Have not tried that but I have no plans to try it out. Maybe I will try it someday but I will be saving the proximity sensor for my next printer build.

Will take note of that

The supplier 3D printer was probably not calibrated properly. Getting oval circles can be quite annoying at times.

I heard WD 40 can cause more problems to your bearing because its removes rust but if left as it is, the rust particles gets clogged up in your bearings and cause long tern wear. My recommendation is to wipe off any remaining WD40 and add proper lubricant like lithium/white grease to the bearings.

About Igus, so far I have not received any samples from them and its been about a week ago since my sample request.

My advice when getting aluminum plate is to get them as thick as 6 mm or more because aluminum sheets that are too thin tend to bent at certain areas. I tried aluminum foil and aluminum sheet of about 0.5 mm and glue them to thick acrylic plates but the leveling was horrible because some parts were uneven.

Also if you use glass as a heating surface, you might have a problem with proximity sensors because they only trigger at a height of 4 mm from the surface of aluminum. So your glass sheets has to be thinner than 3 mm for it to work, the 1 mm gap is a safe margin preventing the sensor from hitting your print.

Hello and welcome to the reprap forum where all 3D printer enthusiast are discussing about 3D printers. We also double as 3D printer support group in Malaysia as well...

Buying a 3D printer is one way to go if you have the cash to splurge because most printers that are available in the market are at least RM 1.5k and above, including shipping and taxes.

Here is a good link on price comparison of 3D printers and repraps alike that are available: http://www.3ders.org/pricecompare/3dprinters/

I suggested 6 mm because I would assume there will be some warping when the aluminum sheet heats up, especially for anything less than 3 mm. My Printrbot heated aluminum bed upgrade came with a 6 mm aluminum bed and I have yet to test for warping. The stock non-heated bed is a 4 mm aluminium bed and auto leveling on it seems good enough for PLA prints.

Nice catapult picture too

This post has been edited by altan: Dec 18 2014, 03:56 PM

True, without heater bed then you can same cost from electricity. Also you don't need heater bed for any PLA blends like Ninjaflex since I manage to print with the stock bed.

Yeah, you might want to bump up the amp by one or two more because as for my Printrbot, it could barely operate at 6A 12V china laptop power supply and its can sort of black out (correct term brown out) whenever it over heats on a hot day.

What matter most is that the technology is available right now to everyone and anyone can invest their time and money into it as a hobby or as a business opportunity.

Regarding firmware of a 3D printer, it depends on the preference of an individual and how compatible the firmware is to a controller board. A lot of start up 3D printing companies I have personally met rather develop their own propriety boards and firmware rather than sourcing it from larger companies due to licensing issues. Also, most of them have different designs and or features distinct from main stream printers, so a custom firmware is in need. Besides, no one will know which firmware will be loaded into a control board whether it may be open source or closed source. Also, its hard to differentiate the performance of a printer based on firmware because the hardware will still be the limitation.

I can't recommend a local supplier because I never tried their filament.

You can try Qwikfab in Singapore and be sure to mention them about me. Who knows you might get a discount.

I have seen their ABS prints and they were great.

Instead of buy or build, you can always get someone here with a printer to print your stuff.

But back to wnyeen question, frankly its not easy to use a 3D printer since not all of them are out-of-the-box ready and you might have to splurge on a bit of cash to get a more or less a decent one.

Try checking out this 3D hubs printer guide: http://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide

Printers for beginners aren't here yet but printers for a person who don't mind fixing it up from time to time are already out there.

I wonder what other uses those springs can do...


Currently out of office but I did bring my printer back to my hometown. You can check out my signature below for the pricing but my printer will be busy until this weekend.

You can actually try out flexible filaments with your mendel and delta. I am printing flexible stuff without a heater bed but do note that the flexible material is about 2 to 3 times pricier than PLA.

+1 marauderz

What you say is true, back then at first when I got my hands on a reprap 3D printer, I thought it reach a level in par with normal paper printers but after working with a reprap for a few weeks, I notice problems after problems of debugging hardware issues, software limitation and it was really time consuming. I was lucky to have tried out 3D printers at first because I didn't have to spend a few thousands of ringgit to experience these issues. Anwyay, it was a good learning experience for my current 3D printer and so far happily designing and printing my own stuff now.

wnyeen I am not trying to sound discouraging but this is something anyone wanting to go into have to know before considering for a 3D printer. I think as a beginner going into this as a hobby, there isn't a printer that is "easy" to use yet and the best choice is to get a printer you can afford at less than RM 2K but willing to spend another 300 to 500 for tools, supplies and spare parts. Also, be sure to put in some of your free time in tinkering with the printer.

Hey sure, send me a PM and let me know which parts needs to be printed. You can also COD with me since I am back in PJ. My printer will be available after this weekend because I am printing some stuff for an event.

You can get quality filaments from Qwikfab, they are based in Singapore and considering the MYR to SGD exchange rate, its about RM 100 tops. Be sure to mention them my name, and maybe you could get a discount.

Thanks for the compliment cha.968 but I'm sure the others and including yourself are sifus in 3D printing as well.

If you check blomker's kossel mini page at http://blomker.com/index.php?id_category=1...roller=category, its only RM 11 cheaper than the indiegogo site, though its not assembled.

Its good that more Malaysians are picking up an interest owning a 3D printer as they have mentioned in their campaign but taking it into a crowd funding side is pure and instant disaster. Just because they stated they "have successfully build a Kossel Mini" doesn't mean they can sell and deliver it well enough while sustaining their business.

They seem a bit too ambitious with their idea of making and selling something that is available for sale locally. I am not saying we should not support them but analyzing the key indications shows that their campaign is bound to fail right from the start.

I worked out some ball park calculations/analysis and it seems from their current position they will need at least 54 supporters for their campaign. Based on estimations for 54 sets, I don't think they can deliver the product in less than 6 months because there will be time used for purchasing (cutting machinery, vitamins, non-printable stuff, electronic/thermal/electromechanical components), cutting of parts (rods, threads, frame, etc), assembly, firmware programming, testing, and packaging. Also don't forget injection molding or the cheapest but unreliable way, printing the printable bits.

Say we take KLKS example "5 nights to assemble and tune" one Prusa by a single person. Imagine 3 person production team building 3 per week, that will take about 4 to 5 months excluding the other production consideration as stated above.

Also the amount they are planning to raise (USD 20k) and the "low" price tag are too low for the success of their plans. To summarize in 4 words: over ambitious, under confident.

Anyway, even if I am do build and sell printers, I wouldn't use crowdfunding as my main source of income. If someone thinks my printer is good, they can show their support through my printing service and that's more than encouragement for me.

Though its late, but Merry Xmas and Happy New Year!

Seems like a good recommendation.

Also do ask on my behalf for nema 14 stepper and also ball screw with 0.5 or 1 mm pitch. Thanks

Secret secret

Lol, did not plan on making it DIY kit friendly

This happen to someone who owns a Kossel before and its kind of my fault because I ask him why the delta printers work the way they do and he was unable to answer that

Anyway aside that, Delta printers are more space efficient compared to Cartesian printers but the trade off is it can get unstable with the tall design which causes the frame to wobble during prints. So to circumvent that problem, you may need to use a much heavier base and solid frame.

For cartesan printers, its more rigid from the cuboid/cubic frame but it takes up a heck lot more space on your desk.

In my opinion as a beginner, a prusa should be a good start because it represents minimalistically the necessary components needed to build a printer.

No response. You can try your luck at Igus, these guys don't care for small orders or even give samples.


It prints fast only if it has Bowden extruder, I doubt it can do good prints when a heavy stepper motor is attached to the carriage.

Agree with the uniqueness, it has that SciFi sort of look

Good luck with your build!

One suggestion, start a 3D printing service with your Prusa

Sorry to hear about the flood affecting your family. Hope the weather improves as soon as possible.

Looks like a lego kinect set...