QUOTE(Fawkes @ Apr 27 2013, 05:55 AM)
Hmm, the camera is quite bad at taking macro shot of a single flower fully covering the screen, my Galaxy S2 seems to be doing a much better job at that. Any tips at taking up close macro?
However, taking macro from a distance looks very good though, very good bokeh as well.

Unable to upload original quality as the file size exceeds 5mb. Resized using paint, lazy to use proper software to resize for now.

I have another question, how do you take photo when the sun is setting? The foreground will either be underexposed or the sky will look super overexposed (literally all white).
RX100's closest minimum focussing distance is at its widest focal range and due to the sensor size, isn't going to be as close as you can get from smaller sensored cameras.
For the exposure question, every camera and even the human eye can see limited dynamic range. When you have a strong backlit, either:
- Fill flash to balance the exposure
- Use reflector to balance the exposure
- Shoot RAW to capture all the sensor's data and push pull from post processing
- HDR
Personally I think auto HDR and DRO modes are kinda risky as the camera is making the judgement and quite frequently make the wrong judgement. It also rarely come out as imagined when I look at a scene.
This pic of cherry blossoms ( they measure about ~3-4cm ) is shot with the strong backlight ie the sky in RAW. Personally I think one of the strong points for the RX100 is the robust-ness of its raw files.
DSC03478 by
vmwt, on Flickr
This one is heavily cropped.
DSC03819 by
vmwt, on Flickr
ps: ISO125 has the best dynamic range.
QUOTE(my44 @ Apr 27 2013, 04:45 PM)
For exposure settings, some users here can better advice than me. Yes, blown exposures are common if you are not careful.
I haven't read and experimented much about EV balance and what-nots. Also, I think this is where the DRO (Dynamic Range Optimization) can come to the rescue but you will need A LOT of experimental photos that you need to view on a large screen LCD to see what works best. I think a few here can give some tips regarding this.
I love my RX100 and hope you do too!
It's not difficult. Just pay attention to the histogram before clicking the shutter button. If the graph is too cluttered to the left means underexposed, then +EV to move it closer to center, if its peaking to the right, then its overexposed... just dial -EV to move it to the left.
QUOTE(Fawkes @ Apr 30 2013, 02:12 AM)
Is there any way to remove the original file automatically when AutoHDR mode is enabled? I find the extra file wasting quite a lot of space and is a hassle to remove manually, what's the use of the original file actually?
Because auto-HDR could get funky when there's moving things... like ppl walking.... water for instance.... original file is there so the casual user still have useable photos for that epic vacation shot entirely with autoHDR cos he/she thinks it looks better
But seriously... it's just workflow.
Insert SD card/ plug in camera to computer... pull out the photos you want... format SD card = Done.
SD cards are dirt cheap even for the 32GB ones so its always better to make more photos than less.