Auto 3 days before! But a bit dissapoined with the sound quality... Any suggestion for which brand should i go for the speakers??

Any LB owners having front absorbers problem?

Please update me also!

MyVi 1.5 SE AUTO (Multimedia)

Black Colour

Need opinion. Which color is better and gooding for Myvi Extreme? In torn to choose black and yellow.

Definitely black. But its very subjective.

got improve in fc?

Myvi Sound System is known to be bad actually haha...but a person like me still could survive with it...Well...if you wish to change...Maybe you could ask our Sifu Kaycee / Superdemon. He pro ICE yo!

Problem as in?

Updated! Welcome to the Club

For me I would go for yellow and yes...It's very subjective...Depends on what you like...But if white is in your choice. I would go for that although it requires alot of effort to maintain it

I just would like to know if i want to change the speakers(front&back) is it all the 3rd party speaker is compatible or have to do some modification on socket to fit the speakers?Sifuuussss please advise~😁🙏🙏🙏

I think it can fit, just that the covers for the speaker cant cover your speaker anymore as it's bigger especially the one on the dashboard lol

guys..Im using Myvi extreme 1.5. I found that there are some rattling noise ("Tik Tik") came from the doors. (3 doors effected). I brought to Perodua service center during my 2nd service and asked them to rectify this issue.

After the service, they said they already fixed the issue for me. (Tighten the windows belt etc). Unfortunately the problem still persist. The (Tik Tik) noise really annoyed me. Any1 experience the same issue? Please help! =(

Does the problem only occur when the car is stationary ? Or maybe u could tell us when does the rattling noise occur?

It occur when the car start moving..But when I pulled the door while driving, the noise stop.Any idea?

This post has been edited by unrealmind: Jul 1 2012, 11:55 PM

The fc stayed around 6.9L / 100km..on stock spark plugs. Looking to go iridium again as it would be so much better! The response n torque definitely feel much better.. n I no longer need to fear traffic jam!

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Added on July 2, 2012, 12:49 amMaybe a cable in the door is lose....

This post has been edited by NaTypeR: Jul 2 2012, 12:49 AM

The problem is due to the misalignment of the striker bolt on the car chassis - it's that metallic U rod that holds the car door closed. As the chassis flexes when you drive, the striker bolt rubs against the catch, causing the tik tik sound you hear.

To solve this, you have to realign the striker bolt. The screws require a Torx, which would be the only problem you face as its quite difficult to source. The size is T11 if I'm not mistaken, so make sure it fits before you buy them. It'll cost you less than RM10, and it looks like an oversized Allen key.

Loosen the two screws, and use your finger to tighten them. Close and open the door a few times to get the striker bolt properly into place, then screw a quarter using the key. Rinse and repeat until the screws are very snug and tight (the amount of strength you used to loosen the screw will be an estimate on how tight it should be) and you should have a tick-free door after that.

Hope it helps for you.

edit: The torx head size is a T40, and not a T11 as I mentioned

This post has been edited by colinwong89: Jul 3 2012, 12:47 AM