you need a drill press and a vice like this one  unless you really have a steady hand just clamp it and drill

Tested the -ve terminal of 5A to both the hot end terminal, both measure 12v...when turned on the hot end, one of the hot end terminal measure 0v. Possibly faulty hot end?

I guess you got yourself a faulty thermistor in the J-head hotend.

I had that happen to me before and it was really funny. The hotend was working like normal for a few months and suddenly one day I sense a funny plastic smell and the next thing I realize was the heating block melting the PEEK barrel and fell off the barrel. I was lucky to have noticed it and identified the problem as faulty thermistor because the host could not reach the set point temperature and continuously heat the hotend till it fell off.

You might want to get a replacement for that.

you can move up the extruder mounting higher to reclaim the space. What kind of printer and extruder setup is it?

P/S: if you have the original extruder STL file i can edit it for you to move the mounting holes. (there is a limit of how high you can go before the weight of the extruder becomes a huge enough lever that the mounting would bend)

Finally back from an event and I am surprise to see some on going activity here.

About your broken barrel (or was it melted barrel?), you can use a spanner on the j-head heating block and a large pliers on the barrel to dismantle them.

I have a Folger Tech Cloner kit with heater bed and dual extruders still in the box unopen since arrival. The parts and design is similar to the wanhao duplicator 4 but the frame is laminated MDF, you might want to source the acrylic or steel frame locally.

Earlier I bought and built the oak wood frame version and the parts came complete with a lot of extra vitamins. I manage to build and print in PETG with it but I did not use all the parts because some of the oak frame were warped. The MDF frame should not have any warpage issue and it only occurs for natural wood boards.

If you like you can PM me for the price.

Doing fine here but business sure slowed down a lot this year. Doing other ventures now but still keeping 3D printing alive.

Coincidentally I just ordered one SLA 3D printer from AliExpress.

Basically not much to learn except to keep the resin sealed from lights and the liquid resin would stink up the entire room.

Same here!

I got the SLA from Anycube. I can't comment about their build quality  just yet because I just placed an order and now waiting for delivery.

I recommend you get the one with the aluminium joints instead of 3D printing the joints. Nowadays prices for 3D printers and spare parts have dropped by a lot. You probably have to replace the lubricant and clean out the gunk on the rods and bearings before using if you do plan to revive it.

Yup, the Anycube Photon. It is a good price for an entry level SLA with that build volume (155x115x65 mm) and sheet metal casing. Impressed by the spec but I don't know how it would perform once I get mine.

I will drop a short review here once I played with it

I got bits and pieces of parts from a Prusa i3 I bought off a long time ago. I have to see whats left of it. I normally just order the parts from China because everywhere else is the same  .

I notice you are into figurines and stuff. You should get the DLP/SLA instead of the FDM ones. So far printing small and highly detailed figurines have been a pain for me using my FDM. I mean I can print small figurines at 50 microns layer resolution but I am never satisfied with the final surface detail.

Lol, would be great if there is a community for 3D printing here so we can gather IRL and discuss some day.