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 Arowana Lovers V6, All about Arowana

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leggedy
post Apr 10 2012, 10:49 AM

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weekly water change is mandatory..coz K1 cultivate nitrifying bacteria..not denitrifying bact..so nitrate still build up and nowhere to be breakdown into nitrogen..

And power head is not recommended, i've tried it already..those k1 will got stuck at the inlet from time to time..a headache one..strong aeration is the best edi..
Kelv1n
post Apr 10 2012, 11:00 AM

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QUOTE(leggedy @ Apr 10 2012, 10:49 AM)
weekly water change is mandatory..coz K1 cultivate nitrifying bacteria..not denitrifying bact..so nitrate still build up and nowhere to be breakdown into nitrogen..

And power head is not recommended, i've tried it already..those k1 will got stuck at the inlet from time to time..a headache one..strong aeration is the best edi..
*
hmm...i wanted to ask this long time ago...is there any possible way to breakdown nitrates? denitrator? hmm.gif

strong aeration like eheim airpump 400? ? >> http://www.eheim.com/products/detail/Air-Pump

my 6footer sump tank is approximately 4 x 1.5 x 1.5...divided into 4 compartments.. .1st compartment for those matts....2nd compartment will be bio-homes and corals.....3rd will be k1 media...4th will be uv sterilizer, heater and return pump.... im worried that 1 arowana is not enough to build up the BB housing or even fill it up...is there a way to do so? i remember the 1st theory for filter ; more is always better laugh.gif

This post has been edited by Kelv1n: Apr 10 2012, 11:02 AM
Mahathir Mohamed
post Apr 10 2012, 11:14 AM

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i thought uv light will kill all the bacteria including the good one?if yes i believe the best is to go thru uv 1st adn then all the media?
Kelv1n
post Apr 10 2012, 11:22 AM

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QUOTE(Mahathir Mohamed @ Apr 10 2012, 11:14 AM)
i thought uv light will kill all the bacteria including the good one?if yes i believe the best is to go thru uv 1st adn then all the media?
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my UV light is placed at the last compartment safely ...my BB will be colonized at the 1st..2nd and 3rd compartment..which i don think the UV sterilizer will affect it...correct my if im wrong hmm.gif
leggedy
post Apr 10 2012, 11:31 AM

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QUOTE(Kelv1n @ Apr 10 2012, 11:00 AM)
hmm...i wanted to ask this long time ago...is there any possible way to breakdown nitrates? denitrator?  hmm.gif

strong aeration like eheim airpump 400?  ? >> http://www.eheim.com/products/detail/Air-Pump

my 6footer sump tank is approximately 4 x 1.5 x 1.5...divided into 4 compartments.. .1st compartment for those matts....2nd compartment will be bio-homes and corals.....3rd will be k1 media...4th will be uv sterilizer, heater and return pump.... im worried that 1 arowana is not enough to build up the BB housing or even fill it up...is there a way to do so? i remember the 1st theory for filter ; more is always better  laugh.gif
*
normal filteration cant remove nitrate..we can use denitrator but using a denitrator isn't simple at all..since bacteria in anaerobic state will release a deadly toxic gases..i havent been into denitrator yet..

In nature, deep layer of soil is anaerobic condition..so i need not go in depth on this..besides, plants and tree absorb nitrate as their nutrients..
Mahathir Mohamed
post Apr 10 2012, 11:32 AM

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QUOTE(Kelv1n @ Apr 10 2012, 11:22 AM)
my UV light is placed at the last compartment safely ...my BB will be colonized at the 1st..2nd and 3rd compartment..which i don think the UV sterilizer will affect it...correct my if im wrong  hmm.gif
*
sifu's?any advice..??because my setup is the water flor to the uv 1st and then thru all the media before release back to the tank..and i wont turn on the uv all the time..only once in a while to counter the algae bloom..what is the best advice and practice..


Added on April 10, 2012, 11:33 am
QUOTE(leggedy @ Apr 10 2012, 11:31 AM)
normal filteration cant remove nitrate..we can use denitrator but using a denitrator isn't simple at all..since bacteria in anaerobic state will release a deadly toxic gases..i havent been into denitrator yet..

In nature, deep layer of soil is anaerobic condition..so i need not go in depth on this..besides, plants and tree absorb nitrate as their nutrients..
*
so go n get a small plant?hehehe..


Added on April 10, 2012, 11:38 am
QUOTE(Kelv1n @ Apr 10 2012, 11:00 AM)
hmm...i wanted to ask this long time ago...is there any possible way to breakdown nitrates? denitrator?  hmm.gif

strong aeration like eheim airpump 400?  ? >> http://www.eheim.com/products/detail/Air-Pump

my 6footer sump tank is approximately 4 x 1.5 x 1.5...divided into 4 compartments.. .1st compartment for those matts....2nd compartment will be bio-homes and corals.....3rd will be k1 media...4th will be uv sterilizer, heater and return pump.... im worried that 1 arowana is not enough to build up the BB housing or even fill it up...is there a way to do so? i remember the 1st theory for filter ; more is always better  laugh.gif
*
how much is the eheim air pump?

This post has been edited by Mahathir Mohamed: Apr 10 2012, 11:38 AM
leggedy
post Apr 10 2012, 11:44 AM

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QUOTE(Kelv1n @ Apr 10 2012, 11:22 AM)
my UV light is placed at the last compartment safely ...my BB will be colonized at the 1st..2nd and 3rd compartment..which i don think the UV sterilizer will affect it...correct my if im wrong  hmm.gif
*
placing UV at last compartment is good choice..

If we place it in the first compartment, lotsa bact will die before they can really mutliply to colonize the medias at the 2nd and 3rd compartment.. Unless u seperated the first compartment, half for UV half for mechanical..or u used a external UV filter where half of the water pass thru the UV and the other half return direct to 1st compartment..

Why i say last compartment is good coz, all the bact that are free flowing around the tank will enter our sump tank first compartment, mechanical breakdown the waste filtering the solid waste while the bact wasnt affected and colonize the medias..and if there is any bad bact that would harm the fish, they will definately be killed off at the last compartment..

Same as a canister that comes with UV, the UV is place at the last part where water return to the tank..


Added on April 10, 2012, 11:47 amgetting only one small plant couldn't helps in absorbing all the nitrates..if really that simple, anti- chlorine company edi bankrupt..

By the way, kelvin, am using pond pump to power up K1 medias..lol..
Ps, my k1 is about 30liters..LOL..

This post has been edited by leggedy: Apr 10 2012, 11:47 AM
Kelv1n
post Apr 10 2012, 11:51 AM

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QUOTE(Mahathir Mohamed @ Apr 10 2012, 11:32 AM)
sifu's?any advice..??because my setup is the water flor to the uv 1st and then thru all the media before release back to the tank..and i wont turn on the uv all the time..only once in a while to counter the algae bloom..what is the best advice and practice..


Added on April 10, 2012, 11:33 am

so go n get a small plant?hehehe..


Added on April 10, 2012, 11:38 am

how much is the eheim air pump?
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not sure bro..need to check at LFS.. and i wonder is that pump strong enough... i wonder is there any better/stronger air pump than eheim airpump 400? hmm.gif ...the stronger the air pump, the better for k1 media aeration and circulation..then the better self cleaning and bb works better in aerated environment rclxms.gif


Added on April 10, 2012, 11:54 am
QUOTE(leggedy @ Apr 10 2012, 11:44 AM)
placing UV at last compartment is good choice..

If we place it in the first compartment, lotsa bact will die before they can really mutliply to colonize the medias at the 2nd and 3rd compartment.. Unless u seperated the first compartment, half for UV half for mechanical..or u used a external UV filter where half of the water pass thru the UV and the other half return direct to 1st compartment..

Why i say last compartment is good coz, all the bact that are free flowing around the tank will enter our sump tank first compartment, mechanical breakdown the waste filtering the solid waste while the bact wasnt affected and colonize the medias..and if there is any bad bact that would harm the fish, they will definately be killed off at the last compartment..

Same as a canister that comes with UV, the UV is place at the last part where water return to the tank..


Added on April 10, 2012, 11:47 amgetting only one small plant couldn't helps in absorbing all the nitrates..if really that simple, anti- chlorine company edi bankrupt..

By the way, kelvin, am using pond pump to power up K1 medias..lol..
Ps, my k1 is about 30liters..LOL..
*
pond.....pump.................30......litres.......... rclxub.gif rclxub.gif rclxub.gif .................................. mind sharing a picture how does it look like? shocking.gif

This post has been edited by Kelv1n: Apr 10 2012, 11:56 AM
leggedy
post Apr 10 2012, 02:42 PM

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i will try to post asap..as currently my ethernet down..lol..havent got the time to get one yet..
Mahathir Mohamed
post Apr 11 2012, 02:10 PM

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going out to get daun ketapang today..lalalalala..hahahaha..need to lower the ph la..
Kelv1n
post Apr 11 2012, 02:36 PM

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My arowana seems lot better..no more scratching and stressing..acting normal.now....lol...i think is bad water water problem lol.... Thanks guys
Devillsin
post Apr 11 2012, 03:00 PM

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Guys are arowanas that are labelled as High Back are they actually HBRTG ? In irene aquarium they have HB selling for rm799 BUT there are some that look like RTG but then there are a couple which are in white tank and look like normal malaysia gold arowana but still labelled as HB. Any one can clear my confusion ? or is HB just being used to indicate the degree of gold shine to the rtg's and goldies ?


Added on April 11, 2012, 4:40 pmand guys is it a safe idea to add in substrate to an already established tank ?

This post has been edited by Devillsin: Apr 11 2012, 04:40 PM
leggedy
post Apr 11 2012, 11:03 PM

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QUOTE(Devillsin @ Apr 11 2012, 03:00 PM)
Guys are arowanas that are labelled as High Back are they actually HBRTG ?  In irene aquarium they have HB selling for rm799 BUT there are some that look like RTG but then there are a couple which are in white tank and look like normal malaysia gold arowana but still labelled as HB. Any one can clear my confusion ?  or is HB just being used to indicate the degree of gold shine to the rtg's and goldies ?


Added on April 11, 2012, 4:40 pmand guys is it a safe idea to add in substrate to an already established tank ?
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bro..HB and RTG in current arowana trade is like the same fish..they dun really bother..moreover, the breeder mix em in the same pond..as long as the breeder get eggs, then wtt, high shine, sell..thats all they do..genetic? They dun give a shit..

And u mentioned hb in white tank, so is normal if hb in white tank and looks high shine, moreover i been to irene aquarium before they are good in making illusion to mask up the arowana..red aro, put black tank, add lotsa black water, use red light..gold aro, white tank, light blackwater, yellow or white lights..

Supposingly, for aro grading..
Lowest shine is RTG, matured, max shine at level 4scale..
HB, max shine at 4.5level..
SHB max shine at level 5 or 5.5, but little pearlies..
XB, max shine is full crossing level 6, full pearlies..no gold head, maybe two to 4 lines..
GHXB, full crossing, full pearlies, forehead with shine..

U can add substrate to ur establish tank..no problem, but make sure u add in carefully..since water level is high, so sure will cloud the water..to be safe, ADA soil is the old that gives u the lowest cloudiness..


Added on April 11, 2012, 11:05 pm
QUOTE(Kelv1n @ Apr 11 2012, 02:36 PM)
My arowana seems lot better..no more scratching and stressing..acting normal.now....lol...i think is bad water water problem lol.... Thanks guys
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good to know that..maintain weekly wc bro..at least once a week..best is twice a week..

This post has been edited by leggedy: Apr 11 2012, 11:05 PM
Kelv1n
post Apr 12 2012, 09:22 AM

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here are some latest pics just to share... critics and comments are all welcome tongue.gif

user posted image

user posted image

recently i addded rm2 small gold feeder fish...total of 24 of them...and actually im very happy that my arowana start eating eat cause previously he never bother them...but now after adding 24 feeder fish in them in 3 days..all of them are gone...am i feeding too much? should i release all the feeder fish with arowana or dont....?
leggedy
post Apr 12 2012, 09:56 AM

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feeder fishes = dangerous contaminations..diseases, parasites..
Kelv1n
post Apr 12 2012, 10:10 AM

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QUOTE(leggedy @ Apr 12 2012, 09:56 AM)
feeder fishes = dangerous contaminations..diseases, parasites..
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yea i know but wat if we quarantine it 1st? so we're not recommended to fish feeder fish to aros?
Mahathir Mohamed
post Apr 12 2012, 11:51 AM

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QUOTE(Kelv1n @ Apr 12 2012, 10:10 AM)
yea i know but wat if we quarantine it 1st? so we're not recommended to fish feeder fish to aros?
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If u quarantine them in diff tank and put in d madicine to kill intrnl n extrnal bacteria should be ok..but better safe then sorry..btw notice that u dun have any air pump..no air pump means chenical build up will be fast n the only way to counter is frequent wc since no air pocket to break down d chemicak..my 2cent..not pro enough to propose anythng..maybe thats the cost of bad water quality?

This post has been edited by Mahathir Mohamed: Apr 12 2012, 11:52 AM
Kelv1n
post Apr 12 2012, 11:58 AM

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QUOTE(Mahathir Mohamed @ Apr 12 2012, 11:51 AM)
If u quarantine them in diff tank and put in d madicine to kill intrnl n extrnal bacteria should be ok..but better safe then sorry..btw notice that u dun have any air pump..no air pump means chenical build up will be fast n the only way to counter is frequent wc since no air pocket to break down d chemicak..my 2cent..not pro enough to propose anythng..maybe thats the cost of bad water quality?
*
omg i din know that air bubbles breaks down chemical.. shocking.gif i saw alot other fishtanks doesnt have air bubbles..so i did not ask further....if so, then i think is btter to get 1 air bubble in the tank?

This post has been edited by Kelv1n: Apr 12 2012, 11:59 AM
leggedy
post Apr 12 2012, 12:58 PM

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QUOTE(Kelv1n @ Apr 12 2012, 10:10 AM)
yea i know but wat if we quarantine it 1st? so we're not recommended to fish feeder fish to aros?
*
quarantine takes about 3days..added with medicine..the green medicine..

The best and safest will be pellet, no doubt..lol..

Followed by mp, bf, centipede, sw, cricket, feeders..


Added on April 12, 2012, 1:03 pm
QUOTE(Kelv1n @ Apr 12 2012, 11:58 AM)
omg i din know that air bubbles breaks down chemical.. shocking.gif  i saw alot other fishtanks doesnt have air bubbles..so i did not ask further....if so, then i think is btter to get 1 air bubble in the tank?
*
in fish keeping, air bubble are use to age water, the air bubble create movement on water surface which helps greatly in removing chlorine..coz chlorine is in gas form..if u aged water by jz storing it will also remove chlorine but slower..so added with air bubble, the movement created at the surface will quicken the removing of chlorine gases..

Air bubble doesnt remove ammonia, nitrite or nitrate neither do they helps convert nitrate to nitrogen..

This post has been edited by leggedy: Apr 12 2012, 01:05 PM
Devillsin
post Apr 12 2012, 01:22 PM

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guys if add soil into tank , will it block the sump filter intake ? like for my tank the water flows into the sump filter through this little slit on the left hand side of the tank.pretty sure you guys know what slit im talking about tongue.gif won't the substrate block the slit and stop the water flow ?


Added on April 12, 2012, 2:40 pmmy arowana looks identical to Kelvin's . just that its maybe slightly larger and the colours are more pronounced haha

This post has been edited by Devillsin: Apr 12 2012, 02:40 PM

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