Well Qwikfab doesnt charge much on shipping, only SGD15 to Melaka.

Try check the cost to ship to your place.
http://web.qwikfab.com/

Its not possible to resume a print that fail halfway unless you know how to manipulate the gcode of the file.

I have problems like this before and it depends on a few factors.

You might want to check your power supply and the cable.connecting to the printer, I had a problem once where the power supply shorted internally and had to open the sealed laptop case to fix the problem. Another is to see if any of the power supply wire is melting. I had a power supply wire barrel plug melted a little and the wires inside was slightly burnt.

Another issue is due to the usb communication, make sure to use a cable as short as possible to avoid any data loss. USB supplies 5 volts so their voltage drop a tremendously over long distance. A 1 meter cable will have more data loss than a 10 cm cable. Also winding a long cable around a ferrite core helps in reducing noise.

Also, if you think your house have electrical issues, you might want to invest in a uninterruptable power supply, UPS unit. At least the backup battery will sort out any micro power interruptions and also keep your printed running during a black out.

just pull it out, I printed mine a new knob did not use the original one
I just did a clean up with a blow torch same results I even swapped thermistor location does not make any different

be gentle  , the knob just push fitted nothing is holding it just friction, use a screw driver slide under it to center of the screw driver and slowly push your screw driver upward, be careful not to damage the pcb board

good place to start!, by the way remove the paper covering the buzzer

http://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration

all depend on what firmware you are running, flashed firmware can't be accessed, only thing you can do is EEPROM value that if it is enabled,

I'm using marlin & repitier firmware, I strongly suggest not to touch any of the firmware setting first use as it is unless you want to update the firmware to add more features

flashing firmware to arduino normally we use Arduino IDE which you can download from arduino.cc

where your location again?

lol it will be expensive to buy online saw someone on lelong.com.my selling them but cheaper to buy walk-in

Hi guys just checking with you all. I have a Prusa i3 I noticed that the mosfet gets really HOT when using the heated bed. Melted my connecter as it was touching it. Anybody tried using the 12v from RAMPS to trigger a relay which getting the 12v from the PSU and then feed to the heated bed and hotend? I have 2 outputs available on my PSU and my PSU is 30A. Thinking of changing it for the hotend and also the heated bed. Thank you.

If your comfortable with a soldering iron, you could move the mosfets over to a heatsink block and put a fan over it. That's what i did (see the pic afew posts ago)

Just sharing with you guys. Not sure if it's been shared here before or not. Just got my PLA from these guys:-

Global Manufacturing Solutions
No 6: Jalan 1;
Kawasan Perindustrian Hi-Tech 2,
Jalan Sungai Lalang,
Semenyih

RM64 for a spool of 1kg PLA. Quite nicely priced I think. They also have stepper motor with a nice price as well. The senior manager actually came down to see me which is a suprise. He mentioned that they are planning to manufacture their own hotend and also controller board. Anyway you can check their website website:-http://www.yumeprinter.com. Hope this helps.

So far I've printed about 20m of their filament. I don't have any experience using other filament but I feel the quality is quite good. The temp would be about 210-225/230. I tried running at 190-200 but the layers are not sticking. Running at 225/230 for the first layer and 210 for the rest, I experience no stringing and the print was good (at least for me). Hope this helps. You can do a pick up even for one spool if not you can order online from their store and they will send using GD Express with a charge. I was around that area so I just drop by and get it from them. Their manager who is incharge of 3D printing division even spent about 30 minutes talking to me.

Nope not using a heat bed or tape. Just glass bed with a layer of glue stick. The first layer do stick to the print bed (maybe due to the glue) but between layers it doesn't stick. I tested increasing 5 degrees at a time until it stick well between layers. Maybe it's due to my thermistor position like was mentioned.

try calling them http://www.yellowpages.my/site/pacificmachinery

If you can spend a bit more, try and replace your threaded rods with lead screws. Lead screws are meant for linear motion translation unlike threaded rods which is meant for holding work piece together.

Try looking back a few pages of posts in this topic since some of us have been posting up spare parts sources for 3D printers.

You could bring your own hack saw and cut the threaded rod there