I just to advised if possible do not use ABS water pipe.Instead please use normal PVC pipe. For PVC pipe please ensure that your contractor using Class 6 and 7.The ABS pipe is not resistance to acid, very easily 'makan' by acid.

and... where does this "Acid" come from ?

your using ABS piping for potable water or industrial use ?

Just bear in mind, PVC pipe joints are not capable to handling internal water pump, which many are installing these days. The pipe isn't the problem, the joints are.

Just bear in mind, PVC pipe joints are not capable to handling internal water pump, which many are installing these days. The pipe isn't the problem, the joints are.

The Joints are as thick as grade 6. Is fine.

Just bear in mind, PVC pipe joints are not capable to handling internal water pump, which many are installing these days. The pipe isn't the problem, the joints are.

Let me clarify, the thickness of Class 6 PVC Pipes is not the issue. The joints which uses glue are the culprit for leakage. Glue type joints are not capable of handling high capacity water pump. The failure may not be instant. It may occur few months or years down the road. But hacking and replacing leak pipes will be a headache, especially if it is in the toilet where the wall are all tiles.

SO what is the best for main pipe? SPecially underground from the water meter to the kicthen?

I thought PVC has no problem with UV or the sun but not heat. Heated it melt like icecream. Infact PVC is the best plastic against UV.

ABS plastic will melt with sulpheric acid but ABS is very strong and unlike PVC heat is not a problem but of course you dont use it for hot water piping. ABS can take load and use underground and withstand weight and pressure. ABS is the pipe you must not expose to sun/VU it will disintegrate.

If you need a strong pressure cold pipe use ABS for pump in the wall for example. PVC class 7 will reduce volume flow due to its very thick layer. You dont use stainless steel or copper pipe for cold pipe it is very expensive, not only the pipe the joints as well many times over the price of PVC and ABS.

For meter main going underground to house use poly as it is flexible you can bend and turn around it and there is no joint. For underground never have any joints there. It should be one long pipe from meter to the other end surface up. You will never have problem leaking underground. From there you either use PVC or ABS for internal distribution. If you use PVC or ABS for underground you got to connect and when there are joints there are future troble. Same goes for S steel and copper not only it is expensive you cannot have long pipe but need to join. Joining is always no no no for areas you cannot access.

Use stainless steel joints at the end pipe (example) from wall outlets to connect to your taps, toilets, basin, etc. Becasue these "heads"at one time or other you need to replace the taps and to unscrew or rescrew on PVC and ASB you could use too much force and break the thread.

Copper is easy to install and connect and to disconnect and yet cheaper than stainless steel for hot water supply. But never step on it or bend it walking over. It shouild be on roof top or wall.

from experience and discussion with plumber sifu..PVC in long run that exposed to sunlight sometime it degrade and sometime you see the color a bit 'turun'/discolor..but with class 6&7 no problem...

for me...after what i had experience and discussion with plumber sifu...will never never use ABS for water pipe....

as long as u put under ground whether is its PVC or poly..there is a possibility to 'pecah' or leak..especially if accidentally dig and break the pipe..

i also used stainless steel connector to connect to 'kepala' pipe..no rust..

If you need a strong pressure cold pipe use ABS for pump in the wall for example. PVC class 7 will reduce volume flow due to its very thick layer. You dont use stainless steel or copper pipe for cold pipe it is very expensive, not only the pipe the joints as well many times over the price of PVC and Abs

House no need class 7 lar, pvc class e = pn15; can stand 15 bar. household with pressure booster pump normally 40psi=3bar only

I thought PVC has no problem with UV or the sun but not heat. Heated it melt like icecream. Infact PVC is the best plastic against UV.

ABS plastic will melt with sulpheric acid but ABS is very strong and unlike PVC heat is not a problem but of course you dont use it for hot water piping. ABS can take load and use underground and withstand weight and pressure. ABS is the pipe you must not expose to sun/VU it will disintegrate.

If you need a strong pressure cold pipe use ABS for pump in the wall for example. PVC class 7 will reduce volume flow due to its very thick layer. You dont use stainless steel or copper pipe for cold pipe it is very expensive, not only the pipe the joints as well many times over the price of PVC and ABS.

For meter main going underground to house use poly as it is flexible you can bend and turn around it and there is no joint. For underground never have any joints there. It should be one long pipe from meter to the other end surface up. You will never have problem leaking underground. From there you either use PVC or ABS for internal distribution. If you use PVC or ABS for underground you got to connect and when there are joints there are future troble. Same goes for S steel and copper not only it is expensive you cannot have long pipe but need to join. Joining is always no no no for areas you cannot access.

Use stainless steel joints at the end pipe (example) from wall outlets to connect to your taps, toilets, basin, etc. Becasue these "heads"at one time or other you need to replace the taps and to unscrew or rescrew on PVC and ASB you could use too much force and break the thread.

Copper is easy to install and connect and to disconnect and yet cheaper than stainless steel for hot water supply. But never step on it or bend it walking over. It shouild be on roof top or wall.

Seem like the best for the money is poly (PB). Cheaper than stainless steel, flexible and screw type joint which is secure. But chemical and corrosion any problem for underground?

the best for underground from meter to kitchen is stainless steel but the price is high. Just use poly or PVC....for PVC not recommend direct expose to sunlight..but for PVC class 6 & 7 should be ok. poly and PVC easy to maintain if leak.

tips : you should run the water pipe along at the fence (under ground) so that when leak easy to maintain. do no run the water pipe under ground through your hall,room,etc...if leak..problem.
for info...my renovation 22x42 feet is at the back of my existing main house. existing house already had 2 water tank..i add another 2 water tank for my new reno house..that means my house got 4 water tanks.

another tips to share: for my kitchen i design sink got 2 pipes..one pipe from water tank , the other one direct from main. So when water shortage..i have no problem washing dishes......

poly pipe aka HDPE

The Advantages of HDPE are as follows:
Non-toxic
High impact strength
High resistance against corrosion-internal and external
High chemical resistance
Toughness
Flexibility
Ease of handling and laying
Can be made in long lengths
Excellent resistance against abrasion
No build-up of minerals on inside walls, i.e. crustations
Weather resistance
Expected life of 50 years or more
Smooth surface with low friction losses, i.e. hydraulic smooth C-value (Hazen Williams) = 150-165, K-value (Prandtl – Coalbrook) = 0.007mm
Very low water absorption
No stress cracking
Suitable for high temperature application (PP)

http://www.sansico.com.my/technical-data-m...-data-hdpe.html

You don't need 2 pipes for your kitchen inorder to backup incase no water. For my home, I install a bypass pipe from the water tank to the water supply pipe for the tank. In the middle of the pipe, instal a check vavle. Than install another check vavle at your meter outside.

When no water come, the water tank pressure is greater than supply. Plus the gravity, the water will flow back to the main pipe. And your whole house have water from your tank include your kitchen. Even you can wash your car. 

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Added on February 24, 2012, 9:39 am
Sound like a best choice to use this material for the main pipe. Second to stainless steal.

i know about your design..i purpose design my pipe like that cause i want my water tank moving water...i dont want water in my water tank statik for long time.

I have 2 water tank and all my bathroom is connect to the tank. So the water is always moving and no statik. While the kitchen and the garden is main.

then...it is very good..i just want to know..does your water pressure drop if you open both tap in the kitchen since they are coming from same main.

The kicthen only have 1 tap. Either the water from the main or tank if no water. If the water pressure is low, than I know there is no water from the main. Cause pressure from the tank sure is lower than the main.

When the main have water, it will shut off the vavle from the water tank. Cause the main pressure is greater than the tank. The whole auto system is using the pressure to run.

I have 2 water tank and all my bathroom is connect to the tank. So the water is always moving and no statik. While the kitchen and the garden is main.

you are good in plumbing.......actually i design 2 water taps in my kitchen, one from tank and the others from main so that i can use both taps and sink bowl at same time....that why i dont use the valve system.

got use pump ? else the water pressure low leh..

I have few yrs experience in plumbing.   Your system is not wrong. Just the cost is expensive to do.

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Added on February 24, 2012, 10:59 am
No pump. It is juat a backup when no water. Not everyday use. As long don't effect my daily routine.

want opinion from you all, should i change outside pipe before meter with stainless steel as Syabas did not replace unless the pipe rusted (my old pipe is using GI about 10 already) cause i plan to install rocket filter.

TQ

Your way of piping save one piping and the best is it is auto no need to shut off main supply to have tank supply. But dont you have problem with low pressure with one way valves and the valves after some time like 3 to 5 years get jammed and need replacement?

Your way of piping save one piping and the best is it is auto no need to shut off main supply to have tank supply. But dont you have problem with low pressure with one way valves and the valves after some time like 3 to 5 years get jammed and need replacement?

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Added on February 24, 2012, 1:07 pm
No problem changing "syabas" pipe outside before meter. Syabas shoiuld have replace all the GI pipes that cause dirty rusty water. When there is no water supply and when supply resume all the rust will be flush out into our house that is why we need whole house filter.

You should choose other than the sand rocket filter. Somehow the tiny sand will get into your house piping, into water tank, heater tank, blocking taps, etc. I replaced my sand filter with simply cheap acrylic filters for the whole house.

House no need class 7 lar, pvc class e = pn15; can stand 15 bar. household with pressure booster pump normally 40psi=3bar only

R u sure pn15=15 bar? dunno anything dun talk rubbish, k?

TQ..where to find the acrylic filter?...got pic?

Here is this filter cheap and easy to replace cartridge (the filter).

@stevie8 , nice suggestion ...

is it placed under the sun ? , does alge grow ? in the enclosure ?

no doubt the filter casing is cheap, but the 5 micron filter cartridge sold at jusco cost rm12/pc, and here in kl i need to change it every two week esle will face low pressure in the house, not really cheap in long run

@stevie8 , possible to snap and share a pic of your water filter installation ?

It is dark. will do tomorrow

For RM12 I can get 4 pcs 5 microns in Jalan Pasar, Tesco or Giant and pasar malam. You could have bought from a shop in jusco? who specialised in water filter. those people sell in small quantity and also buy in small quantity of course have to mark up high. You can buy from me if you want to half price rm6 a pc. I'll buy from tesco and re-sell you okie?

Didn't I show you the pix how to overcome low pressure? Look and study the pix ok?

Hahaha, you are one smart fello. Alge will grow only when I shut it off. Our tap water has chlorine and that kill any micro organism. I shut off one of it and no long algea grow. Just dont know how algea can get in??? And yes under the sun. This filter housing can take sun heat and UV.

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Added on February 24, 2012, 10:13 pm
For RM12 I can get 4 pcs 5 microns in Jalan Pasar, Tesco or Giant and pasar malam. You could have bought from a shop in jusco? who specialised in water filter. those people sell in small quantity and also buy in small quantity of course have to mark up high. You can buy from me if you want to half price rm6 a pc. I'll buy from tesco and re-sell you okie?

Didn't I show you the pix how to overcome low pressure? Look and study the pix ok?

I tried  those cheap 5micron cartridge from hardware shop, it useless lar.
u try to get one inside jusco, not small shop outside jusco. Brand ue-tec if i remember collectly then u compare the quality:)
Running  3 filter in parallel is a good solution  but not quite suitable  for condo/apartment lar.
And i use ss rocket type filter now since i move to my current house, no need the hassle to change the cartridge

I m using this kind filter case but not the same filter material as your 1. The filter you using is something like rough sand surface. I use before and not that effective in filtering rust brown water. And very fast clog.

I change to those string line type which have better filtering. And have better flow .

I m using this kind filter case but not the same filter material as your 1. The filter you using is something like rough sand surface. I use before and not that effective in filtering rust brown water. And very fast clog.

I change to those string line type which have better filtering. And have better flow .

You are right "rough face" but that is 10 micron type. Not good. I also tried the string line type, yes it is better last longer, not easily clogged but still it is 10 microns. When clogging and pressure is a problem use more in parallel. In my areas there are ppl using only one at the meter because we have no pressure and flow problem.

1 general filter at the meter side enough for me. The string line type is good enough and I change it every month.

Than in the kitchen below the sink, have another charcoal filter to clear up the water and neutralize any smell. This change every 3 month.

Hai ya what same like me la? I use the charcoal for my drinking water filter. RM10 only a piece. It also absorbs chlorine and chemicals. You will know it is time to change when the water smell chlorine but I change it early. Cheap ma. In fact it can last a year according to its recommended volume. This are activated carbon block make from coconut shells. The best activated carbon as recommended and widely use in US for water purification use together with RO. In fact WHO recommended it to be save to drink once water passed the activated carbon filter.

@stevie8 , possible to snap and share a pic of your water filter installation ?

Im using poly from main to tank and abs from tank to toilets. Since poly fittings is damn huge and you wont have proper way to conceal poly fittings inside the wall ...

Hi Jin,

We are out of topic. Anyway a promise is a promise, see pix below
click pix 1 to see waterflow direction on the pix


From the pix you can see there suppose to have 3 filters but I cut off one. 2 is enough. I also have a pressure meter installed to check water pressure how much it drop when turned on taps in the house. usually drop less than 10psi from 40 to 35 or from 60 to 55.

The filter is 3/4 inch pipe female, to connect it to the flexible hose I use a reducer to 1/2 inch male. The reason I use this type of stainless steel flexible hose is because the diameter is as big as the copper tube and will have better flow if I were to use the normal cheaper flexible hose. Look at the pix below and compare.

@stevie8 , thanks

back to the ABS piping.. euratech piping says usually ABS pipe is used for chemicals and etc eg acids and all

@tomjason , your abs pipe is what rating or specifications one ?

@stevie8 , thanks

back to the ABS piping.. euratech piping says usually ABS pipe is used for chemicals and etc eg acids and all

@tomjason , your abs pipe is what rating or specifications one ?

Go buy one foot ABS pipe and one ABS socket joint and buy one bottle acid from hardware shop. Pour the concentrated acid onto them and see if it melt. Why buy 2? What is the point of having ABS pipe that is acid resistance and yet the joints are not. So be awared.

guys, i'm going to make some DIY work on my house...planning to buy a PN15, class E, 50mm pipe..i know it comes in 6 meters long, what is the current market price for the pipe?

guys, i'm going to make some DIY work on my house...planning to buy a PN15, class E, 50mm pipe..i know it comes in 6 meters long, what is the current market price for the pipe?

ABS Pipe
ABS pipe and fittings are made from a thermoplastic resin called Acrylonitrile-Butadiene-Styrene (ABS for short).
ABS PIPING SYSTEMS: - Are easier and less expensive to install than metal piping; Feature superior flow due to smooth interiorfinish; Do not rot, rust, corrode or collect waste; Withstand earth loads and shipping (with properhandling); Resist mechanical damage, even at low temperatures; Perform at an operational temperature range of -40°F to 180°F; Are lightweight (one person can load and unload); Take less time to rough in than metal DWV materials.
ABS pipe and fittings were originally developed in the early 1950s for use in oil fields and the chemical industry. In 1959, John F. Long, a prominent Arizona builder, used ABS pipe in an experimental residence. Twenty-five years later, an independent research firm dug up and analyzed a section of the drain pipe. The result: no evidence of rot, rust or corrosion.

CPVC Pipe
CPVC Pipe - For Superior Corrosion Resistance in High Temperature Applications
Harvel CPVC pipe is produced from a specialty blend of Corzan® CPVC material with unique physical properties desirable for piping applications (i.e., improved impact resistance and good fire resistance capabilities).
The CPVC product line includes schedules 40 and 80 piping from 1/4" through 16" diameters. Harvel CPVC piping systems can handle more than three-fourths of the temperature/pressure requirements of today's typical process plants. CPVC pressure pipe has an upper working temperature limit of 200°F (93°C), or approximately 60°F (15°C) above that of Type I Grade I PVC. As with all thermoplastic piping systems, CPVC's ability to withstand pressure varies with pipe diameter, wall thickness, and temperature. For pressure piping applications it is recommended for temperatures as high as 200°F (93°C) when appropriate temperature de-rating factors are applied. As the pipe diameter and temperature increases, the pressure rating of the product decreases. For example, 1/2" Schedule 80 CPVC pipe is engineered for continuous service of 850 psi @ 73°F (23°C). The same pipe in service @ 180°F (82°C) carries a maximum working pressure rating of 210 psi at this temperature. 6" Schedule 80 CPVC pipe is designed for 270 psi @ 73°F, and 54 psi @ 200°F.

PVC Pipes & Fittings
PVC Pipes from Professional Plastics offer superior quality for a wide range of applications
Professional Plastics is an authorized distributor of premium Harvel brand PVC Pipe. Harvel uses its own custom blend of PVC compound to ensure that desirable physical properties are maintained with every production run. Harvel PVC piping exhibits exceptional consistent quality with uniform properties; making it the preferred choice of fabricators and custom houses. Harvel's product line has grown to include standard and custom extrusions of PVC pipe in schedules 40, 80, and 120; as well as SDR series pipe produced to 13.5, 21, 26 and 41 dimensions.
In addition to a full range of sizes, Harvel also offers various options including: belled end, gasketed, roll grooved, and threaded pipe ends, as well as custom dimensions and lengths. Harvel PVC pipe is ideal for numerous applications including chemical processing, high purity applications, water and waste water treatment, potable water systems, agricultural, irrigation, plating, and many other industrial applications involving corrosive fluid transfer.
For Higher Temperature requirements, Consider CPVC Pipe

just create flikr account..upload my master room toilet..

link tak jalan ah ?

i upload my master toilet before and after..all using ABS..just waiting ..for how long the ABS will leak...

if the joints are properly done won't leak one...

i see the sockets didnt put SS sockets later if next time u change don't over tighten else the abs threads will kena makan

i put Stainless steel socket to 1/2 inches...ya...SS need more white tape...one toilet kena already..after completed tiles, then leak..the tile had to break to tighthen the socket..i use ABS size 3/4 inches then used socket 1/2 inches

socket standard is all 1/2 inch unless need special reason to use big one eg connect to tank.. connect to pump connect o main valve..

3/4 inch pipe hmm usually the main one is 3/4 and the branch off is 1/2 inch only..

why your plumber choose abs and not poly or upvc or pvc ? his reasoning is ?

i dont hire plumber..i m the plumber..just hire indo..i m the supervisor..i design from A to Z...i thought that ABS is good since it is new.....until i experience it..that why i advised forumer donot use ABS....
i design my house from main using 1 1/4 inches pipe then branch out to 2 to 1 inches pipes..i got 4 tank2...2 at main house, 2 at new house..the reason i m using 3/4 inches in toilet is i hv sufficient water volume...

with all these design..my shower head need not any pump....no problem with water volume and pressure...

Would the ABS overkill for bathroom or others low pressure tap? I guess PVC cheaper than ABS right?

How you tiles the wall when the pipe not inside the brick?

i dont hire plumber..i m the plumber..just hire indo..i m the supervisor..i design from A to Z...i thought that ABS is good since it is new.....until i experience it..that why i advised forumer donot use ABS....
i design my house from main using 1 1/4 inches pipe then branch out to 2 to 1 inches pipes..i got 4 tank2...2 at main house, 2 at new house..the reason i m using 3/4 inches in toilet is i hv sufficient water volume...

with all these design..my shower head need not any pump....no problem with water volume and pressure...

But if you got hot water, from 3/4 to half in you got to wait 2 time longer for hot water to come out, waste a lot of water.

Main from meter is 3/4 inch pipe and at the meter it is 1/2 inch. No point having 1 1/4 then to 2 inch it wont increase pressure, waste big pipe and joints of big pipe is more expensive and dig deeper to tanam. It sholuld be 3/4 inch all the way till it branch out to every outlet point and 1 inch to pump and from pump you can use 1 inch and branch out to half inch to every outlet or from tank you can use big pipe since the pressure is low.

my design is like this...a bit difficult to explain...
from meter 1 1/4 inches pipe then branch out into 2 branches...i branch to water tank old house, other to water tank new house..each branch is 1 inches..in this way i do lose water volume when both to water tank at new and old house at simulatenously...

and i do not use pump...so far my toilet..water volume and pressure good...

so your land got 2 houses la.. is it ? kampung house or what.. why so nice can have 2 side by side one ?

my land space is big but the house itself is small..main house is only 23x43 (panjang)...so at the back of the house i extended the new house..so i dont disturb existing main house..cost i already budget..cause if want to renovated all..no budget...next if i got budget..then i renovated the main house..without disturbed the newly extended house...so my master bedroom is at the abck of the house.

my house land size is 50x100 feets

my house plan....  ...using Sweet Home 3D software.

Wow, big house. From the diagram it is bigger than 23x43 la. 4 rooms but can accommodate 6 cars!!!. You can have a lory + cars.

You know if you live in selangor you can get some free water I think 20 cu meter per house. when you have two houses in one you rugi 20 cu meter. Moreover the more you use the more expensive it is. That means you pay much more. And if you have two meter the pressure will not be constraint by one half in meter pipe. Two meter each with half inch means equal to one 3/4 inch pipe. Oh yes if you use PVC thick pipe the volume is smaller than it should be if you were to use other type of pipe like ABS or s/s or even coper and poly. This is especially so if it is half inch PVC class 7. So, considering the requirement of the thickness of the pipe wall to withstand pressure, ABS is better than PVC. So long as the pipe is not underground you cannot get acid like in the wall I think ABS is a better choice in these circumstances.

TQ steve8...the drawing i design for my front house is cater when i want to renovate my front house..there is no porch that can accommodate 6 cars yet..that my dream..hehehe...not start saving for my front house renovation....for my newly extension house at the back is attached to the existing front house...i did not apply new water meter. for my main pipe after meter using 1 1/4 inches pipe..then branches into two..the water volume and pressure is good..no drop of pressure.

I went to a hardware shop yesterday. The shopkeeper told me that it is better to use a very thin stanless steel pipe now availble, not the old usual thick one. It is cheaper than copper pipe and stronger and better in many ways compared to PVC, poly, ABS (in volume and strength, durability and easy fixing and to change screwing and unscrewing). The fittings/joint use copper compression fittings and outlet use stainless steel head. What you say?

SS fitting quite expensive compared to PVC, GI, Poly & ABS. Furthermore not all hardware shop is selling it.

Poly the bulky thing is not cheap either. GI you should forget about it unless you still want to live in caves (just joking). Of course when we do something we have to see what it is use for and decide what material is best for it. It is not ss, ss, ss like that. You should advise your hardware shop to get these for his customers lor what to do, everybody has to be alerted to progress. You help him he help you.

No la you mistaken. No, not using SS fittings. it use copper fittings. The "old" SS pipe is thick and expensive because it uses SS fittings that you have to make the pipe end with thread like GI pipe. to do that thread it has to be thick otherwise it will be too thin to take the pressure/weight of the compress fittings. Now with this thin ss, it has to use copper fittings. You see someone discovered why not use thin ss instead of expensive copper pipe by using copper ring compression fittings. Small idea great invention/discovery.