From this 1

to this 1

to this 1

to this 1

and this 1

also not forgetting the great time we had with this 1

and this 1






many has benefited until we love it so much, my grandpa, my pa, and now me, we all know the real story




I can't think of a reason why NOT using it, I wish to have more!



One oil, one grade; many type of vehicle, one affordable price

I choose DUCKHAMS

Hehe... Those were REAL stuff,not kidding, but technicalwise, there are a lot need to take into consideration.

V12 is right about the heavy tepek sound. 1 must understand duckham is ultra heavy mineral oil. Nowadays most engines are hai kompresyen, valve springs are damn tight. Heavy engine oil may cause high FC. Valve lift may widen due to long time heavy motion.

Duck brand is very affordable & reliable. I use it mostly AFTER my car start to blow white smoke(wore off piston ring). Can extend my half dead engine for very long time

Depends on your luck & your driving style. If often redline & your crank was not well balanced, your piston ring die faster lo. If drive like makcik pergi pasar too often, valve seal carbon too thick then engine oil go in from valve ma white smoke lo.

Stationary no smoke, apply load smoke abit then no more = valve seal

Stationary got smoke, sure it smoke also when u drive(just don't realize/canot see due to moving wind) = piston ring

Itsogay, your sohighness is forgiben. On paper, the bottle will state whether its synthetic or cemi syn. Otherwise you can safely assume its mineral oil. Howeber, there is no other way to identify wtf is inside the bottle unless u sample it for lab testing. Some singh alingam will say use finger to feel,synthetic more sticky than mineral. My sperm also very sticky, can it be engine treatment or cure white smoke? I doubt

Sometimes hab, sometimes dun hab, is this the case? Randomly spray mosquito repellant izit? Only thing left is the breather valve in the rocker cover(not sure S4P engine got boh? Based on my past experience. Once your engine started, your whole intake system is vacuumized, suck everything include your deak. If the breather valve seaw ady, the it will release too much engine oil back to the intake air ram. To identify this, check your intake hose & your throttle body see whether greassy.

Comes to think of it, check your brake fluid also. If master pump leak INSIDE will not decrease your braking power, but pulling brakefluid back to your intake manifold! Until your brakefluid burnt out... Then you lose your brake

If not all this, defective crankshaft causes early worn off piston ring/Plotong forgot to fit in the ring for you Send back Plotong to rectify it. Or u can choose to ignore it, could be the vapour though...but not under hot sunny evening la.

Sorry guys, unable to attend tomolo. TQ amin for arranging the bulk.I will arrange the peymen 4 u as soon as I get to a computer,dun like to drag pple money. Hitting the sack now, just checking in. Most prolly is going to miss u guys a few days, Amin know my embarrasing shit. Meanwhile coolkwc saw my reply regarding your DBKL spray ubat nyamuk issue or not? If not scroll back a few pages & read la. Love u guys. Good nite. Long live Plotong Gaga BLM,FL & FLX!

I'm back from hell! So as my Pale *******. Both of us suffered heavy tension test over the weekend! To have full cars of fat dude like me in the poor BLM rushing all over Karak hiway+Genting is a true punish to ma car anyway, clutch no slip, brake was seriusly worn out.

Was thinking of drop by Yau Yip today, prolly tomorrow also. Anybody go there?

This is the 3rd round ady. Nothing muh on the 1st & 2nd experience bcoz car kosong. But this time with 3 fat arse averge 100kg weight each in the car. Up hill need to use 2nd gear 5krpm. Downhill oso need to brake very early as the std brake couldn't cope up. When reaching Gohthong Jaya ady can smell rubber burning, so we stop by 7-11 & found the brake is "smoking". After 1/2 TT, continue journey with no problem, but don't dare to tauke ady consider the extra load in the car & std brakepad. Overall std bosch brakepad is very acceptible & survived such torture.

A side note, got this advice from magician, so I practiced with caution. Do not leave your left foot on the clutch pedal after release. Many will leave their feet there conveniently for clutching. Magician said this type of hydraulic clutch can easily engaged without knowledge, with certain weight applied, clutch plate will grind the disc without driver's knowledge. Like Genting this type of tauke road, till u realize clutch worn out is too late ady. Your ride prolly jammed at 2/3 gear unable to clutch, or if u get lucky RPM go up, but u lose torque unable to climb hill anymore. To conclude, fast disengage clutch is actually 1 of many ways to prolong clutch life, & not leaving our feet on the clutch pedal to protect it from grinding the disc whilst driving. Hope this help.

Thanks to all bros feedback. A super duper busy day, met Wuakaka & took some of his messy chassis. Finally changed to 15 inches wheels. Needless to say, handling x999time improved! F*ck M3 stock tyres!

According to Yau Yip, my engine oil overdosed! Provided the TRD spoiler that causes another 99kg+downforce @ 10kmh,useless M3 tyre,catcon inplace,standard air-filter. With all that side effects the heavy fuel consumption. Thanks to Ah Wai. Also fixed the key ring lights, now my key ring is no longer dull and happy to see that now

Just got home! What a long² day! Just to share with you guys, I finally found a NOT SO offset rim to fit into my Pale B@stard. However, this is a frank advice to those who plan to go for 15" rims.



195/55/15 definitely wouldn't work without knocking fender arch. According to 4 eyed sifu, even if you put in 50 series tyre, it wouldn't help much. You have LESS knocking only. Reason being... refer photo below



I hope you understand I'm trying to point out the wheelarch itself is designed too fit for a 14" wheels. So, we have few problem which future modder should take into consideration if wanna go for 15" and above:

1) If offset outward too much, confirm kena fender arch.
2) If offset inward too much.... it will look like old SAGA/ISWARA wheels. Damn horrible & old fashion
3) If rim width is 7J and above, you not only hit the fender arch, it will hit the absorber as well
4) My 55 series tyre is VERY COMFORTABLE. It doesn't feel like change tyre ady, but if I have >2 adults at my backseat, if I go over bumb/hole, exit carpark my tyre will sangku fender, I also added spring buffer to lift the car slightly higher to avoid sangkut too often.
5) The opposite of point no.4, if tyre is too thin like 50series and below, there is a big chance the car will eat up some comfort, become more bumpy

Meanwhile, another bravo for Ah Wai as I mentioned earlier

Thanks again to Ah Wai.

Also felt sorry to see Wuakaka's ride... downstairs all wet ady


In late evening called to wake up Huzaifa, sorry to disturb. Paid up, TT a bit, go out tauke abit, then go home DIY ady, say sorry again couldn't make it last weekend DIY TT.


I guess I'm the only 1 found the rubber got super duper effect. My original was not attach correctly after JPJ inspection So, after I tear the original off, replaced them with the new frame seal, and all the usual noise has gone Last time because all the lobang didn't cover correctly, therefore can really hear vehicle passing by kao², now no more already . Apart from that, basically nothing has changed. I didn't feel the GRAND feeling of closing an expansive continental car door no matter how I slam or gently close it.

Anyway, blardy tired already. Good nite guys.

FLX SE came wt std 195/50/15, offset is inward exactly like 424 mentioned. Therefore u hv no problem with tayar sangkut issue(not permenant) until 1 day you have full load,whilst in tauke action then sangkutlah overall, new SAGA+old SAGA share the same setup for the rear arch, wide rim/tyre kena absorber/fender arch. If u able to find thin rim & correct ofset, u have no worry, for example:

13 rim jejari 5.0 = 175/70R13
Tak sangkut

14 rim jejari 5.5 = 185/60R14
Tak sangkut

15 rim jejari 6.0 = 195/50R15
Kalau offset outward,sangkut fender

16 rim jejari 6.5 = 205/40R16
Kalau offset outward,sangkut fender; if inward offset,sangkut absorber

17 rim jejari 7.0 = semua sangkut, kecuali potong fender,kasi offset outward then no problem, tapi keta macam big foot la

Bear in mind, most 15" rim already wide 6.5 inch, so unless u go for FLX SE rim provided tyre series remain 50 or below(if any). Alternatively, get thinner rim.

To conclude, rim15 & above, poning kepala :star:

For the door frame seal, I sampei umah dah lewat, can't find anything to cut the extras. The 1st strip I did was driver's side, carik carik talak gunteng, so I pakei nail clipper to cut the extra after half an hour hardwork, finally cut off the extras. Masa tu dah tengah malam, out of tired and frustration, I tulan pull off the safety belt cover... Ish! Senang! so, I only spend less than 10 minutes to bikin the rest of the 3 doors, no need cut anything, just use the seat belt cover to cover them all

Key ring lite was done by Ah Wai from Yau Yip. Paid him kopi duet then kautim. Tapikan, don't have timer/cut off mechanism. Usual key ring RULES as below:

1) Door open=on
2) Door close timer 20 seconds off
3) If door closed, start engine before 20 second, off lite over ruled condition2

So, currently simple aje la. Janji ada lampu

Worlwide road safety consensus is:

1) Shut the door as soon as you get in
2) Lock the door as door has shut
3) Step on brake pedal, ensure transmission is free/engaged in PARK position.
4) Ignite engine
5) Safety belt & other shyt, sendiri go google

Being this kind of consesnsus because:

1) Crosswind that blow your door wide open, can try this at highway roadside. Make sure I'm not following behind, perhaps ZEONE can try to flyby whilst u trying

2) Most hijaak happened whilst car is started & door not closed

Occupational safety & health got training on this also. Next time TT give u more lecture

Thread is not dying. Just refused to spam. No point making post like u fark me, I fark u back. Wtf is my farkin shyt? What shyt yu toking abt? That shyt la u farker. U fark me for what? Fark that shyt la! Shyt u oso fark? U r 1 deep farking shyt...etc. Try get ERIC become TS again, sure will kena spam kau2 again

P/s: no mean of provoking, be it MyBi or BiBA, we're all car enthusiast & that's it.

Got caught!

Cleber boy

What Timer Module?

1x500kUF capacitor
1xdiod
1x5 way relay

That's the timer if I have the capacity, would have mass production & make profit liao.

500kUF to kumpul battery so it result in slow dim timer module.

1 way diod to refrain other component in the car to draw power from the 500kUF temporary "battery"

5 way relay as below:
+ for main power
- for ground
Switch ON to connect door swith
Switch OFF to connect alternator
Output connect DIOD then Capacitor then LED

When door switch is triggered, relay turn on output, diod take 1 way current to charge up capacitor, then LED lite up

When door closed, relay stop output. Diod refrain current flow back, capacitor continue supply power to LED until power drained

If alternator start charging(engine started), relay cut off supply to diod, capacitor continue supply power to LED until capacitor power drained

To have instant switch off LED after engine start, can add in another relay AFTER capacitor. When alternator start charging, staright away cut off power from capacitor.

Time to get down to busines liao

I think I know what you mean geh. So the transister act as switch for the alternator/ACC & door swtch on/off la? Than the capacitor as usual as a power buffer la? Then the resistors actually use as a time to calculator la? u r 1 smart cookie never thought of that.

Anyway, pls regularly inspect the resistors. Last time my MAZDA 808 time CD player veli expansive, so I actually use resistors & capacity as voltage regulator to custom made a voltage tranformers to run a computer CDROM as ICE. After sometimes, few month later the resistors become unstable & burn my dashboard

They chopped it off, weld a new flexihorse? Or they replace the damn thing from catcon all the way to mid box?

If chopped off rewelding, besides easily rust, look ugly & more blockage. U ask Yau Yip la regarding the consequences.

Topic? Well... you guys might be interested to this. Its my car. After last weekend tauke at Genting, I've decided this engine is too weak, so I mod it

You can heel & toe on a drive by wire engine?

After I spent money kau² this 2 months, eg:

1) To downpayment my 2nd hand BLM
2) Restore the thing so its drive-able since it stationed for a year, things include
- Battery
- Industrial alcohol(pour into petrol tank to start the car, to clean all the residue in the petrol tank)
- Air-Filter
- Engine oil + oil filter
- Gear oil
- Power steering fluid
- Brake fluid
- None anti-freeze radiator fluid with anti rust
3) Sport rims + tyres
4) New OEM door frame seal
5) Vacuum gauge and holder + soft silicone vacuum hose

When I was happily wandering why am I having so much extra cash in hand... my company hand me a letter , contain EA form inside

This post has been edited by davidke20: Apr 25 2012, 08:06 PM

Missing post happened quite often lately. Don't know why. But I saw your reply. Yes, 2 thing in the world is unavoidable, which is death and tax.

Recent observation of SAGA BLM's vacuum reading as below:

Idling without air-con compressor, around 18inches mercury vacuum

Idling with air-con compressor, around 13inches mercury vacuum

5 inches of vacuum has wasted on the air-con compressor alone! Those who keep on complaining BLM draining petrol, having your air-con running idle in the car whilst waiting for your mother come out from pasar, or waiting for your girlfriend off the office is seriously unwise.

Meanwhile, I'm considering to change air-con compressor whenever I see fit. Just to make sure I get a lighter compressor so I have less power loss and hopefully better fuel efficiency.

p/s: Whenever income tax is around the corner, all we can think of is where have all the money gone? Now I know part of the expanses has contributed to unwanted/not needed waste of petrol whilst waiting for appointment in the car. Instead, next time get down the vehicle have a quick smoke or get a bottle of mineral water to chill out your hot brain(or you can do beer ).

---

Added on April 25, 2012, 8:12 pmMoved back the post here better la. Over there is a hassle to switching discussion here & there, besides ERIC is not the boss here, not too worry though.

Regarding your statement of 1litre ~ 2 litre engine... I'm not too sure what you mean. But I can read it as HEAVY air-con compressor. 5 inches mercury vacuum is very abnormal. However, reading of vacuum all depending on the vehicle alone(not speaking for the entire model). So, it COULD BE my car alone having this problem. For now I'm sure my air-con compressor is the culprit of drinking all my petrol


This post has been edited by davidke20: Apr 25 2012, 08:12 PM