Thats like saying "but my civic is using the same Ron97 as your porshe"
(i initially used proton and civic, but figured some ppl might not like it lol)

Eh sorry bro, din realize you were into SPL. In that case yeah man, 600w@4ohm where got enough?

ouch.... but true lol.

i use proton, but i dun use ron97.....

Now I know what izso actually meant...........

aiyoh, if proton and civic then have to go with Ron95 la.

Eh nooooooooooooo... your car had plenty of details. The sound wasn't dynamic and lively to my liking. My kind of music wouldn't do well in your setup but vocals in your car would beat mine flat out. Howie lives in his own little world (or perhaps it's ME that lives in my own world) so don't take his words as mine

But gotta give the fella credit, he knows what I like and can give me what I want. I finally got my Dyns replaced by a unbranded tweeter that Howie swore that I'd like.. and he was right! Dang these tweeters are good!


Jasdeep : Depending on your requirements (SPL or SQ), we cannot decide which subs are good and which aren't. To me the JL W6 is plenty good and already outperforms most subs I've come across. But at the same time the Fi sub that I've come across does way better in blasting out the SPL bass lines and some say comparable to the JL W7's. The Type-X isn't a SPL sub and has extremely good response times and sounds great, but to me it's overpriced and for the same money I'd rather get another sub. If you're looking for SPL, the Soundstream 15" Tarantula sub that's in CV Audio Uptown Damansara will go way louder that the Type-X if powered properly.

As for class-AB vs class-D, the sound differences isn't heaven and earth. But it's obvious enough to convert a lot of believers. In the past when I still had my JL W3v2, I used an Alpine monoblock, the venerable MRD605 and the bigger brother MRD1005. Class-D bliss was what I had until I got my hands on an even older gem, the Orion HCCA 250 G4 and the monstrous bigger brother Orion HCCA 275 G4. Both these class AB amps were stable bridged at 0.5ohms and the 275 had over 1000w of RMS power when bridged at 1ohm. Both amps were severely underrated and were churning out waaaaaaaaaay more power than advertised.

The difference in sound? Bass was sharper, tighter and in some cases, faster. Trying playing the soundtrack for the Pirates of the Carribean 1 on your setup then compare it with a setup that uses a class AB. The difference will be like day and night for that heavy bass dependent song.

I'm not trying to tell you that your setup is rubbish - because it's not. It's damn good and your stuff is pretty high end. But don't be so smitten into believing yours is the best and nothing else is better. There's always room for improvement but like what Krayden said - it all boils down to whether you're happy or not with your setup. If you've reached the peak of its performance and want more - then open your ears to alternatives. If you're happy where you are - don't come out for TT to poison yourself.

Np izso, i was just messing with you.
Your last paragraph is very well put.

roflmao.
this one very subtle.

haha, ok what u said made alot of sense. so there is a difference with the AB and D class Mono. Which digital Amp AB in the region of 2.5k and below would u recommend? i wouldnt mind changing mine.

2.5k? I'd say keep yours. It's hard to find a class AB mono these days. Unless you don't mind bridging a class AB, but most bridged amps don't have a lot of power unless it had big power to begin with.

A 2nd hand TRU Billet might fit that budget though.

hmm then ill stay with my mono Alpine. Bought it new.

First batch MYVI :
- Prefer SQL but more to SQ
- Source: MP3/CD
- Genre of music : Top40/Jazz
- Setup type preferences: just bought DEH-1450UB later plan to build an active autdio system
- Other requirements : i think need to do sound proof, for MYVI open volume at 25 above will got the plastic shaking noise :S

Budget within 2k, any recommended ?

Can be done. But I recommend custom door panels first. Stock speakers are just not enough even after upgrade imho.

Alpine Type R will do and a good 2/4 channel amp. Try sound stream amp to fit the budget.

- My ride: VIOS J
- Prefers SQ/SPL/SQL: SQL
- File format/medium used for my source: FLAC(optional), mp3 320kbps
- Music genre: Trance, Vocal song
- Budget: RM 5000
- Setup type preferences: What is this??
- Other requirements (if any): Sked void warranty

im thinking dominations should be suitable for you. and considering your requirements of voiding warranty, perhaps have a pm/chat with howiechoo from ea autoworks?

Can break down the things i need for my ICE?

Headunit:
Speaker:
Amps

What else?

What influence the most on the sound quality? drivers?

My planning is

front 2 tweeter , 2 speaker
back 2 8" speaker/ sub
Amps
Driver isit gonna cost > 5000?

This post has been edited by munak991: Sep 27 2012, 11:42 PM

you can pay attention to TT/gatherings so you can audition other people's setup before committing, and can learn a lot from fellow ICErs on their experience/setup (why choose the setup etc)

The Vios J has pretty crappy sound proofing so I'd suggest to spend some of that budget on soundproofing the doors and perhaps even the floor.

Since you're looking at MP3s generally, then a simple Alpine 9853 or something similar will suffice. Big powerful amp with dynamic sound speakers like Dynoaudios would be great but outta your budget. Howie's got these un-named tweeters that have great dynamism. Will really suit your type of music which essentially is what I'm using. Hehe.. come come let me poison you with my car.

bro just to enquire, how much would a pair of dynoaudio component speakers cost?

Brand new you're looking the region of 2.5k and above. That's the non-esotar/esotec range. The 3-way is in the 5k price range. The highest end Esotec/esotar sell their speakers separately and the tweeter alone is 3k.

You rarely see this brand for sale 2nd hand too so I can't tell you how much these are.

wow tweeter alone rm 3k
can buy my whole ICE system that price