Warping?
Might refer to this guide although you are not using Ultimaker.
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide

we dont agak-agak the distant we use a very precise and sophisticated tool which is a piece of paper 

this is basic reprap leveling bed,

http://reprap.org/wiki/Leveling_the_Print_Bed

or watch this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ED1Gxvw2Rmw

My experiment with abs juice without heatbed

I have a still-not-in-use-and-not-sold 0.3 mm China JHead hotend for sale. I have been using this Jhead model for all of my prints and so far I have not have any problems with it and all of my prints turned out really nice. I won't be able to sell you the nozzle alone and besides, you have to get the whole hotend since the nozzle is part of the heating block. If you are interested, you can PM me more about it.

[attachmentid=4328381]

Housing for my RPI? I prefer it naked...



My recommendation, just print a housing for it and attach it to your reprap. It will save you the trouble from unplgging and setting it up as you move the printer around and protects it from dust and PLA/ABS stringing buildup.

This is wonderful.  Spent the whole day reading learnt so much on 3D printing.  Count me in... looking to get one for some fun and printing.  Will continue to do my research and update if I actually take the plunge. 

http://www.yumeprinter.com/product-category/filament/

I've been seeing these guys post in some fb groups i'm in, not sure about quality but price is def cheap

converted my mendelmax 1.5 to something diffrent, still need to recalibrate Z and bed leveling my inductive sensor decide to fail on me so have to manually level the bed now  , changed the heated to aluminum heatbed but I can't get the dam thing to heat up too 110c, I only able to heat it up to 80c never go beyond that I'm using 12v 30A power supply and only heating the bed my extruder have no problem getting to 230c seem the printer does not want to print ABS just yet 

plus last week the green ramps connector melted on me, I always see warning about the connector melting and I see it first hand , and any idea on the heat bed, don't really want to install back my mk2a heat bed to test lol

capacitive not capacity it 2 different thing

You may want to get a separate solid state switch and a dedicated power supply for your Heater bed because the controller board is not meant to take in very high currents ( more than 10 A) at one time. The melted green connector indicate the connector is not designed for such currents and I have mentioned before that it is not recommended to directly connect the heater bed to the controller board and instead to be safe, use the heat bed output to control a high current solid state switch that regulates the heater bed power.

I bought a 28A solid state switch a while ago but have not have the time to buy a dedicated power supply for it yet. I was planning to use a 250W computer PSU as the power source but It didn't work as expected due to the over current safety kicking in every time I power the heat bed.

You could use the IRF3808 transistor but you should not tap power from the controller board and instead hook the power supply directly to the transistor source lead. Also, separating the transistor from the board and having it on its own heat sink will be a safer choice.

really? I'm gonna ditch the mosfet fixing going to go with relay method I think I bought a solid state relay for my filament extruder project need to check if it DC or AC 

Everyone is busy with CNY I guess.

Just arrived   


what should i print   

ABS and PLA is SGD38.00

Flexi is bit expensive, SGD90.00