Since your concern is regarding the controller board then you should look out for the ramps 1.4 controller board since its a standard controller for most reprap out there. A lot of discussion and documentation on it. Fine printing depends on the stepper controller module, the stepper motor quality, GT2 timing belt, a good firmware, and the structural rigidity of the printer frame. Also experience in tweaking the printer for ultra fine prints is a must, you can't expect a 3D printer to work out of the box all the time.

My advice is if you want a reliable printer that can produce fine prints then I would recommend one in metal frame and not made with wood or acrylic. Also fine and sharp brass nozzle for the hotend will do well for fine prints.

You can try getting one of those makerbot clones from china. I wouldn't mind buying one if the frame is aluminium and use familiar reprap controller and firmware. Maybe you might want to replace the hotend and thermistor with a better one.

Hi thr, i just finish assemble 3d printer chduino prusa i3 buying kits from china but having maxtemp error prob.
i just wanna letgo fast n cheap rm1300 plus 3 roll of new pla...
if interested pls pm me

give up already

This post has been edited by kevin410: Sep 25 2015, 04:25 PM

Need help with repairs or want to sell off? Prusa i3 got pics?

Thanks for your advise.

I cannot find the cheap 3d printer with the ramps 1.4 controller board. All come with prusa i3. Is this OK? Is the FW good and wide support ? What is the different ?

My idea is to get the cheap 1 with a good board. Doesn't matter what frame. Than from there, I upgrade and modify the mechanism, motor, etc to a better 1.

i want to sell out if can

This post has been edited by kevin410: Sep 27 2015, 08:57 PM


Attached thumbnail(s)

Few days only finish read all the post here...interest in 3d printer, plan to buy once i get my bonus...want to ask if budget enough to buy part to build myself or just buy a ready to use one?

You might want to refer to:
www.reprap.org/wiki/RepRap
www.reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3
www.reprap.org/wiki/The_incomplete_RepRap_Prusa_Mendel_beginner%27s_guide
reprap.org/wiki/List_of_Firmware
www.3ders.org/pricecompare/3dprinters/

Prusa i3 is currently the mainstream low cost and easy to build RepRap at this moment. You can find other similar Prusa from other suppliers but do note that each suppliers may have different components and parts yet still looks like a Prusa i3. That is what open source 3D printers, RepRap, are like when different components are available as alternatives. Some vendors may sell the frame and drive mechanisms separate from the electronics so you have the opion of choosing and customising the printer. Example, you can reuse your PSU from your old computer as the power supply to run the RepRap or even print a custom drive carriage for your hotend and auto bed levelling probe.

So in short its a matter of planning out what you require, say find every component and part which takes time and may be cost effective, buy the kit and spend time on assembly and fine tuning, or even buy the ready built set and just spend time configuring and setting up a print.

Anyway your question, you can buy the cheapest, most cheapo of 3D printers, tear out the electronics and replace it with an original Arduino Mega or china clone Iduino and attach it with a Ramps 1.4 control board. As for firmware, you might want to try Repetier-firmware, a fork/modified Sprinter firmware. The website is www.repetier.com and they provide the software for controlling and sending print jobs to the printer.

BTW, though I do 3D printing service in my signature but I also do repairs, maintenance, and 3D design as well.


Good to know more are interested in RepRap and 1+ for reading everything.

It depends on whether you have the time to spend on the full experience of from A to Z, hunting for everything to fine tuning, or get the kit to save time on hunting for parts, or get the ready built set and just spend time configuring the printer to print reliably.

Here is a challenge, buy off kevin410 Prusa i3 and try repairing it.

Still haven't got my fund yet, can't buy at the moment... btw, flashforge is a good printer or i can build a similar with the cost? I saw it 4.4k in lazana...

I'm new to 3d printing and know pretty much nothing about it. Anyone can recommend a decent printer for budget below 2000?

There are local sellers that sells RepRap kits priced below RM 2000. blomker posted in this topic too and you can search for him here.

Weee, repaired my 3D printer. barrel snapped in half gave an excuse to go and buy a small drill press tho broke 3 drill bits in the process as well

Care to share some pic of the hand made extruder?

its already installed :/ i'll post something when i take it apart again. im cleaning it for now to remove any metal shavings left inside. Rebored a nozzle to 1.0mm and printing some test cubes with it. if there's any metal shavings left, it'll flow with the plastic hopefully.

Suprisingly, you can print REALLY fast with 1.0mm nozzle Not pretty tho.

Do you have any experience with all metal hotends? I drilled the barrel to accept a PTFE sleeving but if i could use the barrel without a sleeving, i can up the temp. but i heard PLA tends to stick to the metal wall.

Hi, All

This is a good article to share here:

Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide by Simplify3D

https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

"This guide is a great place to start if you are trying to improve the quality of your 3D printed parts. We have compiled an extensive list of the most common 3D printing issues along with the software settings that you can use to solve them. Best of all, the guide uses a large collection of real-world images to make each issue easy to identify when examining your own 3D printed parts. So let’s get started!"

Looking for an urgent Hotend replacement. Preferably groove mount compatible

Second hand j-head hotend ok?

that may work. how old is it?

One year used, condition looks about 6/10.

That's quite old actually. Im looking for a reliable Hotend. Do you have a suggestion? I've used china J-Head, blomker's hotend and couple of china counterfeit. they work for awhile, but dont last.