Joined: Sep 2009
From: Either PJ, JB or SG but not at your house!
QUOTE(DarkTenno @ Dec 12 2014, 03:05 PM)
I think the concept is still the same as dual extrusion as it still using 2 extruder just 1 hotend, even in slic3r it see extruder not hotend , what nozzle size you use for the 0.06 print? and with your UP? average printing speed?
I have try to calibrate my kossel to print as low as 0.06 consider it as a challenge for myself
Yes but there the hotend temp 0 and 1 which needs some setup... Anyway lets just wait till the reviews come out.
I am not using an UP printer, its a Printrbot and that's the only printer I have. I can print with a 0.4mm or 0.3 mm nozzle at 60 mm/sec.
QUOTE(feiming @ Dec 12 2014, 03:07 PM)
How much are u budgeting the hotend to cost? Because building is fun,just like Lego.
Prototype wise, about RM 200 at first but for production, say RM50 each? I can design the hotend using a CAD software myself but someone has to be able to make the mold and cast it out in aluminium, hence why I started learning metal casting.
Yup, building is fun and about lego, you could try building a reprap printer out of a lego mindstorm set... Just saying
Joined: Sep 2009
From: Either PJ, JB or SG but not at your house!
QUOTE(DarkTenno @ Dec 12 2014, 03:28 PM)
oh ok so you printing 0.06mm at 60m/s with 0.4 nozzle? that quite fast , most of the alu heatsink usually made with lathe machine not sure if they used metal casting for it
Yes, typically a small drill press, tap and die set, hack saw, and a dremel is the most basic stuff for making the most simplest hotends out there. Just get alu rods and steel threaded rods and start hacking away.
Metal casting is good for complex geometries that lathes can't do but production wise is slow and expensive because of the mold making process.
Lathes are great but the cheapest I found was RM 1.5k and its at my neighborhood hardware shop. It doesn't come with a motor too.
I have used a lathe before and its not easy to learn to make clean clear cuts, because of the alignment issues and the type of cutting bit to use.
Joined: Sep 2009
From: Either PJ, JB or SG but not at your house!
QUOTE(izzudinhafiz @ Dec 12 2014, 07:49 PM)
wow at 60mm/sec? My newly built prusa is maxing at 35. If the print is large i can go 45, but any small strutctures i need to go slow. like say a 5mm x 5mm cube structure.
Yup, that what I always set for my slicer settings and from ball park calculation, I seem to be extruding at 12 grams per hour at 0.2mm which to me is consider decent enough. At first I thought 60 mm/s was considered slow because other printers like the Ultimaker or Makerbot are running close to 100 mm/s. One way to make your print go faster is to first reduce the carriage weight, say using smaller hotends and motor and then later go for a bowden extruder. I have tried printing with a make shift bowden extruder setup at 100 mm/s on an experimental printer. 100 mm/s prints are really fascinating to watch.
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Also if you are using CURA, you can set the minimum layer time which will automatically slow down the print for small areas. Its the backlashing on the carriage that causes the frames to shake about when its is printing at fast and short strokes. Slic3r has a setting for this case where you can auto slow down the small area prints. Besides, the printer I am am using is designed and made entirely from steel and aluminium so the frame is really sturdy and doesn't sag or warp in anyway during prints.
Regarding bowden extruder, in case anyone wants to tryout the upgrade, I can provide some parts for the bowden kit.
This post has been edited by altan: Dec 12 2014, 08:42 PM
Joined: Sep 2009
From: Either PJ, JB or SG but not at your house!
QUOTE(izzudinhafiz @ Dec 12 2014, 09:23 PM)
Wow! That's prolly printed with ninjaflex tho. PLA or abs woudlnt work i assume.
Btw altan, i cant enable cooling fan during prints or else my hotend temperature drops like crazy that the heater cant sustain. does it have something to do with the dfault PID settings?
Here's just a picture of my prusa
[attachmentid=4256762]
Ignore the messy table. Been tinkering with the printer for 2 days. Although it is really fun!
Edit: Side note, how do you fix lowyat forum from rotating the photo -.-
You could set the fan speed to a slow fixed value like M106 S64 or in CURA setup the fan to gradually increase during the first 5 layers so your hot end won't drop dramatically. Usually the PID settings is difficult to set and it is very hotend specific. You could try messing around the PID settings but it will take a lot of time to workout the values.
Your Prusa is really nice looks well built and that aluminum frame is thick... I also notice you are missing one z-axis coupler
Joined: Sep 2009
From: Either PJ, JB or SG but not at your house!
QUOTE(izzudinhafiz @ Dec 12 2014, 09:57 PM)
hmm. been looking at auto tune, but even autotune PID wouldnt get the hotend up to temperature. it just wouldnt ever reach 200 Celsius. A recommended fix on the web is to insulate the hotend and blow the fan only at the PEEK insulator. Im designing a fan shroud now in Solidworks. we'll see how that goes.
Of course the Prusa is nice! It has neon yellow 3d printed parts made from sifu Altan The missing Z coupler is from mixed up eBay shipment, ordered two but received one. Still waiting on it to get here.
the alu is 6mm thick. wasnt too expensive. cutting the frame and the bed cost me 150 ringgit including materials. So i dont get why people still opt for wooden version. Oh a side note to get alu cut cheaper. unless you need to save weight, dont bother making holes in the aluminium to "save material". They charge you with the aluminium blank and cutting time. so if you have less holes, there's less cutting time.
On another side note, I just tried 70mm/s printing on the prusa with VERY low acceleration setting from Marlin's default 9000 mm/sec^2. Its now down to 2000. XY jerk cut down to 10 compared to 30. so the print is looking fine BUT its fast! It is still printing now, I have a video here of it. But once it's done i'll add a photo of the final product. Its a cylindrical shaft for my filament spool holder. I'll try cube stuffs later.
Of course currently without a spool holder, so im stuck with this and turning it by hand every few minutes
[attachmentid=4256825]
I just notice your hotend isn't wrapped in Kapton tape. If you have Kapton tape give the nozzle end of the hotend a few layer of the tape, helps keep the heat in.
Neon Yellow is meant to stand out and thanks for the compliment.
Thanks for the tip on the alu cutting, now I need to find a nearby shop for alu sheets.
QUOTE(DarkTenno @ Dec 12 2014, 10:01 PM)
izzudinhafiz
my nozzle is 0.4mm your desk is tidier than mine, if you see mine I can't even find my screw driver on it , alu plate is cheap you can it at sg besi around rm20 for 210x210
this is my marlin config
CODE
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT Â {80,80,4000,92} Â // Narrow Channel #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE Â Â Â Â Â {500, 500, 2, 50} Â Â // (mm/sec) #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION Â Â Â {200,200,50,300} Â Â // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.
#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION Â Â Â Â Â 3000 Â Â // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves #define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION Â 3000 Â // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for retracts
altan
does not seem to see any of those effect maybe not yet, the setting was actually for my mendelmax, I did a test print on a calibration part and it came out great so I just stick with it
Care to share the shop name that sells alu sheets at that price? I am thinking of getting some for another project.
Same for me, I played around with the setting based on a calibration cube and just stuck with since then.
they're in damansara. just send an SVG file by email, you'll get a quote in a few days. pay online and you can either pick it up or add shipping charges.
I am not too sure where you can get Kapton tape in Malaysia but I do know it is sold at electronic shops. Try jalan pasar in KL, maybe one of the shop sells it. I have some extra 15mm x 100ft Kapton tape with me and I could sell it to you for RM 15 if you want. I bought the tape from china through ebay.
QUOTE(DarkTenno @ Dec 12 2014, 10:19 PM)
it a alu hardware shop, somewhere in chan sow lin, I get the address if I can find the receipt, it will cut the size when you oder so if you requested for 200x200 it will cut exact size, last time I boght 150x150 5mm alu plate cost me RM17 if I remember correctly
lelong got ppl selling kapton tape
I will try to find the shop, since I roughly know my way around chan sow lin.
Joined: Sep 2009
From: Either PJ, JB or SG but not at your house!
QUOTE(DarkTenno @ Dec 13 2014, 10:05 AM)
My result from overnight print total time 5 hours, some oddness with the part half of are shining but half of it have dull color weird temperature setting are the same through all print time
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[attachmentid=4257243]
[attachmentid=4257244]
[attachmentid=4257245]
[attachmentid=4257246]
QUOTE(KLKS @ Dec 13 2014, 11:58 AM)
could it be the quality of the filament?
KLKS is right, your supplier must have provided you with low quality filaments because the sudden color change can only be caused by joining two batches of filament. The filament maker probably didn't want to remelt the last bits and decided to cut corners by joining it with another batch of filament.
I notice that the filaments I bought vary in color and intensity slightly from reel to reel but consistency throughout the filament is always the same.
Joined: Sep 2009
From: Either PJ, JB or SG but not at your house!
QUOTE(cha.968 @ Dec 14 2014, 03:32 PM)
Am jeolous with your red colour Printrbot Simple Metal... but red colour no longer available now. When you bought it? Do you recommended to buy? And why?
Hi cha.968, yes the red printrbots are no longer for sale by the company and it was only availabe as a prerelease model. I bought it in April this year and I would recommend to anyone who don't mind paying a little bit more for a well made and reliable printer.
Reason for getting the printer, it was the price and built quality that attracted me towards this printer as well as the limited red color. Besides that, the company has been making printers for a long while and along that grew a large community around the printer.
Don't be jelly, my printer is available for everyone to 3D print. Now everyone can 3D print.
This post has been edited by altan: Dec 14 2014, 11:54 PM
Joined: Sep 2009
From: Either PJ, JB or SG but not at your house!
QUOTE(blomker @ Dec 14 2014, 07:43 PM)
It could be the temperature sensor giving some false reading bro. I have experienced this before but the problem disappeared after two times printing. I will send you a new temperature sensor together with PTFE lining for standby.
Btw, this is Blomker Industries custom made screw in temperature sensor. Ordered about 500pcs of this from the factory. It is 100K +/- 1% thermistor inserted in a brass screw (M3 thread) and sealed with high temperature epoxy. The wires are Teflon insulated to withstand the high temperature.
If anyone need a piece, will be happy to provide it free of charge. Just contact us.
If the thermistor is encased in a brass capsule then how do we attach it to the hot end while it doesn't come with a m3 hole to screw into?
QUOTE(DarkTenno @ Dec 14 2014, 09:57 PM)
blomker
Awsome! thanks
for the slicer setting I have not tune much on the support part , here what my teflon tubing definately need a new one OD around 3mm
Joined: Sep 2009
From: Either PJ, JB or SG but not at your house!
QUOTE(cha.968 @ Dec 15 2014, 06:30 AM)
Hi, altan. Thank you for your comments. As we are always looking for budget one, we also compare with the reliability, quality, ease of use and customer support too. Let moving towards your motto: "Now everyone can 3D print."
Yup, that is why I am trying to keep my printing service as affordable as possible without compromising service and quality.
QUOTE(DarkTenno @ Dec 15 2014, 12:12 PM)
for who ever need this, they sell various type of aluminum except extrusion, can request any size they will cut it on the spot, make your order and pay at the counter and proceed to the backside of the shop they will cut the stuff in front of you
LIAN GIAP & CO (HARDWARE) SDN BHD Lot 98, Jalan 4 off jalan Chan Sow Lin, 55200, Kuala Lumpur TEL: 03-9221 4604
last time I bought 2x 150x150x5 Alu plate only cost me RM13.50 tap the thermistor hole with M3 thread
Thanks for listing the address.
I still remember going somewhere around Jalan Pasar to a shop that sells Acrylic sheets and these guys do the same thing. I order and pay at the front then go to their workshop across and they cut the sheet in front of you. I wonder if the shop still exist because I couldn't find it afterwards. Besides, it was years apart since at that time.
Yeah, have to buy a M3 tap... Malas go out to find at hardware shop...
Printed new part for my kossel replacing the old one Having issues with the belt rubbing to the extrusion [attachmentid=4260691]
Nice prints I have been trying to find filament color that's as red as your prints or are my eyes playing tricks on me.
QUOTE(DarkTenno @ Dec 16 2014, 01:20 AM)
before you start buying make sure you can mount it on your printer x carriage, if we're me I just buy the hotend and print the extruder myself in your case ask someone to print one for you, are you going for direct drive or bowden? my delta using airstrip per bowden setup blomker direct drive bowden also nice as it used less part
You could still buy it and if it does not fit, then you can get someone to design and print the adapter for the X carriage.
I wouldn't recommend Bowden drive for beginners just yet because its much more complicated than it seems and you are limited to stiff filaments only. Direct drive are still the best as the hotend temp does not need to be very high to melt and extrude the filament. Also, you can use flexible filaments when you are more comfortable and familiar with 3D printing.
You can also just purchase the same J-Head china clone from me for RM 150, comes with NTC 100k thermistor, 40 W heater cartridge, has a nozzle size of 0.3 mm, and a good amount of kapton tape to hold down the wiring and insulate the heater block. I would recommend another hotend called the JollyGrimReaper (JGR) All-metal Alu hotend with 0.4 mm nozzle. Its the best hotend I have used so far but it is costly at a price of RM 230 with the same heater cartridge and thermistor spec as above.
I can print the Wade extruder parts since I have printed one set for @izzudinhafiz 3D printer before. Only thing I can't provide is the stepper motor and extruder gear which I don't have excess stock for sale.
This post has been edited by altan: Dec 16 2014, 02:23 AM
Joined: Sep 2009
From: Either PJ, JB or SG but not at your house!
QUOTE(feiming @ Dec 16 2014, 08:27 AM)
I'm prefer wade.lesser parts I think the simplist part,the spring is the most difficult to source locally. I thought of building it,as I already have the 3d parts that's come together with the frame parts.my biggest worry is finding the vitamins like spring and hobbed bolt.
Anyway,you guy motivate me to build it.
Does your jhead hotend nozzle removable?
If you like even less parts, don't use wade, just have the stepper motor directly attach to the hobbed gear and have an idler to hold down the filament. I have a box of assorted springs and I use them for making extruders.
Thanks for the compliments, everyone here is contributing to the topic.
My 3D printer comes with its own hotend which uses a ceramic heat break and at first doesn't look like it can change to another hotend. I then designed my own adapter to fit with the J-Head end and thats when I am able to interchange it with other nozzles. I think your Wallace has several wade extruders with different hotend adapters available on thingiverse http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18379/#files
QUOTE(feiming @ Dec 16 2014, 09:12 AM)
I have.in fact it very cheap.about 58usd on DX.com.I saw YouTube video show its very noisy.
Are u using them?
The noise comes form the 40 mm fan, usually it is not noisy like running a pc but after long time when the bearing wears out, it gets noisy over a long time.
QUOTE(DarkTenno @ Dec 16 2014, 10:08 AM)
altan actual color flaming red, it PLA if ABS probably hard to get that color
Yeah, trying to find the red that is similar with my 3D printer is near impossible...
The color for ABS and PLA differs a lot even if its the same in name, ABS seem to always be dull and matte but PLA seems bright and glossy all the time.
Joined: Sep 2009
From: Either PJ, JB or SG but not at your house!
QUOTE(feiming @ Dec 16 2014, 11:43 AM)
damn, i didn't notice that.I need to go back and check on.
altan, I think i'll buy some spring from you when we meet. I'll get back to you on the hotend. Let me go back and confirm it.
Anyone tried making hobbed bolt with just hacksaw?
Sure, then I will be bringing my box of assorted springs along for the trade.
Have never made a hobbed gear before but I think the best way is to get a dremel and disc cutting wheel to make a hobbed bolt. Tried to make one from plastic gears but then I realize plastic on plastic will slip and is not hard enough to eat into the filament. DarkTenno mention something of a lathe and workshop.
I will also try making one out of metal gears, if I can find one of the right size.
This post has been edited by altan: Dec 16 2014, 04:42 PM
I just order some proximity sensor, same type as printrbot getting to check my bed ever now and them is a hassles as I dont have pc connected using LCD is a pain
LOL, a hobbit maker...
Make sure when you order the proximity sensor they are the Normally-Closed (NC) types because I accidentally bought a set of Normally-Open (NO) types without noticing.
Its a waste and I can only use them for my other projects.
Same goes for PTC and NTC thermistors, they both sense heat but resistance value changes in different direction.
QUOTE(feiming @ Dec 17 2014, 11:35 AM)
Is that the hotend your selling? I remember i measure my depth with my finger is about 15 to 16mm but i probably have to measure it correctly tonight.
Yup, still trying to sell the set...
This post has been edited by altan: Dec 17 2014, 01:46 PM
Dec 12 2014, 03:20 PM
, what nozzle size you use for the 0.06 print? and with your UP? average printing speed? 
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looks well built and that aluminum frame is thick... I also notice you are missing one z-axis coupler 
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